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MPP LV6548 Ground/Neutral Safety?

This is the reply I received from Watts247. The link he provided is about the Growatt issue on YouTube, but says the LV6548's bonding screw is in same position to those in the 8018max.

Like Growatt, the MPPs are NOT UL/US Compatible out of the box.
 

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I noticed there is voltage between ground and neutral on my LV6548 that has the old firmware. The new firmware LV6548 has 0V between ground and neutral.

I am updating the firmware and keeping the ground and neutrals separate. I could open it up and remove the screw, then bond in the panel, but I do not see the point because the ac output is in series. If they were in parallel, I would see more purpose to bonding in the panel. Well, I guess it depends on how you plan to use your units. I am not using the ac input.
 
Please see this thread on this issue. The issues Dan ran into had to do with an extra grounding leg. Please be very cautious modifying these units unless you thoroughly understand the purposes of bonding and earthing

Thanks for posting this! Apologies for starting a new thread about something already under discussion. I did search the forum for before posting, but missed this thread.
 
I noticed there is voltage between ground and neutral on my LV6548 that has the old firmware. The new firmware LV6548 has 0V between ground and neutral.

I am updating the firmware and keeping the ground and neutrals separate. I could open it up and remove the screw, then bond in the panel, but I do not see the point because the ac output is in series. If they were in parallel, I would see more purpose to bonding in the panel. Well, I guess it depends on how you plan to use your units. I am not using the ac input.
Hi Will,

Can you post a wiring diagram of your LV6548 setup?
 
I noticed there is voltage between ground and neutral on my LV6548 that has the old firmware. The new firmware LV6548 has 0V between ground and neutral.

I am updating the firmware and keeping the ground and neutrals separate. I could open it up and remove the screw, then bond in the panel, but I do not see the point because the ac output is in series. If they were in parallel, I would see more purpose to bonding in the panel. Well, I guess it depends on how you plan to use your units. I am not using the ac input.
Thanks Will! Can you share what the latest firmware revision is? Just now ordering 2 LV6548s an will have to check firmware first thing.
 
I noticed there is voltage between ground and neutral on my LV6548 that has the old firmware. The new firmware LV6548 has 0V between ground and neutral.

I am updating the firmware and keeping the ground and neutrals separate. I could open it up and remove the screw, then bond in the panel, but I do not see the point because the ac output is in series. If they were in parallel, I would see more purpose to bonding in the panel. Well, I guess it depends on how you plan to use your units. I am not using the ac input.
I have been trying to get firmware updates from MPP for a year! Both of my 2x inverters have 2 different firmware versions and I wanted to get them on the same page. Could you share that update?
 
I have been trying to get firmware updates from MPP for a year! Both of my 2x inverters have 2 different firmware versions and I wanted to get them on the same page. Could you share that update?
I am receiving a laptop to do this today (did not want to run cables everywhere) and I have the adapter. Will try to get it to work and then report back here. Hopefully it is easy but I'll find out soon.
 
I understood that the MPP LV6548s were manufactured for compatibility with the US 240Vac Split Phase standards, until I found this post on youtube:


This homeowner DIYer only has Neutral bonded at his Mains panel, but metering ground loop voltage/current when the LV6548s are in Utility Mode. Seems these Inverters are bonding N & G when "utility" is prioritized. I was going to order 4 LV6548s....anyone else experiencing this? Thanks!


Dan posted here about the issue. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lv6548-grounding-issues.21531/

What seemed to have occurred (and you should look at his AC wiring video) was he was running the EGC from a junction box with other EGC's that were ganged on a busbar. He had created a loop somewhere and was getting the feedback from it.

The solution was running the EGC directly from the LV6548 to the main panel and the objectionable current disappeared.
 
To check for a double n/g connection. You have to measure the ground wire current between the suspected n/g connections.
Correct, measuring voltage between a neutral and ground circuit is really pointless due to N-G bond. If voltage is present, there either is a poor connection or no N-G bond.

Current on ground is what needs to be measured.
 
Got ya. I call the subpanel, that which feeds 240 into the inverters and a critical loads panel the load distribution panel being supplied by the inverters. Don't know if that's correct residential terminology...lol.

I've seen numerous posts wherein DIYers don't use separate sub/load panels (see my modifications to your drawing above). You can do this if an AC Service transfer switch is used electrically. Many DIYers videos on YT just employing a breaker in their Mains panel to supply the inverters out to their loads panel also. I'll have to re-watch the YouTuber's video I first posted, but I believe he is connected thru a shared "subpanel."
No, it is not shared. He has a transfer switch to direct power either from grid to his subpanel or from the inverters.

