diy solar

diy solar

Big Battery 24v A123

Better the 50% have failed.
I haven't had much luck with any power supply long term. Assuming they are disposable my latest strategy is to enhance the power supplies I have with another buck converter until I am down to the minimum and then reassess then because my needs will be different in the future.
I am avoiding buck/boost because of the complexity and because most of my power supplies are larger than most of my needs so I don't need boost. Did you notice any difference in failure rate of buck/boost vs buck?.
 
I haven't had much luck with any power supply long term. Assuming they are disposable my latest strategy is to enhance the power supplies I have with another buck converter until I am down to the minimum and then reassess then because my needs will be different in the future.
I am avoiding buck/boost because of the complexity and because most of my power supplies are larger than most of my needs so I don't need boost. Did you notice any difference in failure rate of buck/boost vs buck?.

I just realized my buck/boost converters were not drok.
1 of 2 drok boost converters failed and the other goes into bypass when the output voltage is too low.
1 of 1 buck converters failed dead short on the input side.
I would like to revise my position to all the cheap buck, boost and buck/boost converters I've tried have been crappy.
 
I have never been one to buy into "disposable" equipment, but for the cost of this digital programmable CC CV buck converter, it is certainly worth what it costs if I can use it for a few projects before it dies.

Like any other piece of very cheap equipment, just use it to half rated power, and it will likely last a fairly long time. Have a fuse on both the input and output so it can't do too much damage to anything else you are using it with. A good proper bench supply with the same ratings is 10 times the price.
 
I would like to revise my position to all the cheap buck, boost and buck/boost converters I've tried have been crappy.
I would not mind one that was $50 if it was well made. I can conclude that some of my power supply failures were related to running them too close to capacity. So instead of buying a 15 Amp one for $80 I can used two of these in parallel at 60% for $60. The challenge will be if I have enough self control to not turn them up. :)
 
I went back to mine last night and I can not get it to unlock. It would be okay if it was locked at 14.4 volts and 10 Amps where I thought I locked it but it is locked at 5 Amps and 3 volts which is useless. Anybody know how to reset one of these. I unplugged it and even took off the small circuit board that contains the buttons and display.
;)
I am blaming all this on @smoothJoey , if he had not revised his position and changed his avatar this might not have happened.

I have time to return it to Amazon so all is not lost.
 
I'll look for my instructions. It has a lock mode, and you can also set the default voltage and current. It was holding 2 buttons.
Just have to find that little paper that came with it.
 
I'll look for my instructions. It has a lock mode, and you can also set the default voltage and current. It was holding 2 buttons.
Just have to find that little paper that came with it.
I got the instructions and was holding the two buttons. I can never get it to come up with the uloc display by pushing the OK button. I am going to give it a rest and try again.
 
Ok, just tried it on mine

It has to be showing the current with the output off, then hold the "OK" key and it unlocks.
Holding "OK" while voltage is showing will lock it again.
 
Thanks. The issue seems to be it goes into F0 mode when I do that. I will try to change the output mode, I may have inadvertently changed that setting.
 
Don'y hold the SET button. Just tap set until it shows the current setting "3.00A" then hold in OK
 
I'm torn. Previous posts suggest to avoid going below 3.0v. I'll try a few more cycles and hopefully it improves.
Ok, After contacting bigbattery, they sent me 2 replacements. The first replacement had the same issue where cell 2 was dipping faster than the rest of the pack. The 2nd replacement had the same issue as my first battery where cell 7 was dipping.

I refuse to give up on this battery so I did more reading. As previously posted by other users, these battery chemistry has a steep slope once you go below ~3V and there's a flat region when cells are at nominal voltage. Same steep slope at the other end when charging. My initial thought is to bottom balance. My theory is when the battery has a decent charge (3.2V) then they are all in the flat region. But where in the flat region you are, you don't know. In my case cell 7 had a 3.23V reading but it was still closer to the roll off than the rest of the pack. And since I'm not charging this 100%, cell 7 doesn't move away from this hill.

Bottom balancing may have worked because I would force all cells to all be in the same spot where it's close to the hill. So when I charge the entire pack, they all move away from this knee, and when the battery is discharging, they all reach the knee around the same time.

