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SunGold Power SP6548 Flickering lights after new install

That is a big cap, 20uF 350VAC, you should check the standby current draw before and after the cap is installed.
Agreed! that was my first question to their "engineer"... no response days later. I will absolutely check the draw. At that point the unit has lost any certification it had achieved and my inspector will never sign off on the install. I'll give it a go for completions sake of this thread.
 
Yep, the more I poked around the more I found that links them to MPP and Signature Solar as the OEM manufacturer. Also explains why they offered them as replacement options.
It's funny how people will find any possible way to drag Signature Solar into a discussion. In this case they have absolutely nothing to do with the junk you bought and you should issue a public apology for even attempting to link them to it.

Voltronic is the OEM manufacturer for your unit and so many different brands it will make your head spin. They build the units to the individual company specifications so it is unfair to compare identical looking units from the outside, as their internal components and build quality will differ depending on what MPP, EG4 etc spec in their designs.
 
It's funny how people will find any possible way to drag Signature Solar into a discussion. In this case they have absolutely nothing to do with the junk you bought and you should issue a public apology for even attempting to link them to it.

Voltronic is the OEM manufacturer for your unit and so many different brands it will make your head spin. They build the units to the individual company specifications so it is unfair to compare identical looking units from the outside, as their internal components and build quality will differ depending on what MPP, EG4 etc spec in their designs.
I said, they offered that unit as a replacement! You will get no apology since your statement was strictly inflammatory. You want to come in a month later, tell people that are having issues they bought junk and expect me to be ok with that.. go bark up another righteous tree and let people solve their issues without the nonsense.
 
Pretty sure the Growatt 6000T has a pair of sizable caps across it's output too.
Not sure how I feel about parking that amount of capacitance across my AC output.
 
Well, as I told them you can not fit anything into the lugs when you use 4ga per the manual. Had to use 90deg ring terminals and attach it to the upper outlet screws. This means it hangs, not ideal. Idle power consumption increased and varies between 0 and 5W, tolerable.
Quickly checked the lights, the Lutron dimmers still act the same, flicker badly. The newer ceiling fan with the title 5 bulbs is 80% better. The older ceiling fans with the same bulbs, flicker regardless of dimmer position. Standard fixtures with constant on LED's flicker much less. I would give this "fix" a 3 out of 10. Unit is now usable as long as you do not have dimmers. But, in my case it seems like they just sent a part out without even validating if it fixes the issue.
At this point I am done investing time and money into this. I will live with it until it dies and needs replacement. Still stand by my previous statement of do not purchase this unit as they are not shipping with the cap installed and it's effect is minimal especially if you have led's on dimmers.
 
Well, as I told them you can not fit anything into the lugs when you use 4ga per the manual. Had to use 90deg ring terminals and attach it to the upper outlet screws. This means it hangs, not ideal. Idle power consumption increased and varies between 0 and 5W, tolerable.
Quickly checked the lights, the Lutron dimmers still act the same, flicker badly. The newer ceiling fan with the title 5 bulbs is 80% better. The older ceiling fans with the same bulbs, flicker regardless of dimmer position. Standard fixtures with constant on LED's flicker much less. I would give this "fix" a 3 out of 10. Unit is now usable as long as you do not have dimmers. But, in my case it seems like they just sent a part out without even validating if it fixes the issue.
At this point I am done investing time and money into this. I will live with it until it dies and needs replacement. Still stand by my previous statement of do not purchase this unit as they are not shipping with the cap installed and it's effect is minimal especially if you have led's on dimmers.
You can get similar cap from Amazon for 6 bucks, 2 pack. My LVX6048 does the same when there is lots of solar coming in. When solar not produced at night my lights do not flicker. I don't use lights during the day anyhow so it does not affect me, except my heat pump does not like it. I will need an inverter just for the heat pump. It's what we have to deal with when we buy cheap Chinese inverters.
 
This happens all the time, not just with solar input. Thinking of going Victron if this really drives us nuts.
 
Well, I installed CREE bulbs from Amazon. No more flicker from my variable speed heat pump on the bathroom 6 LED's!!!

Now domething new...my Sol-Ark 12K's shut down when I start my Dewalt circular saw. But a 2000W hospital backup power supply and my new EG4 6500ex runs it good. How ridiculous. It's always something. ??‍???
This is common but the people that point this failure out about solark especially folks like David Poz get attacked by the solark fan boys. Solark is a good inverter as it's made by deye which makes good inverters but it has a problem with shutting down when getting a imbalance. I believe it's bens solar on youtube, he installs solark and is the one who will actually admit this. The solution...to parallel a auto transformer inline to balance the loads.
 
This is common but the people that point this failure out about solark especially folks like David Poz get attacked by the solark fan boys. Solark is a good inverter as it's made by deye which makes good inverters but it has a problem with shutting down when getting a imbalance. I believe it's bens solar on youtube, he installs solark and is the one who will actually admit this. The solution...to parallel a auto transformer inline to balance the loads.
I have not seen any verified imbalance issues. My 15k definitely doesn't have that issue.
 
