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EG4 18k or two 6000XP can't decide

Victron doesn't require victron batteries.

I have a home-built 14s NMC battery with Batrium BMS fully in control of my Victron system.

The EG4 48V server rack batteries work with Victron as well with Venus OS 3.00 and higher.
Interesting setup, hope it lasts a good long while for you! Yes, V doesn't require V batteries understand. I called a local, Victron supplier, and they barely wanted to suggest a Victron Quattro II inverter to be semi-comparable to EG4 6000XP. They said the Quattro II is 230V European voltage so probably wouldn't take care of our 400' induction pump 240V, like the 6000XP could, and didn't really want to continue the conversation, and stressed they wouldn't warranty anything. Is there another Victron inverter that would be comparable?
 
Interesting setup, hope it lasts a good long while for you! Yes, V doesn't require V batteries understand. I called a local, Victron supplier, and they barely wanted to suggest a Victron Quattro II inverter to be semi-comparable to EG4 6000XP. They said the Quattro II is 230V European voltage so probably wouldn't take care of our 400' induction pump 240V, like the 6000XP could, and didn't really want to continue the conversation, and stressed they wouldn't warranty anything. Is there another Victron inverter that would be comparable?

All North American Victron inverters are 120V. You get 120/240V split phase with 2X inverters working in parallel.

IMHO, Quattros should never be used unless there is a clear need for TWO AC inputs (only one active at a time), or there is not a multiplus/multiplus II available in the voltage/power you need. I'm only running Quattros because these units weren't available when I was in the market.

@Adam De Lay is running 2X MP-II 48/5000 in parallel for split phase, and he switched due to problems with the predecessor to the EG4 6000XP.

Victron has been around since the 70s. How long has EG4 been around? :P
 
All North American Victron inverters are 120V. You get 120/240V split phase with 2X inverters working in parallel.

IMHO, Quattros should never be used unless there is a clear need for TWO AC inputs (only one active at a time), or there is not a multiplus/multiplus II available in the voltage/power you need. I'm only running Quattros because these units weren't available when I was in the market.

@Adam De Lay is running 2X MP-II 48/5000 in parallel for split phase, and he switched due to problems with the predecessor to the EG4 6000XP.

Victron has been around since the 70s. How long has EG4 been around? :p
To be perfectly transparent, I was sent the Victron system for testing and reviewing but I would never switch back to the 6500EX inverters. What’s next on the horizon, not sure but it would have to be a pretty amazing system for me to change my main system away from Victron inverters.
 
All North American Victron inverters are 120V. You get 120/240V split phase with 2X inverters working in parallel.

IMHO, Quattros should never be used unless there is a clear need for TWO AC inputs (only one active at a time), or there is not a multiplus/multiplus II available in the voltage/power you need. I'm only running Quattros because these units weren't available when I was in the market.

@Adam De Lay is running 2X MP-II 48/5000 in parallel for split phase, and he switched due to problems with the predecessor to the EG4 6000XP.

Victron has been around since the 70s. How long has EG4 been around? :p
Yes Victron rocks, yes yes, a couple MP-II 48/5000 looks conceivable... watching a few youtubes on it... oy tired, thanks for tips, g'night
 
To be perfectly transparent, I was sent the Victron system for testing and reviewing but I would never switch back to the 6500EX inverters. What’s next on the horizon, not sure but it would have to be a pretty amazing system for me to change my main system away from Victron inverters.
Great, where will you post your reviews of the Victron you are testing? Seems like EG4 has fixed a lot of what is wrong with the 6500EX by releasing the 6000XP. Although with the 6000XP, seems folks wish they had an additional phone app screen to see both 120v sides at the same time, and total, or additional screen they can program parameters they want to see all at a glance, Wish there was a way to change the 5 minute auto restart to a shorter wait time.
 
Great, where will you post your reviews of the Victron you are testing? Seems like EG4 has fixed a lot of what is wrong with the 6500EX by releasing the 6000XP. Although with the 6000XP, seems folks wish they had an additional phone app screen to see both 120v sides at the same time, and total, or additional screen they can program parameters they want to see all at a glance, Wish there was a way to change the 5 minute auto restart to a shorter wait time.
What is the 5 minute auto restart time you are referring to?
 
Great, where will you post your reviews of the Victron you are testing? Seems like EG4 has fixed a lot of what is wrong with the 6500EX by releasing the 6000XP. Although with the 6000XP, seems folks wish they had an additional phone app screen to see both 120v sides at the same time, and total, or additional screen they can program parameters they want to see all at a glance, Wish there was a way to change the 5 minute auto restart to a shorter wait time.
On my Youtube channel. Just search for my name.

