You'd save yourself a lot of trouble and just get the proper/safer holder and reputable fuse: https://www.donrowe.com/TFB1-200-200A-Class-T-Fuse-Kit-p/tfb1-200.htm
Not in stock until next month.
Not in stock until next month.
You'd save yourself a lot of trouble and just get the proper/safer holder and reputable fuse: https://www.donrowe.com/TFB1-200-200A-Class-T-Fuse-Kit-p/tfb1-200.htm
Not in stock until next month.
I actually ordered a spare T fuse from Mouser on Mar 7 since they made it look like it was available but I am still waiting.. they claim next month as well. I had been getting updates and last month it was "in production".This is exactly what I ordered. But like you said, out of stock for another month.
I looked at mouser but donrowe makes it way easier.
Best I could tell was that hey had yellow clips.What exactly does "ignition protection" mean on those blue seas fuses?
They enclose the fuse section in a little plastic section of the cover. The idea being that if operating in an explosive atmosphere, the blowing of the fuse may cause an ignition of that small enclosed space. The clips stop the cover flying off and a larger ignition of vapors.What exactly does "ignition protection" mean on those blue seas fuses?
Unless it's air tight, not going to make a difference. Especially for me, where my fuse is inside my battery case.They enclose the fuse section in a little plastic section of the cover. The idea being that if operating in an explosive atmosphere, the blowing of the fuse may cause an ignition of that small enclosed space. The clips stop the cover flying off and a larger ignition of vapors.
Given that LFP cells can vent significant qtys of Hydrogen gas upon failure I would recommend the ignition protected versions.
Typical automotive battery starter cables are only built to handle high current loads for a few seconds or minutes at most. You will be better served with either welding cable with properly crimped on terminals or at least buy from a company that sells cables designed for inverter usage.It is actually. Didn't seem to be anything wrong with it.
So I'm looking around this forum randomly and I read somewhere of someone using an IR camera to look for hotspots in their system. I though that's a great idea. I already have one of those. Let's see how everything is doing.
View attachment 221187
Oh hello. What have we here?
Well this isn't good.
View attachment 221188
I know what you're thinking. You're thinking I didn't tighten it down enough or I didn't crimp it correctly. But you would be wrong. The lugs are still torqued down and the wires won't come out with a decent amount of force.
View attachment 221193
Around the beginning of the year I got some cheap class t fuses from Amazon. I figured they were better than nothing while I was researching things. But now I think I would have been better off not including these.
The system was still functioning normally but obviously I can't just leave it like this so I shut it all down and remove all the melted things.
Then something odd happens which it's possible it's a coincidence, the MPPTs on the inverter stopped working. Also the inverter doesn't work unless I shutdown the batteries. On top of this the inverter is an SGP IP6048 so getting a replacement is going to be like pulling teeth. I'm probably better off fixing it myself.
I do have some reputable class t's coming in from donrowe.com.
I have both sizes, there is a tiny amount of captive air - the plastic completly surrounds the fuse. Unless the environment was explosive when the fuse was installed it is ignition safe, which means in an explosive hydrocarbon environment if it blows and a spark escapes the fuse itself it WILL NOT ignite the hydrocarbons in the air.Unless it's air tight, not going to make a difference. Especially for me, where my fuse is inside my battery case.
I see. Now it's making sense.Basically the bolt isn't designed to be a current carrying device, it's there to hold the fuse and lug surfaces together. The bolts have got so hot due to the high resistance that the entire plastic fuse holder seems to have melted away.
Who makes this one?
Blue Sea.Who makes this one?
That is the bottom part of the Blue sea ignition safe ones. See the linked post from the house burned down threadWho makes this one?
A man of my own heart, “I save each penny I can, then order 5 extra for spares to save on shipping”I would agree with most here , copper to copper with NO-OX-ID A-Special
is best practice. Anything else is a nogo unless it is silver.
I like to squeeze a dollar until it yells uncle
So
I bought my blue sea class t fuse holders here.
Search: 5 results found for "BLUE SEA SYSTEMS CLASS T FUSE"
We make renewable energy more accessible for homes and businesses by providing quality solar power system components, including solar panels, solar power invertwww.continuousresources.com
And I bought my blue sea class t fuses from electricalhub as continuous resources didn't have the 250 amp fuses I wanted in stock.
Search results for: 'blue sea class t fuse'
www.electricalhub.com
I called both companies before ordering as it was my first time ordering from them and it was easy to get a human on the line and fast shipping.
I bought 5 of each so with shipping it was a good deal ,YMMV.
Yes, if you can't make you own at least get something of quality like windy nation via Amazon:Another example of proper lugs, and being able to make your own custom cable/terminations are key.
late to this thread but..
I clicked on the amazon link, and at the top it says "last purchased April 1st, 2023"
yes, I have the same one in the same housing in my 24V system.
The PHEV is charging right now, which means 1400W AC are used, and about 60A flow through this class T.
I took my IR camera, but there's nothing warm except the inverter. Lowest temp in the photo is 68F, the inverter is at 87F.
My lugs are smaller, so I did not need any washers.