Search results

Data sheet says not to exceed 8nm. I have just now found one of my studs is stripped and only using 5nm. they need welded studs. these shallow small gauge studs are useless.

I have 280ah eve cells with m6 grub screw studs. I have been using 5nm of torque on the nut and the stud itself i just finger tight with a hex key. 4nm seems to loose while if i try to reach 6nm i get a few turns past firm and it dont seem to get any tighter and it feels like its not going to...

I emailed mppsolar, sorry the transcript is upside down> New message from: maximum_solar (6,683) I know what you're saying. It was designed this way because a few years back on the earlier generation models they could work this way, and in the end Mpp solar end up with a lot of...

My 3024MSE is doing the same thing. inverter is set to 24v switch to bypass. but it keeps charging the battery till it hits 24.5v and goes back to battery mode and repeat even though i have it set to OSO in the settings. Not happy.

So since midi has 5000a AIC and Amg has 2000a AIC then after your main class t fuse on the battery which fuse would you use as a main on each fuse bank. For example 150a fuse? Since both midi and amg have a 150a option. I was going to use a AMG as the main fuse on a bank of midi fuses but it...

so since midi has 5000a AIC and Amg has 2000a AIC then after your class t fuse on the battery which fuse would you use as a main on each fuse bank. For example 150a fuse? Since both midi and amg have a 150a option.

If you have a class T as the main fuse. For al the smaller load bank and such does it then matter what AIC those fuses have? Like if you have a class t on battery to a fuse block with amg or anl or midi fuses? I'm now wondering if one of them pops will it arv untill the main fuse pops in the...

If you have a class T as the main fuse. For al the smaller load bank and such does it then matter what AIC those fuses have? Like if you have a class t on battery to a fuse block with amg or anl or midi fuses? I'm now wondering if one of them pops will it arv untill the main fuse pops in the...

I can not seem to find anywhere what the actual fault current of the eve 280ah cells is. I would like to know if an anl fuse is actually enough or not.

Update. the new Bluetooth module with activate button. Works. Why don't daly just include the BT or Light Board and state the button is needed for activation instead of people having to purchase separate and wasting time trying to activate with the other methods that don't work a lot of the time.

They said they would send correct bms. no charge. So i guess that is actually pretty good.

2 weeks ago purchased a jbd 8s 100a bms from them and payed extra for dhl post as needed it soon. Just got the bms and they sent a 4s version. :mad: Funny thing is i read your comment only the day before i got the bms and was like o crap i hope mine is ok. Launched dispute but if past...

Welp cant believe i never noticed this but one light board button pin is gone. and its not in the ligt board plug so its been gone the whole time from factory. daly as usual is just giving me the brick wall circle loop of useless responses. since i already had a failed dispute i cant lodge...

I was thinking of using the BS-7717B model as i need 24v.

looking at using the same 24v remote battery switch. so i can just couple the signal wire from a positive supply through the sbms0 and done?

.

I could never wake it up with charge or discharge ether.

I did launch a dispute over all the issues i had with it. sadly it ended with a $6 refund and closed so now i cant launch another as far as i know.

Just spoke to Daly and they have a bluetooth module now with activate button. so for $10 i have ordered one and hopefully the button works unlike the light board. and hopefully makes life easier next time the bms decides to be a PITA

I payed $600Au for the 8s 400a bms so Not saving money at all, there are sadly no other options in that current range that i know of that are higher quality if there were id happily pay $1000 for something rock solid reliable. Daly has said light board should activate bms if in sleep mode but...

I have timer set to 15300s which i read somewhere is infinate. Also the light board button has never worked to turn the unit on. i only use it to see if the bms is active since the lights come on when it is. It's only usefull since bluetooth and uart wont work when its not active.

New issues......... So it seems randomly the bms is shutting off as in un activating? Two days ago my battery was sitting on the bench not connected to anything and fully charged and active. i come back to it today and its off with no bluetooth, the light board off, nothing. voltage on inlet and...

Tempted on supercaps. Put simply my if all my circuits are at max and my inverter is running at surge 2x rating i will hit almost 400a. will never happen but i guess being ocd i'm trying to ensure the battery can handle it for as long as it would take for the inverter to cut out or fuses blow...

Hey. I tried to find an answer in the threads but no luck. I know the 280ah eve cells are rated 1c continuous but is there a peak discharge rating for a small period of time? Could they handle 400a for say 30 seconds without damage? Thanks.

Its like last page of the top menu options. Where reset and reboot etc are from memory. It does sound like the mosfetts are off in any random combo. Make sure settings match up too like total max voltage isnt way lower than max cell voltage added up example nothing conflicting.

i have had that. turn the output mosfet off then on. it shows on but its not actually on. it happens sometimes when changing settings or plying around with the bms. i can see it in the app etc but no powers coming out.

Daly have said to me pointing out the 3.65v high cell disconnect in my screen shot to discharge battery down and then try activate bms. sounds stupid to me since we top balance to 3.6v-3.65v then assemble the pack but i did notice at one point the high voltage default on my bms was 3.5v. may...

I also tried a hobby charger. but as the mosfet's are off it would not charge. i even tried jumping across the leads to get it to start charging and then disconnect hoping it would have enough voltage to then acivate and continue through the p- lead but no and the charger just turned off.

yes temp sensor needs to be in also. before balance leads. don't know about the lightboard. the button does not seem to do anything.

Shorting leads did not work for me. nor did the light board button. nor did resistance check. nor did charging activate it. on my 8s 400a smart bms what did work was. install balance leads to battery including neg ontop of a short neg cable, plug balance lead into bms then use diode mode between...

yes i have found the response from daly to be well.... useless. i present issues and all i get is the same 2 questions back. stuck in a loop. Sounds like then your unit is faulty. i tried all the online methods that i am now sure were for the older or non smart models and none worked, even...

i have heard it can work. but not 100% sure. i guess try it. you could also try disconnect everything. then connect b- lead then connect balance lead then try diode mode or 9v battery between b- and p-. also make sure temp sensor is plugged in as i read it will not activate if temp sensor is not...

mine is 9v meter. i have heard meters that use aa or aaa might not work.

yes my light board when i ended up getting one does light up when it becomes active. use diode mode. it applies a little voltage across the leads. shorting them did not work for me.