What is the 5 minute auto restart time you are referring to?
The "auto-restart" after an overload
 
At least it's a decipherable time. My Growatts seem to make up that time interval randomly so i never know when or IF they are going to auto-restart or whether i should manually turn them off and back on again. Thankfully it becomes less and less of an issue as i improve things and get better at not over-drawing the system.

As far as the inverter choice I would go for whichever has or has better built-in 'load shedding' aka turning off a 2nd ac output based on battery SOC or other conditions. That's the biggest feature i would pay money to not have to come up with myself, if i were comparing two otherwise similar setups.

There's also something to be said for redundancy or contingencies as far as having two inverters vs one.. if one inverter out of a pair fails you still have SOME power available, vs if you have only a single large inverter and it fails you have no power. But you might have other options available already anyway in the generator or a vehicle-based system, etc. For example, i have a 5kw 120v inverter and a 4kw gas generator as 'easy' backup options, and some other smaller more tedious options so for me it would not be unthinkable to swap my 2 paralleled inverters for one larger one as i would still have 'contingencies'. But it's something to think about in the 2 small vs 1 big inverter discussion.
 
I have the 18k and using for offgrid and I am very pleased with it. Very solid piece of equipment. At the time the 6000xp's were not out. No question in my mind, if I had it to do over again and the 6000xps were available, I would have gone that way. It provide redundancy of 240v service should one go out, and you have added solar capacity with 2 separate MPPTs per unit. You can buy 3 at the same price and have one in waiting if needed.
 
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I have the 18k and using for offgrid and I am very pleased with it. Very solid piece of equipment. At the time the 6000xp's were not out. No question in my mind, if I had it to do over again and the 6000xps were available, I would have gone that way. It provide redundancy of 240v service should one go out, and you have added solar capacity with 2 separate MPPTs per unit. You can buy 3 at the same price and have one in waiting if needed.
good feedback, thanks!
 
At least it's a decipherable time. My Growatts seem to make up that time interval randomly so i never know when or IF they are going to auto-restart or whether i should manually turn them off and back on again. Thankfully it becomes less and less of an issue as i improve things and get better at not over-drawing the system.

As far as the inverter choice I would go for whichever has or has better built-in 'load shedding' aka turning off a 2nd ac output based on battery SOC or other conditions. That's the biggest feature i would pay money to not have to come up with myself, if i were comparing two otherwise similar setups.

There's also something to be said for redundancy or contingencies as far as having two inverters vs one.. if one inverter out of a pair fails you still have SOME power available, vs if you have only a single large inverter and it fails you have no power. But you might have other options available already anyway in the generator or a vehicle-based system, etc. For example, i have a 5kw 120v inverter and a 4kw gas generator as 'easy' backup options, and some other smaller more tedious options so for me it would not be unthinkable to swap my 2 paralleled inverters for one larger one as i would still have 'contingencies'. But it's something to think about in the 2 small vs 1 big inverter discussion.
Good point, as long as you know, you can start timer on phone upstairs, and then if inverter doesn't come on in 4min30sec, then start heading downstairs to the mechanical room. Yes, we have shunt reading upstairs on the wall so can see voltage drop when we turn on microwave or pump, so we are hyper aware of our loads, and have always shut our system down before it reaches 42V, (like at 43.5V), so our inverter hasn't shut itself off in a while.

My husband fixed our 120V/240V AC gas generator problem from last week - somehow the inverter was set to 'automatic' generator when it should have been set to 'manual' generator. Yes we drag our 5kW gas generator out in the snow to use it (thinking of getting Kohler or Generac to replace it), although this time in the wet denser snowstorm he left it running in the garage with the garage door open. In 13 years we've never had this problem, we think it's strange that after 13 years he would bump a setting the wrong way to select 'automatic'... so easy to do on older systems, and we are looking forward to the easy app software in the new inverter that can quickly tell if we set something wrong with a wrong finger swipe.

