Best 280-304 to buy right now?

Tom1962 said:

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

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Regarding the fridge, I'm in the same boat as you.
I've decided for a 230v AC instead of a DC one.
Reasoning: the price difference will allow an extra one if this one goes bad, and extra funds for upgrading the electrical side.
Also if you look closely to both spec sheets (AC one and DC one), even considering the inverter (in)efficiency, the difference is not that huge, and easily offset with some extra solar.
Just my 2 cents...

pau1phi11ips said:

I've got 600W solar, 7kWh 24V battery and a 3000W Multiplus II inverter. We cook on a dual induction hob from IKEA. It was pretty cheap if you don't already have one.

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I'm quite interested in your setup, how it's doing, and latitudes you're using it, as I'm buying stuff to do something similar.

I've got 1200w solar (though only 800w permanent as the third panel will be retractable), same(ish) battery size also at 24v, and a 5000w Multiplus II.

Main consumers will be a double induction cooktop (also looking very closely to the IKEA one), microwave, fridge and possibly a multi split AC (already bought, but undecided how to mount it)

Do you have more info / layouts/ wiring diagrams of your van?

Thanks in advance

SolaroSsaurius said:

I'm quite interested in your setup, how it's doing, and latitudes you're using it, as I'm buying stuff to do something similar.

I've got 1200w solar (though only 800w permanent as the third panel will be retractable), same(ish) battery size also at 24v, and a 5000w Multiplus II.

Main consumers will be a double induction cooktop (also looking very closely to the IKEA one), microwave, fridge and possibly a multi split AC (already bought, but undecided how to mount it)

Do you have more info / layouts/ wiring diagrams of your van?

Thanks in advance

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The setup has be great in UK, France, Germany Poland.

The 7kWh battery lasted nearly 2 weeks Easter 2022 with only 300W of solar and 1 hours worth of driving per day (DC-DC charger) but it was exceptionally sunny!

It is so much better with 600W.

Can see most of the setup here before it was boxed in:

I left space for a second DC-DC charger but haven't felt the need for it in last 2 years.

pau1phi11ips said:

The setup has be great in UK, France, Germany Poland.

The 7kWh battery lasted nearly 2 weeks Easter 2022 with only 300W of solar and 1 hours worth of driving per day (DC-DC charger) but it was exceptionally sunny!

It is so much better with 600W.

Can see most of the setup here before it was boxed in:

Boxer power system

4 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

I left space for a second DC-DC charger but didn't feel the need for it in 2 years.

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Thanks!
The top right Orion... is it for 24v to 12v conversation?
I was meant to also use 2 Orion for 12v to 24v but you got me thinking...

Yeah, top Orion is a 24V to 12V and feeds the smaller fuse box. That's pretty much just used for the MaxxAir fan tbh.

Fridge, lights, pumps, diesel heater, USB chargers, 4G router are all running off the 24V system.

pau1phi11ips said:

I've got a Dometic CRX50, it works on 12 or 24V

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Can these be found at a competitive price somewhere / somehow?

Tom1962 said:

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

Click to expand...

Inverters take power even at idle. A DC powered fridge only draws power when it is running. Many times at night, my shunt goes dark because there isn't a draw on the batteries.

One more thing about a fridge/freezer for an RV with limited PV/battery capacity. An upright fridge is not as efficient as a chest type because the cold air will gravitate to the floor when the door is open on the upright. This does not occur with a chest type.

I run a Dometic CFX95 with it split as a freezer/fridge. We can easily get 2 weeks of food stored in it. Just returned from a 2.5 week trip and had plenty of food left over. The 7.5 cu ft fridge you mention will probably be overkill. As fridge size increases, the surface area also increases which allows more heat load to be passed thru the walls. That takes energy to remove.

Coydon said:

Can these be found at a competitive price somewhere / somehow?

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I got mine 2 years ago. Seems most things are about 20% more expensive these days