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Growatt 3000tl lvm-es N-G screw

First off, I have not read through the thread, so this is probably worthless. Add to that, I’m speaking about my experience with a different model, a Growatt 3000TL LVM-48. I do however have the same model you’ve referenced as well (I’ve never used it, I just bought a bunch of leftover “junk” from Current Connected during their move, I assume it works).

Back to the 3000TL LVM (non ES). I purchased it from Watts247, it was my first all in one and first time straying from Victron, the price and size were too attractive to pass up for my tool trailer build.

I installed it without issue, used it for a couple months of very light, intermittent use. I never connected an AC input to it, as I have WAY more solar on the roof than my trailer can possibly use during a standard work day, which is basically a small fridge, and maybe 5 minutes of microwave use, one or two times a week.

Fast forward months later, plans changed for no reason other than me liking to tinker, and missing the monitoring abilities of Victron. The Growatt became a bench test unit.

I again bought something like (25) 200a 12v batteries from Current Connected for almost nothing. I wired them up in 4s groups to charge and discharge for a capacity test.

That’s where this ties into your story, when I connected the grid input, the ground screw was essentially stripped from the factory, as soon as it began grabbing the wire, nowhere near “tight” it stripped out immediately. This was being done by hand, not my first rodeo, it was annoying.

That said I reached out to Watts247 multiple times, emails, calls, the whole works. Never heard a single word back and after about two weeks I simply reached out to my bank and filed a dispute, I made it clear in the dispute I just wanted him to make any attempt to respond, never heard anything back, he didn’t respond to the dispute, I ended up with a refund.

So not I have an inverter I suppose works in off grid mode, I’ve tried connecting grid input with what I thought were clever ideas and I get similar errors to you.

Long story I know, but maybe check and make sure all your wires are indeed connected.
 
First off, I have not read through the thread, so this is probably worthless. Add to that, I’m speaking about my experience with a different model, a Growatt 3000TL LVM-48. I do however have the same model you’ve referenced as well (I’ve never used it, I just bought a bunch of leftover “junk” from Current Connected during their move, I assume it works).

Back to the 3000TL LVM (non ES). I purchased it from Watts247, it was my first all in one and first time straying from Victron, the price and size were too attractive to pass up for my tool trailer build.

I installed it without issue, used it for a couple months of very light, intermittent use. I never connected an AC input to it, as I have WAY more solar on the roof than my trailer can possibly use during a standard work day, which is basically a small fridge, and maybe 5 minutes of microwave use, one or two times a week.

Fast forward months later, plans changed for no reason other than me liking to tinker, and missing the monitoring abilities of Victron. The Growatt became a bench test unit.

I again bought something like (25) 200a 12v batteries from Current Connected for almost nothing. I wired them up in 4s groups to charge and discharge for a capacity test.

That’s where this ties into your story, when I connected the grid input, the ground screw was essentially stripped from the factory, as soon as it began grabbing the wire, nowhere near “tight” it stripped out immediately. This was being done by hand, not my first rodeo, it was annoying.

That said I reached out to Watts247 multiple times, emails, calls, the whole works. Never heard a single word back and after about two weeks I simply reached out to my bank and filed a dispute, I made it clear in the dispute I just wanted him to make any attempt to respond, never heard anything back, he didn’t respond to the dispute, I ended up with a refund.

So not I have an inverter I suppose works in off grid mode, I’ve tried connecting grid input with what I thought were clever ideas and I get similar errors to you.

Long story I know, but maybe check and make sure all your wires are indeed connected.
 
I think I habe it all worked out now, will do some more tests next weekend to double check everything, mine were purchased from signature solar and support is very difficult, it's strange that watts247 didn't respond to you, I have emailed ajd called him with questions on equipment I didn't even purchase from him and his response time has always been fast amd his advise was spot on.
 
I think I habe it all worked out now, will do some more tests next weekend to double check everything, mine were purchased from signature solar and support is very difficult, it's strange that watts247 didn't respond to you, I have emailed ajd called him with questions on equipment I didn't even purchase from him and his response time has always been fast amd his advise was spot on.
I thought the same thing, he’s super well reviewed here on the forums which is what pushed me to buy from him. I got crickets, no idea why.
 
Very strange
Yup, I still see rave reviews about him, maybe just a fluke?

No real skin off my back, just don’t have the heart to throw the thing away. Maybe one day it’ll find a use.

Glad you got yours figured out though! That neutral ground stuff gets tricky quick. My understanding is basically don’t have a neutral ground bond at the inverter, let that happen at the panel. At least, for my grid connected home that’s the way.
 
Yup, I still see rave reviews about him, maybe just a fluke?

No real skin off my back, just don’t have the heart to throw the thing away. Maybe one day it’ll find a use.

Glad you got yours figured out though! That neutral ground stuff gets tricky quick. My understanding is basically don’t have a neutral ground bond at the inverter, let that happen at the panel. At least, for my grid connected home that’s the way.
 
I have recently found out the the lvm-es has dynamic bonding so thebNG bond screws remain in the inverters themselves
 
I have recently found out the the lvm-es has dynamic bonding so thebNG bond screws remain in the inverters themselves
Does removing “the screw” eliminate this?

My Multiplus-II has a relay to accomplish this, I ended up turning it off and installing a light switch at the panel of our trailer. It’s not up to code, or anything I’d recommend to anyone inexperienced, but it allows me to have physical control depending on whether we’re connecting to something on the grid
 
When they are not connected to the AC input. They create a N/G bond.
This isxa response I got from signature solar


"
The inverter does not create a Neutral-Ground Bond; it creates a path to the Neutral-Ground bond in the panel via the Grounding Screw and an internal relay. Not making the system bond in the panel will eventually damage the system from ineffective grounding.

This is why the icon beside the screw hole has a Ground icon. The screw is a critical part of routing return current and ground voltage to the system bond made at the panel. The breaker panel's ground bus is tied to an Earth Ground with an EGC as well to create that path to the earth."
 
This isxa response I got from signature solar


"
The inverter does not create a Neutral-Ground Bond; it creates a path to the Neutral-Ground bond in the panel via the Grounding Screw and an internal relay. Not making the system bond in the panel will eventually damage the system from ineffective grounding.

This is why the icon beside the screw hole has a Ground icon. The screw is a critical part of routing return current and ground voltage to the system bond made at the panel. The breaker panel's ground bus is tied to an Earth Ground with an EGC as well to create that path to the earth."
And that person doesn't know what they are talking about.
 
And that person doesn't know what they are talking about.
So what about the NG bond in the panel? No grid AC input add NG bonding screw in my panel, when running AC input remove the screw? Or leave the NG screw out of the panel at all times?
 
So what about the NG bond in the panel? No grid AC input add NG bonding screw in my panel, when running AC input remove the screw? Or leave the NG screw out of the panel at all times?
When the AIO does dynamic bonding. You don't add any bonding, ever.
The AIO takes care of it.
 
What kind of damage would have happened with the NG bond screw removed on both units running split phase or single phase? Any shortened life of the units?
 
What kind of damage would have happened with the NG bond screw removed on both units running split phase or single phase? Any shortened life of the units?
Shouldn't be any damage to the units.
But if dynamic bonding is needed. There could be a safety hazard. If you don't have any ground.
 
Trying to figure out if i should try for replacement units just incase, I wasn't sure oif the relay was stuck etc since no NG bond screw was installed, seen lots of people running common neutral with NG bond screws removed to fix some issues, this has all become a huge nightmare
 
Hard to say.
But I would want my money back, if what I purchased didn't function correctly.
 
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