Yes good point, redundant inverter is necessary, we've both agreed on this before, I only went down the debate rabbit hole of 1 vs 2 because 6000W seemed so big initially because we originally wanted 5k inverter, hate to go overkill, but the realism of market availability reigns, and hey we can more comfortably charge PHEV cars this way.
 
generator although this time in the wet denser snowstorm he left it running in the garage with the garage door open.
A bit off topic for the thread, but please don't do that. Definitely not safe. Just a tiny shift in the wind, or not enough wind, or any number of other unpredictable factors, and some person like me is getting paged to go to your house, hopefully to help get you outside, revived, and checked out, but potentially to carry you and your family out of the house for the last time. Never, ever, ever, run a generator inside your home, even in the garage with the doors wide open. Sure, sometimes - maybe for years - it's fine. Until one day it's not, and then it's too often tragic. Go a few extra feet, outside, into a well-ventilated area. Buy a GFCI device for the cord if the generator doesn't have that built in. Test those, too, every time you start the generator. Takes seconds. Saves lives.

We like having you here on the forum. Let's keep your around for that, and a thousand other reasons. Preaching over, but I really don't want to get that call one day.
 
A bit off topic for the thread, but please don't do that. Definitely not safe. Just a tiny shift in the wind, or not enough wind, or any number of other unpredictable factors, and some person like me is getting paged to go to your house, hopefully to help get you outside, revived, and checked out, but potentially to carry you and your family out of the house for the last time. Never, ever, ever, run a generator inside your home, even in the garage with the doors wide open. Sure, sometimes - maybe for years - it's fine. Until one day it's not, and then it's too often tragic. Go a few extra feet, outside, into a well-ventilated area. Buy a GFCI device for the cord if the generator doesn't have that built in. Test those, too, every time you start the generator. Takes seconds. Saves lives.

We like having you here on the forum. Let's keep your around for that, and a thousand other reasons. Preaching over, but I really don't want to get that call one day.
Yes, any negative pressure in the house can easily suck in carbon monoxide from the garage, even with the garage door open.
 
A bit off topic for the thread, but please don't do that. Definitely not safe. Just a tiny shift in the wind, or not enough wind, or any number of other unpredictable factors, and some person like me is getting paged to go to your house, hopefully to help get you outside, revived, and checked out, but potentially to carry you and your family out of the house for the last time. Never, ever, ever, run a generator inside your home, even in the garage with the doors wide open. Sure, sometimes - maybe for years - it's fine. Until one day it's not, and then it's too often tragic. Go a few extra feet, outside, into a well-ventilated area. Buy a GFCI device for the cord if the generator doesn't have that built in. Test those, too, every time you start the generator. Takes seconds. Saves lives.

We like having you here on the forum. Let's keep your around for that, and a thousand other reasons. Preaching over, but I really don't want to get that call one day.
Yes we've never done it before, usually always take it outside, and our garage is wide open big and tall ceilings, has multiple doors and windows for cross ventilation, and mech room between the main house, so we always entered from the already open outside (not the mech room) so as not to create negative pressure on the mechanical room. It was a dense miserable 14" of snow that sliding off the roof was dangerous and nearly took him out parking the tractor, he would've been hit 10 seconds earlier. I told him not to do it, it was only for an hour, will remind him again. But we don't have a GFCI on it. Guess we'll have to wire that in, not a plug in. In 13 years we've mostly run power tools off the generator, and have hooked it up to the house maybe 10x, I doubt 15x. Thanks.
 
