Growatt 3000tl lvm-es N-G screw

[MT off grid]

Okay so that's what I'm getting, of I add the screw back in do I still use my ground to the main house ground? What do I do if I need to use grid power to charge batteries or ad a pass-through

 

[timselectric]

Once connected and running.
It should always be bonded.
When powered from the grid, it's bonded from the grid side.
When running on battery and solar, it's bonded from the internal relay.

 

[MT off grid]

Once connected and running.
It should always be bonded.
When powered from the grid, it's bonded from the grid side.
When running on battery and solar, it's bonded from the internal relay.

 

[timselectric]

do I still use my ground to the main house ground?

Always

 

[MT off grid]

Once connected and running.
It should always be bonded.
When powered from the grid, it's bonded from the grid side.
When running on battery and solar, it's bonded from the internal relay.

 

[timselectric]

What do I do if I need to use grid power to charge batteries

Nothing extra.

or ad a pass-through

?

 

[MT off grid]

So add the screws back in both units, keep main house as my ground, dynamic bond will decide to connect OR disconnect the bond internally? I have been running both inverters without them configured in splitphase, will I still be good to go if they feed half of the panel each

 

[MT off grid]

Nothing extra.


?

 

[MT off grid]

Sorry, started typing and phone exited so apparently it posted that, no clue how to delete it

 

[timselectric]

Sorry, started typing and phone exited so apparently it posted that, no clue how to delete it

Click on "Edit" at the bottom left of your post.

 

[MT off grid]

Nothing extra.


?

 

[MT off grid]

Both screws are back in each unit with the same test results, did you see my previous reply about running both units in the same panel in not splitphase? Also, what about the NG bond in my panel (not house panel but inverter panel) both units would share a common ground bus, common bus but feed separate legs of the panel.

 

[ChrisG]

First half is incorrect.
Second half is correct.

@timselectric , going back a few years I think on this topic. My test GW3000 is always connected to my main service panel(bonded)->AC IN->AC Out->Subpanel (no bond). The GW has the bonding screws taken out. Neutral(s) have continuity on ac in and ac out in passthrough or inverter mode and in either mode, I always have the correct grounding (from main panel) all the way through sub panel because G and N is passed through in either mode.

 

[timselectric]

Also, what about the NG bond in my panel (not house panel but inverter panel

Remove that.
It's a sub panel. So, neutral and ground should be separated.

 

[timselectric]

because G and N is passed through in either mode.

It shouldn't.
Unless the relay has failed, or you installed a neutral jumper between input and output.

On certain units, we always told people to remove the bonding screws, and install the neutral jumper.
But it got generalized for all units.
But it appears (according to Growatt and SS) that removal of the bonding screw on this unit, causes other problems.
The original goal was to omit all possible ground loops, multiple bonds, and objectionable current on the ground conductor.
But if it causes internal problems. That should also be avoided.
One of the things that we were concerned about was when units were stacked in series to produce split-phase. Or in parallel to produce more single phase output. Each unit had its own N/G bond. I'm personally less concerned about this now. Because they are always next to each other. And the wiring between them is usually very short.
As long as the rest of the wiring is done properly. This should never pose a problem.

The ultimate goal is to make sure that each system works properly and safely.

But every unit, location, and specific situation is different. So, this information only pertains to this unit in this situation.

 

 

[ChrisG]

It shouldn't.
Unless the relay has failed, or you installed a neutral jumper between input and output.

On certain units, we always told people to remove the bonding screws, and install the neutral jumper.
But it got generalized for all units.
But it appears (according to Growatt and SS) that removal of the bonding screw on this unit, causes other problems.
The original goal was to omit all possible ground loops, multiple bonds, and objectionable current on the ground conductor.
But if it causes internal problems. That should also be avoided.
One of the things that we were concerned about was when units were stacked in series to produce split-phase. Or in parallel to produce more single phase output. Each unit had its own N/G bond. I'm personally less concerned about this now. Because they are always next to each other. And the wiring between them is usually very short.
As long as the rest of the wiring is done properly. This should never pose a problem.

The ultimate goal is to make sure that each system works properly and safely.

But every unit, location, and specific situation is different. So, this information only pertains to this unit in this situation.

 

I just realized this thread is about the -ES version, I have the earlier version of the 3000 SPF. I thought a jumper was needed early on to have a common neutral but that is not the case in my version. Not having any issues without bonding screws and passing through G/N like it does and never an error.

I know some use these as backup and connect to generator input with an interlock in main breaker. In this case you do not want a bond in the inverter and it should be floating like a portable generator.

 

[MT off grid]

Remove that.
It's a sub panel. So, neutral and ground should be separated.

 

[MT off grid]

Even if I have no AC input the panel is considered a subpanel because the inverters are doing the NG bond now?

 

[timselectric]

Even if I have no AC input the panel is considered a subpanel because the inverters are doing the NG bond now?

I'm getting confused about the information provided.

If I add the screw back in do I still use my ground to the main house ground? What do I do if I need to use grid power to charge batteries or ad a pass-through

 

[MT off grid]

I'm getting confused about the information provided.