IntegraRack: Ground Mount with Epoxy Ground Stakes and Ballast Options

[orion7144]

I mounted my brightmounts with 6x6 posts 3' in ground. No concrete and they work just fine. 2 6x6x8 at $30 each plus lag screws can be cut in half for 2 systems. 1st Brightmount took an hour the second one less than 30 minutes.

 

[jberger]

If there is something specific that you guys want me to look for this year with the racks I am going to review, let me know

Solar Pergolas, I can't speak for anyone else but they seem like the ideal solution for smaller lots and getting them high enough that the lawnmower and weedwacker aren't going to be throwing things at the panels. Plus it gets you a dual use area where you can still have a patio set in the shade while the panels are getting good sun.

 

[G00SE]

Solar Pergolas, I can't speak for anyone else but they seem like the ideal solution for smaller lots and getting them high enough that the lawnmower and weedwacker aren't going to be throwing things at the panels. Plus it gets you a dual use area where you can still have a patio set in the shade while the panels are getting good sun.

The chiko carports look nice. Just wish supplies were cheaper

 

[Drunk Engineer]

My understanding that latest code requires PV wires to be protected behind some type of barrier/conduit. The issue with all these ground-mount kits is that none of them provide this basic feature.

 

[HighTechLab]

My understanding that latest code requires PV wires to be protected behind some type of barrier/conduit. The issue with all these ground-mount kits is that none of them provide this basic feature.

Do you have a reference to the article that requires this? I did a quick search in my book but can't find anything that pertains to pv conductors that are on a ground mount.

 

[Danke]

I mounted my brightmounts with 6x6 posts 3' in ground. No concrete and they work just fine. 2 6x6x8 at $30 each plus lag screws can be cut in half for 2 systems. 1st Brightmount took an hour the second one less than 30 minutes.

Any photo?

 

[42OhmsPA]

My understanding that latest code requires PV wires to be protected behind some type of barrier/conduit. The issue with all these ground-mount kits is that none of them provide this basic feature.

It's a shame this wouldn't suffice


It's really not that hard to run EMT if you keep bends simple. If you can put together a ground mount you could run the EMT.

 

[Drunk Engineer]

It's really not that hard to run EMT if you keep bends simple. If you can put together a ground mount you could run the EMT.

Sure, but if you know how to bend some EMT then you also know how to put together some 4x4 to make your own mount.

 

[Drunk Engineer]

Do you have a reference to the article that requires this? I did a quick search in my book but can't find anything that pertains to pv conductors that are on a ground mount.

690.31(A): "Where PV source and output circuits operating at voltages greater than 30 volts are installed in readily accessible locations, circuit conductors shall be guarded or installed in Type MC cable or in raceway."

 

[42OhmsPA]

Sure, but if you know how to bend some EMT then you also know how to put together some 4x4 to make your own mount.

I used 4x6s, laminated 2x6s and some unistrut . It was my second time working with EMT ( the first being the roof arrays) and my first time really working with strut (it's pretty simple).

 

[glandpuck]

Did you look at Iron Ridge or these?

Solar Panel Racking Systems | Hollaender Mfg Co

Find Your Solar Fittings Speed-Rail® Pipe Fittings for Solar Mounting Systems Hollaender® designs and manufactures structural aluminum pipe fittings…

www.hollaender.com

I used Hollaender connectors when I built our 2 inch galvanized steel schedule 40 pipe based ground arrays. And you get a rock solid array. The procedure is simple: dig a hole, insert your vertical pipe, pour the concrete and plumb the pipe. Do this for the 4 corners of the array. next, run a string between the pipes for each row of the array. If 2 rows, then 2 strings, one for the front row, one for the back row. Then dig the holes for the vertical support pipes between the ends of a row and put the pipe in, pour the concrete and plumb it using the string for alignment with the row end vertical pipes.

After all the verticals are set, run a string from the front row pipe to the back row pipe, using the string and an angle finder to set the array's angle front to back. Mark the posts and cut them off front row is shorter and back row the tallest to create your tilt angle. The pipe cuts like butter with a portable band saw. Next use Hollaender connectors to run your pipes across the tops of the posts in a row. Then use steel strut across the top pipes for your panels to be fastened on to. Ground everything and away you go.

Just a wrench, a level, a portable band saw, tape measure, shovel and cement and a hex wrench set.

 

[42OhmsPA]

I used Hollaender connectors when I built our 2 inch galvanized steel schedule 40 pipe based ground arrays. And you get a rock solid array. The procedure is simple: dig a hole, insert your vertical pipe, pour the concrete and plumb the pipe. Do this for the 4 corners of the array. next, run a string between the pipes for each row of the array. If 2 rows, then 2 strings, one for the front row, one for the back row. Then dig the holes for the vertical support pipes between the ends of a row and put the pipe in, pour the concrete and plumb it using the string for alignment with the row end vertical pipes.