Hi, this is my 1st post, thanks Will for excellent videos over the past year! We've lived off grid at mountain house for 13 years on 3.6kW Outback inverter (VFX3648 Outback Inverter), 48V lead acid batteries (qty 16 all 6 volt 370Ahin 8 in series to make 48V string x 2 strings parallel 48V) and solar panels (12 panels total in series and parallel). I have a 2017 Prius Prime PHEV which my husband doesn't like me charging (Level 1 only) because of delicate house batteries, so I only charge on sunny days when house batteries are 95% charged, never after 4pm. (We have a small 240V transformer for a 600' well pump but I can't use it for Level 2 PHEV charging, its too small). At 9600' in Woodland Park Colorado, 7 miles as crow flies from Pikes Peak, we get many sunny days in winter, with snow reflection its easy to top off batteries. Three weeks ago our lead acid batteries sagged to 43.5 volts so we stoked 2 woodstoves all night long, sun came up in the morning and woke solar panels up to charge batteries and all was fine. Husband dragged gasoline generator outside to make sure it worked for an hour in snowstorm but never had to connect it this year to top off batteries. We also didn't use gasoline generator at all last year, but year before that used it 2x. Back when we only had 8 batteries instead of 16 batteries, and 6 solar panels instead of 12, we had to use the gas generator 3 times the first year year, but only 1x or 2x or no times all subsequent years, so not bad for over 13 years. Our VFX3648W Outback inverter system is great but nearing 15 years old, doesn't seem like they've had major updates. Now we want Automatic Transfer Switch ATS Generac or Kohler, heard Kohler slightly more reliable but parts can be harder to fine, whereas Generac reliability is still top notch and eBay parts can be found quickly all over the US. Would two EG4 6000XPs be good to replace the one Outback inverter, since we are a mile away from public utility so not doing grid tied? Or does the EG4 18k have a better automatic switch? How about for Level 2 PHEV charging? What if my husband buys a PHEV car, not sure if 2024 Prius Prime PHEV or something like a 2024 Hyundai Tucson PHEV? (In addition to my 2017 Prius Prime PHEV)? What if we add off grid sauna hybrid heat (two 20A breakers (4500W and 3750W both at 240V). or instead of that, what if we add off grid hot tub hybrid heat pump or electric or woodstove fired? Thinking heat with electric during day only IF we are not charging PHEV cars, then top off at night with woodstove when we actually use it at 7pm - 8pm for half hour? Also, is one system easier than other to program the hot tub breaker to shut off if batteries drop below 95% or some threshold? And also to cut off charging 1 or 2 PHEV cars if batteries drop below 95%? Also I just bought Bluetti AC180 for my Ford Transit Connect camper van build because I can easily lift 35 lbs in and out and Bluetti 200W portable solar panels came with it for package $899 great deal and btw it can charge my prius prime for a half hour before shutting down with no error codes and works just fine after (won't do that often but its a fun party trick to show it'll get me charged enough to drive 3 miles haha). I don't think it's appropriate to tie my Bluetti AC180 into charging my prius prime at mountain house, unless somehow as a pass thru but really it's just for camping and stored inside our city house for backup if power goes out in city, we are on city power there. Unless the Bluetti has a use case at mountain house? Also, spoke to Signature Solar today and to grid tie city house then EG4 18k would cost me BALLPARK $9800 everything new batteries. But if I didn't grid tie, two EG4 6000XPs would also cost same BALLPARK price $9800. BEFORE I use Signature Solar's free online load calculator so they can give me better recommendation and quote, ARE THERE ANY OTHER CONSIDERATIONS? Any pros/cons at city house? Schneider didn't make cut. Might be nice to have same system both places to make software easier? My husband knows we are undersized at mountain house and has no problem resizing to larger system but is frugal and wants best value. Which is better for ATS Automatic Transfer Switch generator input 18k or two 6000XPs? Or wait 6 months or one year for a better system that plays better with automatic switch generator? I also thought about Will's hand truck video EG4 3k with one 6000XP split phase and buy 10 used solar panels laying on the ground to charge my prius prime completely separate from the mountain house, so my husband doesn't have to worry about critical systems breaking and pipes freezing, for $2290, on wheels! This would be major PITA wheeling it in and out every time I want to charge, but It'd also be useful for friends with PHEV that are visiting us at mountain house, we wouldn't feel bad about not allowing them to charge on our house batteries, hmmm... Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Update REVISED: We will replace all batteries soonest with EG4 LL 48V 100ah server rack mounted batteries, quantity 9, now, instead of waiting until summer. Then this summer we'll replace our 3648W Outback inverter with one EG4 6000XP. And add a string of 10-12 solar panels. Husband convinced me to live meagerly last 13 years, but he is probably not willing to size the system for any electric & wood hot tub but instead do all 100% woodstove heat on wood hot tub. And he thinks a 4.5kW sauna seems excessive, he wants 100% wood fired sauna. . We're ok with ground mount 1 foot from ground, if elk, bear and mountain lions won't bother them, but I wonder if they will? We'll add them to our existing 12 solar panels. Our existing solar panels bought new 10 & 14 years ago are half on one tall steel pillar and half on a 2nd similar tall steel pillar. We rotate one steel pillar with sun 3-4 x / year , and also can twirl on post but we leave the twirling stationary, one slightly to east to catch 30 more minutes of morning sun rays, and one slightly west to catch 30 more minutes of setting sun rays for an hour more each day of solar charging activity.

