Hello,
Had they all been sold as 272's you would be delighted. As 280's, there are a fairly high number below 98% capacity. I'll be interested to see your final tally. How much have you varied the C rates?
Riden 6012w or 6018w - buy one ---- yes, I found out you have to buy the clock battery - not included; you have to buy a power cord for the power supply - not included; you have to buy the banana post leads with an alligator clamp on the other end - not included; (I bought 20 amp capable silicone ones. buy the better ones
assemble it. it works great with good accuracy. I have the Riden 6012w which means wifi. I ordered the 6018w with a 1200 watt power supply.. it is on its way. somewhere on a boat ride but it has been shipped. probably after Christmas before I get to assembly the 6018w. I really like the Riden 6012w so had to order the 6018w as the upgrade to the solar power shed.
yes, Chinese tools do not equal high-quality German tools. this was quite obvious when buying tools in Bolivia South America. the USA made tools were definitely of higher quality than the cheap china imports. you do not get a Mercedes for the same price as a Yugo. these 280Ah cells are at bargain prices right now for the DIY solar people. likely a few duds here and there. I have been buying the Lishen 280Ah cells but probably the same as the 272Ah ones, although they did have both in the same advertisement at slightly different prices. sorry for the soapbox but be happy for the low prices of today for the better LiFePO4 batteries.I think you would find that the resellers will quickly say the cells are A- or some such. Logically if a cell met all specs it would not be sold as grey market - there is an almost unlimited demand so why wouldn't EVE sell themselves? Even the resellers are selling them as fast as they can get them in the door by the truckload so they are not going to change their approach unless it increases their profit margins.
I've purchased enough times from that part of the world to suspect how things would go. Westerners are preconditioned to believe marketing but those with some experience tend to consider price as a direct measure of quality. You are not going to get a Tesla Powerwall for 25% of the price.
This is all pretty academic based upon people's perception of if they are being marketed to or lied to. Most consumers would not even bother to test the capacity of a low cost battery purchased and installed in a vehicle etc. as Will is doing. -0.6% on spec is just not relevant. Ever buy a 2.0 liter car and discover it is in fact only 1.96l? Or that the fuel consumption and pollution figures only apply if it is hooked up to a test stand
To the best of my knowledge there is no 280Ah Lishen cell, Lishen produces a cell rated at 272Ah, which the resellers are sometimes marketing as a 280Ah cell (it is common for some manufacturers to de-rate capacity slightly to account for the initial capacity drop in the first couple hundred cycles, and other factors). So 272Ah cells may test at or above 280Ah initially, it is too early to say conclusively (the first capacity test I have seen for the Lishen's showed cells ranging from ~274-284 I think). What we can say conclusively is they are rated for 272 Ah, the manufacturer considers them 272 Ah, and we should in my opinion use the manufacturers stated capacity from the datasheet when talking about these cells, any additional capacity is icing on the cake.
My nimh charger got a refresh function, it charge the battery then discharge at a known rate and calculate the capacity, then it recharge again and redo the process till the improvement is under a threshold.
Yes, clock battery and power cord. Banana plugs and alligator clips are crap anyways and so are the DC cables that come with cheap power supplies. I used 12awg silicone wire with 1/4 inch ring terminals for connecting to the battery side, and I used the fork terminals that came with the Riden for connecting to the Riden. I soldered everything.Riden 6012w or 6018w - buy one ---- yes, I found out you have to buy the clock battery - not included; you have to buy a power cord for the power supply - not included; you have to buy the banana post leads with an alligator clamp on the other end - not included; (I bought 20 amp capable silicone ones. buy the better ones
we are having a white Christmas here at pilgrimvalley in South Dakota....yea ....ho ho ho! snowed about 5 inches today.
I lived in Montana for a year and traveled the state extensively for work in 2006. it is a great place for sure.Yes, clock battery and power cord. Banana plugs and alligator clips are crap anyways and so are the DC cables that come with cheap power supplies. I used 12awg silicone wire with 1/4 inch ring terminals for connecting to the battery side, and I used the fork terminals that came with the Riden for connecting to the Riden. I soldered everything.
Bah humbug....lol. I am originally from Montana and miss the snow, but not the cold. Currently in Texas. Enjoy the snow and Merry Christmas..
cr1220; this what i put in the 6012w, you also need a power cord. i bought one on ebay etc
Thanks, an other confirmation that it.do not apply to Lithium.
I will solder them too, I'm more confident to soldered connections.Yes, clock battery and power cord. Banana plugs and alligator clips are crap anyways and so are the DC cables that come with cheap power supplies. I used 12awg silicone wire with 1/4 inch ring terminals for connecting to the battery side, and I used the fork terminals that came with the Riden for connecting to the Riden. I soldered everything.
Bah humbug....lol. I am originally from Montana and miss the snow, but not the cold. Currently in Texas. Enjoy the snow and Merry Christmas..
you can buy 48-volt lights and 24-volt lights led type on aliexpress if you search for them. I think one could utilize this to minimize inverter use. the inverter is a power thief for sure. or put up more solar panels and a bigger battery. expensive. always best to conserve energy--- use more insulation in the house was always a priority.
Yes, I will build 2 circuis, one 48v (lights, water pump, aquarium pump..things that can be used at night/day. And a 220v which will be pretty simple, in the kitchen and in the office to use "normal" devices.
Soldering is clean, convenient, and lasts when done right, with less chance of corrosion and oxidation occurring. BUT...if your goal is to mitigate as much resistance as possible, then consider crimping instead. A good crimper and good quality tinned/copper lugs are superior to solder and has less resistance than even crimp + solder, which is somewhere between, as far as resistance is concerned. Look at any prefab, high current cabling and jumpers, jumper cables, welding cables and clamps. High current tends to melt solder when things go south but the primary reason is lower resistance.
Hello,
Just an FYI, the meter you show testing the internal resistance of the cells? The manual I have for it specifically states that above 100AH capacity it is inaccurate. (Yes, I have a YR1035+)
I also have a new YR1035+, on my EVE 280's it reports .17mΩ - .18mΩ on the cells.
I don't know about all of that. We are using less than 20 amps depending on the Riden. And I also soldered the ring terminals on my BMS wires. Personally for those types of things I prefer solder over crimping.
I am ordering the 18 amp board myself, like you I got the 12 amp kit. So I am just ordering the board and will use the same case and power supply.
Fortunately Amazon delivered the correct battery early the next morning. It is a nice power supply.
I agree with you fully. Some years ago, I witnessed what I stated and I cannot explain it since I'm no chemist. It was an interesting observation for sure. Solder flows onto clean copper surfaces like oil does on metal, making its way into the tightest of joints. Is it possible for solder to make its way between tightly compressed surfaces? I don't see how. I suppose if the solder molecules are small enough, I reckon solder could invade those surfaces and potentially disrupt the physical contact from the heat causing expansion and contraction at a molecular level. That's my totally unscientific hypothesis. I can add that the resistance delta between crimp + solder and just a crimp is very small compared to a soldered lug
Well true. I see your point. Dealing with values at 2 or 3 decimals, it just seemed to me that even at low currents, you might be concerned with possible skewed measurements. I've no idea how much shew there would be so thought I'd mention it just in case. I recently got a 6012 myself. Quite a surprising device.