But this would mean I would have to discharge 7 cells. So, I went a different way. I bought a power supply and connected it to cell 7 and charged just this cell by itself so I know it's farther away from the knee than it used to be.

Tonight is the first time I'm discharging it so we'll see what happens tomorrow and where they all stand.

This is how the battery was when I first got it.
1603252309365.png
This is after giving cell 7 a boost. I've never seen all cells this close ever before.
1603252456071.png
 
@Benaranguren any update on reaching 20v-28.8v? I’m having the same issue and I’m considering opening it up to bottom balance and top balance the cells individually
 
I ordered 3 of the Plug and Play A123 batteries from bigbattery on Monday 10/12, they shipped on 10/22 and were delivered to me 10/24 via Fedex.

They were well packed and appear to be well made. I have attached some photos of the way the arrived and the BMS.

I did a capacity test on one of the batteries today. It was bulk charged at 28.8V, then float charged at 27V, and then rested for 3 hours. When the capacity test began the battery measured 26.8v.

I was unsure how far to discharge for the test and did not want to take any chances so ended the test shortly after the voltage dropped to 25.2v.

Being that this is the first capacity test I have done I would welcome any feedback. For instance, how far should this battery be depleted? Test results are pictured. I have two other batteries to test still, one is running tonight and I should have results in the morning.
 

Attachments

  • D1C635EE-D03C-4311-BBA8-756F5C33314B.jpeg
    D1C635EE-D03C-4311-BBA8-756F5C33314B.jpeg
    107.9 KB · Views: 9
  • 6E1D22B5-49A0-46E5-ADC4-994673560B04.jpeg
    6E1D22B5-49A0-46E5-ADC4-994673560B04.jpeg
    60.7 KB · Views: 8
  • 77C4808A-415C-4845-92DF-9B3AE21E513A.jpeg
    77C4808A-415C-4845-92DF-9B3AE21E513A.jpeg
    137.4 KB · Views: 8
  • FEA60E3D-834A-4A73-972C-196FE1E2252C.jpeg
    FEA60E3D-834A-4A73-972C-196FE1E2252C.jpeg
    35.7 KB · Views: 9
  • 5846359A-156C-428E-8F5C-3AEC80E28BD8.jpeg
    5846359A-156C-428E-8F5C-3AEC80E28BD8.jpeg
    96.2 KB · Views: 8
It has a BMS so there shouldn't be any risk in taking it down to BMS cut off if you want to get full capacity rating out of it. Obviously if you are trying to wring every last cycle out of the battery this wouldn't be done as a regular activity, but once for a test is not going to cause problems unless the battery is defective... in which case, warranty time.
 
It has a BMS so there shouldn't be any risk in taking it down to BMS cut off if you want to get full capacity rating out of it. Obviously if you are trying to wring every last cycle out of the battery this wouldn't be done as a regular activity, but once for a test is not going to cause problems unless the battery is defective... in which case, warranty time.

Thank you good to know. It has a BMS but there is no monitoring that I know of. I was unsure when it would cut it off.
 
@dirtybobby423 If you charged to 28.8v the BMS is probably programmed to BB specs of 20v-28.8v. I printed out the specs from their site so I always have them on hand: https://bigbattery.com/product/24v-a123-lfp-battery-free-shipping/

You are still within the 30 day return window so I would give them all a chance to cut off at 20v. It looks like you got 80.7aH which is about 87% of the advertised capacity. Still a good deal considering the price, lets see how long they last for us
 
I’m having the same issue and I’m considering opening it up to bottom balance and top balance the cells individually
It doesn't make sense to top balance and bottom balance.
If you are using a balancing BMS then you almost certainly want to top balance.
 
@dirtybobby423 If you charged to 28.8v the BMS is probably programmed to BB specs of 20v-28.8v. I printed out the specs from their site so I always have them on hand: https://bigbattery.com/product/24v-a123-lfp-battery-free-shipping/

You are still within the 30 day return window so I would give them all a chance to cut off at 20v. It looks like you got 80.7aH which is about 87% of the advertised capacity. Still a good deal considering the price, lets see how long they last for us
I think it will hit the advertised capacity if I Iet them discharge all the way to 20. I will let you know how it goes.
 
Back
Top