We'll also add wind, such as small $1000 3' diameter Primus wind turbine 48V. And dissipative heat load - will this force us into 2nd EG 6000XP inverter? Any pros/cons? What do folks think of ~$5500 Harmony Turbines not available yet? Can folks recommend solar thermal panels that work on water only, not glycol? On home tour in my town, another off gridder installed 4 huge solar thermal panels (maybe 3'x 7' unsure) on a tiny angle (2-3%) so only water is used, not glycol, and her hot water only costs a $FEW kwh cents a day to pump the water up, because when it gets too cold at the end of the day, gravity feeds all the water back to her mechanical room heat exchanger so no freezing problems, no leaks in over 12 years in cold Colorado. She has 500 gal water inside mech room, looks like concrete or quick rete encased tank. We heat our home with woodstove and propane but are eating it up with 1300' addition last year of glycol in floor heat. Would it be better to add extra heating with solar thermal, or with 10-20 extra solar panels of electric energy added onto our existing 12 solar panels we've had 14 years? Thanks so much.
I am in a very similar situation. Looking for a system for an off grid cabin at 10k in the Sangre de Cristo mountains. I have been reading the 6000XP is only rated for 2kilometers (6561 ft) elevations. Wondering if you discussed elevation with the folks at Signature Solar?
 
I am in a very similar situation. Looking for a system for an off grid cabin at 10k in the Sangre de Cristo mountains. I have been reading the 6000XP is only rated for 2kilometers (6561 ft) elevations. Wondering if you discussed elevation with the folks at Signature Solar?

Thin air allows for potential shorts across circuit gaps. If the equipment is not designed for this, they can internally short.
 
Hi, this is my 1st post, thanks Will for excellent videos over the past year! We've lived off grid at mountain house for 13 years on 3.6kW Outback inverter (VFX3648 Outback Inverter), 48V lead acid batteries (qty 16 all 6 volt 370Ahin 8 in series to make 48V string x 2 strings parallel 48V) and solar panels (12 panels total in series and parallel). I have a 2017 Prius Prime PHEV which my husband doesn't like me charging (Level 1 only) because of delicate house batteries, so I only charge on sunny days when house batteries are 95% charged, never after 4pm. (We have a small 240V transformer for a 600' well pump but I can't use it for Level 2 PHEV charging, its too small). At 9600' in Woodland Park Colorado, 7 miles as crow flies from Pikes Peak, we get many sunny days in winter, with snow reflection its easy to top off batteries. Three weeks ago our lead acid batteries sagged to 43.5 volts so we stoked 2 woodstoves all night long, sun came up in the morning and woke solar panels up to charge batteries and all was fine. Husband dragged gasoline generator outside to make sure it worked for an hour in snowstorm but never had to connect it this year to top off batteries. We also didn't use gasoline generator at all last year, but year before that used it 2x. Back when we only had 8 batteries instead of 16 batteries, and 6 solar panels instead of 12, we had to use the gas generator 3 times the first year year, but only 1x or 2x or no times all subsequent years, so not bad for over 13 years. Our VFX3648W Outback inverter system is great but nearing 15 years old, doesn't seem like they've had major updates. Now we want Automatic Transfer Switch ATS Generac or Kohler, heard Kohler slightly more reliable but parts can be harder to fine, whereas Generac reliability is still top notch and eBay parts can be found quickly all over the US. Would two EG4 6000XPs be good to replace the one Outback inverter, since we are a mile away from public utility so not doing grid tied? Or does the EG4 18k have a better automatic switch? How about for Level 2 PHEV charging? What if my husband buys a PHEV car, not sure if 2024 Prius Prime PHEV or something like a 2024 Hyundai Tucson PHEV? (In addition to my 2017 Prius Prime PHEV)? What if we add off grid sauna hybrid heat (two 20A breakers (4500W and 3750W both at 240V). or instead of that, what if we add off grid hot tub hybrid heat pump or electric or woodstove fired? Thinking heat with electric during day only IF we are not charging PHEV cars, then top off at night with woodstove when we actually use it at 7pm - 8pm for half hour? Also, is one system easier than other to program the hot tub breaker to shut off if batteries drop below 95% or some threshold? And also to cut off charging 1 or 2 PHEV cars if batteries drop below 95%? Also I just bought Bluetti AC180 for my Ford Transit Connect camper van build because I can easily lift 35 lbs in and out and Bluetti 200W portable solar panels came with it for package $899 great deal and btw it can charge my prius prime for a half hour before shutting down with no error codes and works just fine after (won't do that often but its a fun party trick to show it'll get me charged enough to drive 3 miles haha). I don't think it's appropriate to tie my Bluetti AC180 into charging my prius prime at mountain house, unless somehow as a pass thru but really it's just for camping and stored inside our city house for backup if power goes out in city, we are on city power there. Unless the Bluetti has a use case at mountain house? Also, spoke to Signature Solar today and to grid tie city house then EG4 18k would cost me BALLPARK $9800 everything new batteries. But if I didn't grid tie, two EG4 6000XPs would also cost same BALLPARK price $9800. BEFORE I use Signature Solar's free online load calculator so they can give me better recommendation and quote, ARE THERE ANY OTHER CONSIDERATIONS? Any pros/cons at city house? Schneider didn't make cut. Might be nice to have same system both places to make software easier? My husband knows we are undersized at mountain house and has no problem resizing to larger system but is frugal and wants best value. Which is better for ATS Automatic Transfer Switch generator input 18k or two 6000XPs? Or wait 6 months or one year for a better system that plays better with automatic switch generator? I also thought about Will's hand truck video EG4 3k with one 6000XP split phase and buy 10 used solar panels laying on the ground to charge my prius prime completely separate from the mountain house, so my husband doesn't have to worry about critical systems breaking and pipes freezing, for $2290, on wheels! This would be major PITA wheeling it in and out every time I want to charge, but It'd also be useful for friends with PHEV that are visiting us at mountain house, we wouldn't feel bad about not allowing them to charge on our house batteries, hmmm... Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Update REVISED: We will replace all batteries soonest with EG4 LL 48V 100ah server rack mounted batteries, quantity 9, now, instead of waiting until summer. Then this summer we'll replace our 3648W Outback inverter with one EG4 6000XP. And add a string of 10-12 solar panels. Husband convinced me to live meagerly last 13 years, but he is probably not willing to size the system for any electric & wood hot tub but instead do all 100% woodstove heat on wood hot tub. And he thinks a 4.5kW sauna seems excessive, he wants 100% wood fired sauna. . We're ok with ground mount 1 foot from ground, if elk, bear and mountain lions won't bother them, but I wonder if they will? We'll add them to our existing 12 solar panels. Our existing solar panels bought new 10 & 14 years ago are half on one tall steel pillar and half on a 2nd similar tall steel pillar. We rotate one steel pillar with sun 3-4 x / year , and also can twirl on post but we leave the twirling stationary, one slightly to east to catch 30 more minutes of morning sun rays, and one slightly west to catch 30 more minutes of setting sun rays for an hour more each day of solar charging activity.