After all the verticals are set, run a string from the front row pipe to the back row pipe, using the string and an angle finder to set the array's angle front to back. Mark the posts and cut them off front row is shorter and back row the tallest to create your tilt angle. The pipe cuts like butter with a portable band saw. Next use Hollaender connectors to run your pipes across the tops of the posts in a row. Then use steel strut across the top pipes for your panels to be fastened on to. Ground everything and away you go.

Just a wrench, a level, a portable band saw, tape measure, shovel and cement and a hex wrench set.

Really debating going this route vs my original tilting plan with old pallet racking for the next array. It's mainly for winter and will be SW facing. The Hollaender will add cost but I have the majority of the piping and could make better use of the racking for a 75-100kWh battery shelf...

Thanks for the review and feedback, seems easy enough.

I'm looking forward to new off the shelf solutions as well as Wills opinion of them, they could be very useful for a somewhat portable system to deploy at an alternative location.

 

[HighTechLab]

690.31(A): "Where PV source and output circuits operating at voltages greater than 30 volts are installed in readily accessible locations, circuit conductors shall be guarded or installed in Type MC cable or in raceway."

Good find!!!

First thought that comes to mind to make things simple is the solar racking rails that have space inside for the wiring. I think the brand was K2 systems...if you ran a rail right inline with the module junction boxes, I think that could count as guarding...



I'm wondering if these revisions I'm seeing in 2023 NEC help here. At least now the rule only applies if the conductors are not guarded. This revision opens pandora's box when it comes to what can be used to guard the conductors, as it does not say what the guards have to be made of. Also now that they added "unqualified persons" - I suppose a fence/gate with a lock around a solar field meets the requirement... I wonder if a barb wire fence counts, those are pretty budget friendly!

 

[orion7144]

Any photo?

 

[12kw_2021]

I used Hollaender connectors when I built our 2 inch galvanized steel schedule 40 pipe based ground arrays. And you get a rock solid array. The procedure is simple: dig a hole, insert your vertical pipe, pour the concrete and plumb the pipe. Do this for the 4 corners of the array. next, run a string between the pipes for each row of the array. If 2 rows, then 2 strings, one for the front row, one for the back row. Then dig the holes for the vertical support pipes between the ends of a row and put the pipe in, pour the concrete and plumb it using the string for alignment with the row end vertical pipes.

After all the verticals are set, run a string from the front row pipe to the back row pipe, using the string and an angle finder to set the array's angle front to back. Mark the posts and cut them off front row is shorter and back row the tallest to create your tilt angle. The pipe cuts like butter with a portable band saw. Next use Hollaender connectors to run your pipes across the tops of the posts in a row. Then use steel strut across the top pipes for your panels to be fastened on to. Ground everything and away you go.

Just a wrench, a level, a portable band saw, tape measure, shovel and cement and a hex wrench set.

DId you have an approved engineering drawing with snow load, and wind speed listed? My local inspector wants the initial plan to have engineering approval stamps, how did you obtain those for your install?

 

[Prefersdirt]

No thanks. It looks ghetto.

Then it would be perfect for my place. My poor neighbors! If you don't want the pics public, would you consider emailing them to me? I have 30 panels to get mounted and need a way to do it without breaking the bank. Please.

 

[42OhmsPA]

Then it would be perfect for my place. My poor neighbors! If you don't want the pics public, would you consider emailing them to me? I have 30 panels to get mounted and need a way to do it without breaking the bank. Please.

Here's one of my favorite.

DIY season adjustable ground mount build

My measly 4.5kW and 1.65kW arrays are a bit undersized for my sol-ark 15k so I'm adding two more arrays of 18 panels each (400-450W bifacials, still need to buy). The rack will be constructed with some c channel pallet rack beams I got for cheap from Facebook marketplace and ironridge XR100...

diysolarforum.com

I copied it with wood and strut.
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/diy-ground-mount-laminated-posts.67728/post-866441

 

[glandpuck]

DId you have an approved engineering drawing with snow load, and wind speed listed? My local inspector wants the initial plan to have engineering approval stamps, how did you obtain those for your install?

I hired a solar engineer to create my plans and take them to the county building office for approval.

 

[y0bailey]

Any photo?

I did the same approach. Super easy install. No concrete. Not going anywhere:

Also, look how fucking terrible my soil is.

 

[robby]

I did the same approach. Super easy install. No concrete. Not going anywhere:

Also, look how fucking terrible my soil is.

View attachment 210837

That is why you don't see many small Ground Mount Kits on the market. People typically just make their own and a lot of times the Wood looks a lot better on the property than metal.
Those 150 MPH ratings are a frigging joke! I have been in 150Mph winds and seen the after math. The stand will probably still be up but the Panels will have gone flying long before it gets to 150Mph. They won't fly away without leaving the Mounts with a lot of damage.