Anl fuses vs ????

[pda1]

My system's a 2kw (soon to be 2.5kW) charging two Battleborn batteries in series- (100ah)

I've been using Windynation ANL fuse holders and ANL fuses. So far, no over heating and no problems.
It seems that the windynation holders are just lightweight plastic.

Any recommendation for a good fuse holder and better fuses (it seems ANL's aren't favored in solar).

Thanks

Peter

 

[42OhmsPA]

For a 24v system any of these should be fine.

DC Fuses & Fuse Holders | Current Connected

Discover premium Fuses and Fuse Holders from trusted brands like Victron and LittelFuse for ultimate electrical system protection.

www.currentconnected.com

You could also consider brand name Class T fuses; AltE, donrowe, NAZ, etc should have them in stock.

 

[chrisski]

I recommend Blue Sea class T fuses.

Class T fuses have a high AIC rating so when it blows, arcing across the fuse won’t happen. Also has a low resistance so it will not heat up.

A circuit breaker can have high AIC, but some can heat up, especially if the wire is not installed correctly.

There’s a couple type of ANL fuses and the ABYCC can rate some for main battery disconnect, but that was for lead acid battery types. These ABYCC rated fuses are not the cheap ones. I used ABYCCrated ANL fuses for lead acid.

Something tells me you knew this though.

 

[Tomthumb62]

My system's a 2kw (soon to be 2.5kW) charging two Battleborn batteries in series- (100ah)

I've been using Windynation ANL fuse holders and ANL fuses. So far, no over heating and no problems.
It seems that the windynation holders are just lightweight plastic.

Any recommendation for a good fuse holder and better fuses (it seems ANL's aren't favored in solar).

Thanks

Peter

For a 24v system any of these should be fine.

DC Fuses & Fuse Holders | Current Connected

Discover premium Fuses and Fuse Holders from trusted brands like Victron and LittelFuse for ultimate electrical system protection.

www.currentconnected.com

You could also consider brand name Class T fuses; AltE, donrowe, NAZ, etc should have them in stock.

My limited understanding is the the MEGA fuses recommended on the Current Connected page are of similar quality/protection as ANL fuses. They even look physically similar. For a larger 48v system, the expense of a Class-T fuse makes a lot of sense. But for a 100-200Ah 12v or 24v battery, the Class-T fuses seem overkill. Better, yes, but not exactly necessary. Put the money you would into a Class-T fuse setup instead into better components and wiring and you will reduce your chances of needing to rely on such a fuse (but DO use some kind of fuse!)

 

[pda1]

It seems that a combination MEGA fuses and Class T would be suited for my situation. So, tell me if this is right wrong;

For Lifepo4 battery protection (THE battery fuse) use a Class T
For Inverter/charger (in my case- Multiplus compact 24-2000) use a Class T

What would you recommend for fusing the output of the MPPT? I'm using #6 wire for that situation.

Thanks again

 

[42OhmsPA]

Nothing wrong with using a class T in both places but it's overkill, in my opinion. I'd put one on the battery and use an alternate on the inverter.
I'd use a circuit breaker after the mppt and fuses along with disconnects on the panel string(s).

I do not consider myself an expert by any means, just regurgitating what I've absorbed here over the past year and a half.

Other members that are true experts in the field will chime in, you can also use the search feature as well similar similar threads feature (keep scrolling down until you see them).

 

[pda1]

Nothing wrong with using a class T in both places but it's overkill, in my opinion. I'd put one on the battery and use an alternate on the inverter.
I'd use a circuit breaker after the mppt and fuses along with disconnects on the panel string(s).

I do not consider myself an expert by any means, just regurgitating what I've absorbed here over the past year and a half.

Other members that are true experts in the field will chime in, you can also use the search feature as well similar similar threads feature (keep scrolling down until you see them).

Ok....I'll give Class T a try. I hope they're presently available and not the junky ones either- the stories below (Similar threads) were worth reading.