We'll also add wind, such as small $1000 3' diameter Primus wind turbine 48V. And dissipative heat load - will this force us into 2nd EG 6000XP inverter? Any pros/cons? What do folks think of ~$5500 Harmony Turbines not available yet? Can folks recommend solar thermal panels that work on water only, not glycol? On home tour in my town, another off gridder installed 4 huge solar thermal panels (maybe 3'x 7' unsure) on a tiny angle (2-3%) so only water is used, not glycol, and her hot water only costs a $FEW kwh cents a day to pump the water up, because when it gets too cold at the end of the day, gravity feeds all the water back to her mechanical room heat exchanger so no freezing problems, no leaks in over 12 years in cold Colorado. She has 500 gal water inside mech room, looks like concrete or quick rete encased tank. We heat our home with woodstove and propane but are eating it up with 1300' addition last year of glycol in floor heat. Would it be better to add extra heating with solar thermal, or with 10-20 extra solar panels of electric energy added onto our existing 12 solar panels we've had 14 years? Thanks so much.
in summary… that, friends, is what happens if you live off grid in the woods.
 
I'd use a pair of 6000 XPs. They are priced in a more "replace is cheaper than repair" way and you can ship it in a smaller box. I think the world we are hurtling towards encourages those types of dimensional economics. BUT... Use soft starters for all inductive or high inrush devices like pumps and compressors or I think we'll burn through these little wonderboxes faster than they tell us. They are cheap because they are high frequency inverter designs that use much less Cu and labor to make.
 
I'd probably would have bought 2 6000xp's if they had offered them before the 18kpv came out as that was the route I went. I paid for extra features I did not need sense I am strictly off grid. After using it for a year now, I'd never trade down. The prices have came down a bit for the 18kpv and feel it's worth the extra grand for 1 box to do the same and more of 2 boxes in addition to twice the warranty period.
 
Another gotcha of high altitude is that air cooling is less effective if there is less air. The 6000XPs are forced-air cooled, as can be seen by the fans along the edges. It might be that if they are running flat out they would overheat if the air were thinner than a certain amount.
 

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