diy solar

diy solar

SUNGOLD 10KW 48V SPLIT PHASE SOLAR INVERTER

**My Solar Exploits**

Just got my March Xcel bill (for electricity and natural gas)

Approximately the same weather/temps

Electricity this year (with my solar power system) $20.02 / 92 kWh - Last year $72.23 / 469 kWh
Natural gas this year $49.64 42 therms - last year $65.88 58 therms (I did keep the thermostat about the same but did use space heaters more this year)
 
**My Solar Exploits**

Just got my March Xcel bill (for electricity and natural gas)

Approximately the same weather/temps

Electricity this year (with my solar power system) $20.02 / 92 kWh - Last year $72.23 / 469 kWh
Natural gas this year $49.64 42 therms - last year $65.88 58 therms (I did keep the thermostat about the same but did use space heaters more this year)

So, 377kWh saved equals $52. 13c/kWh.
A $20 electrical bill would be awesome to me.

To feel better about this topic, I don't look at $ numbers, just at kWh billed:

January 2176 --> 1329
February 1901 --> 1008
March 1903 --> 611
April 1651 --> ??? my math predicts 542

That doesn't mean I made 1300kWh of solar in March. Far from it. It actually was only 553kWh. The other 750kWh stem from change of electric dryer to heat pump, and the hot tub was turned off until last week.
 
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No way to add one of these parallel to the old 10kW model? I guess not, since the RS232 style connection is missing on the old model.
I would think it’d need a board and a firmware change. I doubt we’ll ever have that. Not a huge deal for me.
I’m now ready for my two new batts arriving Tuesday.
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Final images of install. I am going to let it ride now and work on other projects. I made it through the entire night last night on batteries, first time that’s happened. Happy with everything so far, buss bar project worked out very well, I am proud of that. Cheers
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Looks very clean
Thanks. One thing I do like about the liquid tight lines (although by code they should be metal) is that I am keeping all my + - lines completely separated until reaching appliance or device. I feel like this reduces risks of faulty insulation, heat, or damage to wires that could result in a potential arc fault. I may upgrade to a wire raceway one day I guess, but for now I feel ok with it.
 
Thanks. One thing I do like about the liquid tight lines (although by code they should be metal) is that I am keeping all my + - lines completely separated until reaching appliance or device. I feel like this reduces risks of faulty insulation, heat, or damage to wires that could result in a potential arc fault. I may upgrade to a wire raceway one day I guess, but for now I feel ok with it.
My understanding is that best practice is to keep positive and negative cables pairs bundled together to minimize magnetic effects?
 
Final images of install. I am going to let it ride now and work on other projects. I made it through the entire night last night on batteries, first time that’s happened. Happy with everything so far, buss bar project worked out very well, I am proud of that. Cheers
View attachment 210272View attachment 210271

So are the wires from each battery to the white box in the middle of the same length? It seems it would be difficult due to the arrangement. But maybe possible with the curving that you have there.
 
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