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diy solar

JBD 4S 200A BMS

Do you have a pic of the wiring?
I just had a look in my picture files, i can't find one of just the wiring, i though i had more photos.

But i've got one when it was unfinished, that you can see the switch, i have panels that i can remove to easy access the terminals and fusing.

I've used the same wiring set up on my boat and it never caused me any issues, although that was AGM, it allows switching between batteries without interruption.

just imagine 2 equal lengths of neg cable going back to shunt.IMG_1095.jpg

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While im here, i'll post some pics of the newer 200amp style on a mount from some scrap PETG and some nylon spacers, that i made for my older lithium battery, it might help someone with a visual.

With this mount i just doubled sided taped it with VHB to the cells, bolts are M6 x 10mm

crappy photos, i should have done a better job, but i was in a rush to finish the install.

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What’s your reasoning for using split washers for your BMS bolts?
I use the spring washer due to mobile use, the camper has seen thousands of km on rough corrugated dirt roads, and I’ve found that a spring washer works well to stop the bolts from backing out.

I’ve used the same in boats, due to vibration, I trust spring washers than thread locker in this use on a BMS

There wouldn’t be any need if it was just for a static use
 
Have you looked into Belleville washers? Sounds like you’ve had good success with split washers.

Also the battery enclosure terminals, where do you source them? They look very similar to SOK and I’ve been trying to snag something that isn’t POS.
 
I didn’t even consider Belleville washers, as I already had a few boxes of spring washers, as that’s my go to washer for vibration solutions.

‘I sourced the terminals from aliexpress, I used the 200amp versions, but they have 250 amp version as well

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...116524132941981222e5131!12000020934440865!rec

there are some cheaper blade type inverter style connectors out there, but they are brass, not tinned copper.
 
Thanks for the link those are just the ones I’ve been looking for.

Yeah Belleville washers aren’t as common but apply even pressure to the contact points and are used in higher voltage utility connectors.
 
Thanks for the link those are just the ones I’ve been looking for.

Yeah Belleville washers aren’t as common but apply even pressure to the contact points and are used in higher voltage utility connectors.
I’ve learnt something new, thanks, I’ll look at ordering in some when I do my next stock order
 
So I finally got around to trying to assemble my battery pack (4S) LF280K for my lead acid leisure battery replacement. I was just wondering what kind of mains charger and what voltage you'd all recommend as the current "charge and forget" I have wired up in the van does not support LiPo4 batteries typically. I've built a box that compresses the broad side of the cells, however the narrow side is currently open (may expanding foam in there for insulation). They are sat on top of a heat mat which has the high temperature cut off switch underneath the cells. I also have a renogy dc-dc 60a charger to replace the current VSR setup. Hoping to get it all switched over and installed in the next couple of weeks, just waiting on some M6 crimps to arrive for the cell balancing harness and main battery wiring. Then comes the fun of setting voltage cut offs in the BMS :D.
 
This post is a good place to start for charging profiles.

 
I am getting a couple of Basen Green 460Ah @ 12v packs that have this BMS installed. In looking at the specs, it appears that the range of values is pretty small. For instance, it says that the Discharge protection is limited to 2.4v - 2.6v and I like to set mine at 3.0v so that I have some "reserve capacity" remaining after I get a LVC event to cover emergency needs. It is not possible to raise the LVC limit to 3.0v?
 
I like to set mine at 3.0v so that I have some "reserve capacity" remaining after I get a LVC event to cover emergency needs.
This isn't what a BMS was designed to do (its designed to prevent exceeding the safety limits of the battery).
What you are expecting to do is managing your battery usage which is what a battery protect is designed to do.
 
This isn't what a BMS was designed to do (its designed to prevent exceeding the safety limits of the battery).
What you are expecting to do is managing your battery usage which is what a battery protect is designed to do.
Absolutely true. If you have an inverter, the disconnect voltage of the inverter should leave whatever 'reserve' you want. If you need to tap the reserve, re-adjust the disconnect voltage.
 
Absolutely true. If you have an inverter, the disconnect voltage of the inverter should leave whatever 'reserve' you want. If you need to tap the reserve, re-adjust the disconnect voltage.
To clarifiy, true that LVC cannot be set higher than 2.6v?

On my boat, I do not have a big inverter, so my loads are a bunch of 12v stuff like fridge, freezer, diesel heater, etc. I cannot set a LVC for them so like to set the BMS to 3.0 so it will shut down while there is still a decent number Ah left. If that happens which I am traveling, I can manually shut off all demains except for the navigational epuipment until I can get some recharging done.
 
While you could use the BMS LVD like that, it may work better to put in something like the Victron Battery Protect to cut off the loads at 12.0 volts. You would not use the Battery Protect on the circuit to the inverter.
 
While you could use the BMS LVD like that, it may work better to put in something like the Victron Battery Protect to cut off the loads at 12.0 volts. You would not use the Battery Protect on the circuit to the inverter.
I looked up the Victron Battery Protect and it looks like it might do the trick so downloaded the manual. I am sure that there must be a way to set the cutoff voltage, but the manual doesn't say anything about that. How do you program it? It does not have Bluetooth which would be the obvious method.
 
I looked up the Victron Battery Protect and it looks like it might do the trick so downloaded the manual. I am sure that there must be a way to set the cutoff voltage, but the manual doesn't say anything about that. How do you program it? It does not have Bluetooth which would be the obvious method.

The smart version of the Battery Protect can be set at one of the preset levels, or you can provide a set of values yourself. The non-smart version has only the preset levels, which may not be ideal for you. I have the smart version, so my assessment of the non-smart version's capabilities may be off.
 
It does not have Bluetooth which would be the obvious method.
Yes, In the Bluetooth app there are several presets. In addition, there is a "User Defined' setting that allows you to set it to whatever you want.

Note: You can download and run the Victron Connect app without the actual unit. The app has a 'Demo library' that lets you select a device and allows you to run the app as if it is connected to an actual device. Very handy for talking others through using the app or just exploring what is in the app.
 
However a Victron battery protect is not for an inverter: they can't handle the inrush current. They are for small loads. (clearly stated in their manuals)

For an inverter you can configure the low-voltage thresholds within the inverter itself. However, this can't be configured on many models. On the Victron inverters, you can adjust this.

Or you need to use a remote on/off port controlled by the batteryprotect. Not for switching the high current wires.

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