I have not seen any verified imbalance issues. My 15k definitely doesn't have that issue.
For one I believe they've improved it from the 8k/12k models. And second, the higher output helps to overcome this on loads that would otherwise cause the inverter to shut down. This issue is documented pretty well on the net. Even when people ran tests on a bench with the loads being balanced it still had this issue.
 
For what they charge the below 15k model needs to be fixed. Even my lvx doesn't have that issue.
 
I have been running my pair of SP6548 for a week now on our AC unit....and it handles it fabulously.
They can start it with the water heater on too. So they may have a shitty output quality but boy can they shift some amps !!!
 
IMO Sol Ark is overrated. Sure it has a nice feature set, but it has the balance issues, costs a ton, and frankly the business is a little misleading at best (USA they say, but it is made in China.) Meh.
 
IMO Sol Ark is overrated. Sure it has a nice feature set, but it has the balance issues, costs a ton, and frankly the business is a little misleading at best (USA they say, but it is made in China.) Meh.
Exactly, which is why I think deye should tell them to pound sand and use anti trust laws to sell to distributors like SS and watts/247 for example. Solark doesn't want them to sell any of their lineup here in the US but has no issues with them selling to the rest of the world. That tells me it's not just a IP related thing..it's greed.
 
IMO Sol Ark is overrated. Sure it has a nice feature set, but it has the balance issues, costs a ton, and frankly the business is a little misleading at best (USA they say, but it is made in China.) Meh.
Yup. Even with my LVX issues it's still cheaper for me to buy a smaller inverter just to run the heat pump. for 8.5k I can buy a lot of chinese inverters. Oh wait they are all made in China.
 
This is common but the people that point this failure out about solark especially folks like David Poz get attacked by the solark fan boys. Solark is a good inverter as it's made by deye which makes good inverters but it has a problem with shutting down when getting a imbalance. I believe it's bens solar on youtube, he installs solark and is the one who will actually admit this. The solution...to parallel a auto transformer inline to balance the loads.
That is the first glitch in 6 months, so I'm very happy with them. I don't mind telling everyone its faults. It's like anything or even people, there are pluses and minuses. We just have decide how much we want to spend. whats important to us and what were willing to put up with. I know now not to run that saw. I think it is some type of interference more than the inrush. I was at my power shed 120v outlet. I'll try it further away next time. When I plugged it into the hospital grade backup UPS with filters, it was plugged in and passing 120V through to my saw. My 12K current/voltage indications were rock steady. The two times I did get it started plugged into my reg circuits, the voltage and current indications were jumping up and down. Anyway, no sugar coating it, but my house loads are well balanced in my 40 space panel and I don't try to put two or three electric heaters on one hot leg either. I've pulled 17,000W out of the two so far. 18,000W max. Keep enjoying the sun's power we've already paid for in advance and our little hobby.

I decided to build 10 batteries (143kWh) with 8 brands of BMS's, 4 different sellers cells for the house system and now installing my shop system using EG4 6500ex. I wanted to be able to compare them and give true test results. I don't work for any of them and no freebies. I just want a product or system that is built good, easy to install, easy to set up, easy to monitor, includes good customer service and doesn't leave me in the dark six times per year, like the 75 yr old grid power did.
 
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That is the first glitch in 6 months, so I'm very happy with them. I don't mind telling everyone its faults. It's like anything or even people, there are pluses and minuses. We just have decide how much we want to spend. whats important to us and what were willing to put up with. I know now not to run that saw. I think it is some type of interference more than the inrush. I was at my power shed 120v outlet. I'll try it further away next time. When I plugged it into the hospital grade backup UPS with filters, it was plugged in and passing 120V through to my saw. My 12K current/voltage indications were rock steady. The two times I did get it started plugged into my reg circuits, the voltage and current indications were jumping up and down. Anyway, no sugar coating it, but my house loads are well balanced in my 40 space panel and I don't try to put two or three electric heaters on one hot leg either. I've pulled 17,000W out of the two so far. 18,000W max. Keep enjoying the sun's power we've already paid for in advance and our little hobby.
I hear you and each to their own but it's a know issue with the inverter internally regardless of how well balanced your loads are. You should be able to start a simple saw for how much that cost. As I mentioned some people including "bens solar" which is a licensed installer noted this and the way they solved their issue was to install a auto transformer. If you want you can find this all on youtube.

 
I hear you and each to their own but it's a know issue with the inverter internally regardless of how well balanced your loads are. You should be able to start a simple saw for how much that cost. As I mentioned some people including "bens solar" which is a licensed installer noted this and the way they solved their issue was to install a auto transformer. If you want you can find this all on youtube.

Yeah, I've watched them. Thank you though. I don't need one as it never faults with anything else in my home or garage. I run an all electric home, 6.25 tons of 16-33 SEER heat pumps, 80 gal water heater, standard speedqueen washer/dryer, with the heat kits disabled by a toggle switch on the low voltage. I don't want the extra parasitic load. I have four other power sources (eg4's, generac 10kW, hospital power supply- 2000W, Magnum- 4000W that I can run that saw with.
 

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