Alkaline
Solar Wizard
So Spainard, you going to show what is underneath the black covering near the qr codes or not?
lets stay nice alkalineSo Spainard, you going to show what is underneath the black covering near the qr codes or not?
Down boy down boy ?So Spainard, you going to show what is underneath the black covering near the qr codes or not?
?Down boy down boy ?
thanks for the input!Just wanted to encourage anyone on the fence about ordering from Docan / Amy Zheng to go ahead and take the plunge. My experience was perfect. Amy (amy@docanpower.com) was very helpful and responsive. I was a little sketched out about the prospect of initiating a PayPal payment to "energy2021@yeah.net", but after seeing that address mentioned in another thread, I went for it.
I ordered four EVE LF280K cells from the Houston warehouse (total cost: $567.00), and received them in central Ohio only 3 days later. The cells were packaged extremely well and arrived without a scratch. The codes indicate all cells are genuine and were manufactured on the same day, a little over half a year ago. And what really topped it off is that all four cells measured the exact same voltage, to the THOUSANDTH: 3.298V.
Overall I'm very impressed, and just wanted to encourage anyone that was in my position about a week ago. The price was better than anywhere else I could find, and the product literally could not be of higher quality. I hope to order many more cells for friends and clients in the future.
One great test is to try and pull .5c for 30 min then check the cell voltages.
I would need to figure out how to consistently pull a set amount like .5c, and how to even measure that in the first place. That is interesting though. How accurate are the results from a test like that? Do you just compare energy used to the percentage change?
That's a good point, I had forgotten my BMS would be capable of such things. How accurate do BMS readouts tend to be?You need a battery tester specifically to do this, like a ZKE. I wouldn't. Put it in a battery, charge it, balance it, and put a load on it and use the BMS read-out as an estimate.
So they sand off the original QR code with the 'B' and replace it with the same QR code without the 'B'.
Thing is, if they would just have been honest about the 'B' cells and sell them as such, people wouldn't have had an issue. Doing this however...
And this is also why OP had that backlash - just wrong timing.
A good tool would be a shunt more accurate than the bms and probably the best way overall to monitor the battery think of it as your gas gage I put them on all my systemsThat's a good point, I had forgotten my BMS would be capable of such things. How accurate do BMS readouts tend to be?
This explains a tremendous amount. Thank you
Could something like this double as a capacity tester if set up correctly? I was thinking it might be quite useful to monitor the DC outflow of a system.A good tool would be a shunt more accurate than the bms and probably the best way overall to monitor the battery think of it as your gas gage I put them on all my systems
I would need to figure out how to consistently pull a set amount like .5c, and how to even measure that in the first place.
That would work the only limitation is the fact that it only has a hundred amp capacity there are larger ones like the victron that'll go 500 or 1000 if you're going to leave it in the system as a constant monitoring I would go with a higher amperage capacity there's also some other brands on Amazon in the $70 range that are decent and I believe they're 350 amp you might check them out but yes that will work well for you just for your testCould something like this double as a capacity tester if set up correctly? I was thinking it might be quite useful to monitor the DC outflow of a system.
This is how I’d test it, fire up the heat gun, coffee maker, toaster oven and such. Toss the “kitchen sink” at the battery and see how it behaves.You need a battery tester specifically to do this, like a ZKE. I wouldn't. Put it in a battery, charge it, balance it, and put a load on it and use the BMS read-out as an estimate.
Any BMS worth buying will be able to tell you the current demand of the load, no clamp meter needed.What I typically see people doing to do this kind of test is to hook the battery up to a load and measure the amount of current passing through one of the battery cables with a clamp meter that is rated for more than the number of amps you'd expect to test. Or you could use a shunt battery monitor instead of a clamp meter.
Often the "load" is an inverter with enough devices (such as a series of incandescent/halogen lights until the clamp meter reaches the draw you're looking for. If you're building a 12.8V 104Ah battery, your 0.5C rate would be 52 Amps, so hook enough devices up to the inverter until your clamp meter reads at or close to 52A.