My panels (2S4P) are fused at the combiner box mounted near the rack.

Before the MPPT, in the house, I use a 250A battery shutoff switch on the plus wire only. Maybe that's a bad idea? It would be nice to cut both lines just before the MPPT.

The output of the MPPT feeds a 60A ANL fuse on the plus side. From what I've just read that's probably not a good idea to use ANL there.

I'm very suspicious of circuit breakers. Too many bad stories have been told about them- especially the unpronounceable named ones purchased from AliExpress or Alibaba or even Amazon.

Another note- none of the wiring in my system has ever gotten warm to the touch or even hot and sometimes the system has been generating 1.2kW for over an hour.

Again, I'm looking for recommendations. I'd rather spend a good amount on safety devices than to wish I had.

Thanks, fellas

 

[pda1]

Would this one be a proper choice for a battery fuse holder? What fuse size should I get? Present "battery to fuse" wires are #2 and are about 2 feet long.

Blue Sea Class T holder

Again, I have 2 Battleborn batteries in series providing 24v-100ah

 

[42OhmsPA]

It's good to be suspicious and do your homework.
From what I've read Midnite Solar sells a quality breaker.

I think it's a great idea to have a battery disconnect, I'm currently trying to find one that is rated for 60V...

The blue sea fuse block you linked is quality equipment, I'm using the same ones. Check Donrowe, the should still have the complete package in stock.

Iirc / understand correctly you fuse to protect the wire which is sized appropriately for the current it will be carrying.

 

[pda1]

I called Battleborn and they recommended a mega fuse at the battery. Not a Class-T.

I just upgraded, so to speak, my system- put all controls in a steel cabinet, a 200a battery fuse located about 7" from the battery (Blue Seas fuse holder(s). Bolted the cabinet to the concrete block wall. It's pretty rugged. The batteries aren't located in the cabinet.

 

[webbbn]

I'm very suspicious of circuit breakers. Too many bad stories have been told about them- especially the unpronounceable named ones purchased from AliExpress or Alibaba or even Amazon.

Not trusting way off brand anything from Ali-whatever is a good thing, but can you link to any bad stories about UL-listed breakers? All I can find is videos showing no-name breakers failing, which is just clickbait IMO. We trust AC circuit breakers everyday, but I doubt the circuit breakers in your house were purchased off Alibaba, and I bet they're UL-listed.

If we stopped trusting a whole class of products because someone showed one catching fire on YouTube, we'd be sitting in a field in our underwear. Probably not even that, because I bet there's a YT video somewhere with underwear spontaneously combusting!

 

[Rednecktek]

Ok....I'll give Class T a try. I hope they're presently available and not the junky ones either- the stories below (Similar threads) were worth reading.

The only place I was able to find Class-T fuses in the 150a range was at DonRowe.com. It showed up unlike my previous 3 attempts over a couple years to buy one at other places so that's about as good a recommendation as I can give. It seems like the fuse holder physically changes for anything over 200a or so and that's fine if you need a 400a fuse, but anything smaller was a nightmare.

 

[scrubjaysnest]

I've have Midnight solar breakers since 2012 between the panels and pwm cc. No problems. Current RV uses breakers, look like many you see on Amazon. Lever to rest and button to test. They have been in service for 7 years with no problems.
My experience with cartridge type fuses over the last 50 years is failures waiting to happen.
Limited experience with mrbf and anl has been good with no failures.

 

[Sennen]

MRBF, ANL, Mega, Class T all allow for "surge" amperage. You can temporarily pull more than the fuse is rated for.

ANN fuses are fast acting at their rated amperage.

Depending on code in your area, ANN might be the requirement (if code verbiage mentions "limiter"). Fits in standard ANL holder. Code would indicate rating the fuse to the wire.

If your local code doesn't mention limiters, any of the above mentioned fuses will suffice. Pay attention to AIC, especially with larger banks as the fuse blowing may not prevent the gap being arced under heavy load.