Are the cells taped together for compression? How are they secured?View attachment 191904
I'm building the heated 280Ah batteries for my camper. Bog standards are cheap, but when you start needing things like heat or larger capacity or the like, DIY is still the way to go.
Homemade box?View attachment 191904
I'm building the heated 280Ah batteries for my camper. Bog standards are cheap, but when you start needing things like heat or larger capacity or the like, DIY is still the way to go.
Me too.I just used mismatched dies. If 70 is a bit loose I use half a 70 and half a 50 (or whatever the next size down is).
Are you using a single shunt trip breaker or a core for each battery and multiple breakers?DIY forever.
Buy the best, leave the rest.Had a pair of hydraulic crimpers from Temco for a couple years. Same place most of my large gauge wire comes from. So far, no issue with wire quality or loose crimps. TEMCo Hydraulic Crimpers
Two levels of the fiber packing tape holds the cells together.Are the cells taped together for compression? How are they secured?
Noco Group 31 box from WallyWorld/Amazon. Not a lot of space in there for the larger lugs but some 2-1/8" nylon washers on the front to eat up some of the thread bought me some working room.Homemade box?
Surprisingly!!How hard could it be to build your own?
I remember that thread well, picked up a good bit from it. Made me want to start welding again.Two levels of the fiber packing tape holds the cells together.
Noco Group 31 box from WallyWorld/Amazon. Not a lot of space in there for the larger lugs but some 2-1/8" nylon washers on the front to eat up some of the thread bought me some working room.
View attachment 191960
Surprisingly!!
Use thinner steel!! Holy Krap 100+lb before cells HURT to move!I remember that thread well, picked up a good bit from it. Made me want to start welding again.
So what advantages do you get from going with the pouch cells over standard LFP prismatic boxes? Or is this just to play with pouch cells?I just started building a 200Ah 24V battery pack using pouch cells (3.7V) 7S12P
Rednecktek, I like these pouch cells for a number of reasons.So what advantages do you get from going with the pouch cells over standard LFP prismatic boxes?
Truth be told I treat everything as an experiment, a task, or a game. (that could explain my GF just moving out)Or is this just to play with pouch cells?
There is no shunt trip breaker at all. There are fuses on each battery, 1pc 250A breaker for the inverter, 3pcs 80A breaker for the charge controllers, 5pcs 63A circuit breakers for the solar panels. The BMS is connected in a way to be able to switch off charging through the 5 contactors and/or switch off discharging using CAN or the modified inverter power switch, whichever responds first.Are you using a single shunt trip breaker or a core for each battery and multiple breakers?
Rednecktek, I like these pouch cells for a number of reasons.
1) sweet specs for these cells.
Max Charge Rate 240A
Recommend MAX Continuous Discharge Rate 400A
Pulse Discharge Rate(3 seconds) 800A
Fully Charged voltage 4.2V
Discharge cut off voltage 2.5V
2) my inverter's cutout voltage is 21vdc, I can take 7S of these cells down to 20vdc without hurting them.
3) 24vdc 200Ah of these cells cost $600.
Truth be told I treat everything as an experiment, a task, or a game. (that could explain my GF just moving ou
May I ask for a link to where you purchased them? I am considering pouch cells for my rv.Rednecktek, I like these pouch cells for a number of reasons.
1) sweet specs for these cells.
Max Charge Rate 240A
Recommend MAX Continuous Discharge Rate 400A
Pulse Discharge Rate(3 seconds) 800A
Fully Charged voltage 4.2V
Discharge cut off voltage 2.5V
2) my inverter's cutout voltage is 21vdc, I can take 7S of these cells down to 20vdc without hurting them.
3) 24vdc 200Ah of these cells cost $600.
Truth be told I treat everything as an experiment, a task, or a game. (that could explain my GF just moving out)
johnebMay I ask for a link to where you purchased them?