I suggest a 3 pole double throw to switch neutral also due to N-G bond. I do not recommend removal of a screw, that defeats the purpose and intent of bonding at the inverter under inverter power.
 
Like Growatt, the MPPs are NOT UL/US Compatible out of the box
slow your roll partner. You're right about the 6548 not being UL Listed, but it is designed for the US market unlike the EU version Growatts. There is NOTHING that needs to be modified in the LV6548 to make it function perfectly well as either a 120 Volt Single Phase or a 240 Volt Split Phase power source. You simply need to wire it correctly making sure to Switch the Neutrals if you attach it to an AC source, and to NOT create a N-G Bond in the panel it services. If you're running multiple units you also need to make sure you do not create ground loops. As mentioned in the other thread I linked too MPP does NOT support the tying of an input neutral to an output neutral in any event, although their reasoning is suspect.. Yes the screw is removable, yes their "may" be a case for doing so in a splitphase environment, but it the unit is not "incompatible out of the box"
 
This is the reply I received from Watts247. The link he provided is about the Growatt issue on YouTube, but says the LV6548's bonding screw is in same position to those in the 8018max.

Like Growatt, the MPPs are NOT UL/US Compatible out of the box.
Conforms to UL1741 under TUVus. You do know what TUVus is? https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=266418

Are you trolling here or what?
 
I am receiving a laptop to do this today (did not want to run cables everywhere) and I have the adapter. Will try to get it to work and then report back here. Hopefully it is easy but I'll find out soon.
Mr. P I too would be interested in knowing where to obtain the update though I'm not sure I'll apply it. Does MPP maintain a change-log of their firmware versions? The manual on page 26 describes a process for updating directly from a USB disk that is OTG compatible.

I would also enjoy a video on the upgrade process should you feel so inclined
 
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I just got off the phone with Watts247. The tech there said there IS a bonding screw within the LV6548s that needs to be removed for US split-phase 240 operations, when using grid bypass....same as Growatts, so not truly US or UL out of the box.

Seems that removing the bonding screw within the inverters, and jumpering AC In/Out Terminal Neutrals will solve the issue. Followed up with email and will share any written reply.

Paul West
Thu 3/3/2022 1:21 PM


To:


Hi,

I just got off the phone with your tech there. He said there IS a bonding screw within the LV6548s that needs to be removed for US split-phase 240Vac operations, when using grid bypass (Utility Priority setting), and that this won't invalidate the warranties. Can you provide either schematic or drawing of the exact location of the bonding screw? I wish to order 2 sets of your dual LV6548 inverters, need to need to know this first.

Others are experiencing ground loop current from these inverters and posting such on YouTube and DIY solar forums. It seems that the LV6548s have no issues when supplied by either solar or batteries. But when powered by Utility, the AC Output inverter panel terminals short N & G. This is not US/UL compatible!

Unless a special case (separately derived system as defined by the NEC), only the initial mains panel can be the single neutral to ground bond point. If I can remove the bonding screw (knowing exactly which one), then placing a jumper conductor between the inverter's AC In/Out Neutral terminals will then properly function within a US 240Vac split phase configuration.

Paul West
This video shows the screw...
 
Conforms to UL1741 under TUVus. You do know what TUVus is? https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=266418

Are you trolling here or what?
Everyone "else" here has been awesome & helpful. Don't know why YOU ask if I'm a troll...smdh! Simply, I watched Will's video on the LV6548s (wherein he said these worked within the US out of the box...unlike the Growatts), did some checking here (I haven't posted since joining a year ago until this thread), and came across a YouTuber with issues. Since this is where the best info is that I've found for DIYers, I posted and asked. I have discovered an existing problem when passing thru utility, employing an NEC Required N/G bond from the Mains source. I reasonably "assumed" that a DIY Forum was the place to ASK QUESTIONS.

Regarding TUVs, no I haven't researched. I know it's US OSHA accepted and is considered equivalent to UL for a National Testing Lab. Not being a Code Compliance Engineer, researching further is a waste of my time.

So, if that's trolling to you, that's not my problem nor care!
 
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This video shows the screw...
Simply run grounds to the input side to each inverter so each is properly earthed. Run a single ground from the AC output of 1 (and only 1) of your split-phase units to the panel they service. Just 1. Do not bond at the panel

Simple complete grounding, with no loops and no screws removed
 
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Simply run grounds on in input side to each computer so each is properly earthed. Run a single ground from the AC output of 1 (and only 1) of your split-phase units to the panel they service. Just 1. Do not bond at the panel

Simple complete grounding, with no loops and no screws removed
Thanks!
 
Timing is everything... Just so happens I have enough panels in place as of today to test this... Two LV 6548's, off-grid, wired for split phase 240. Everything is mounted and wired but hasn't been powered up yet. EG4-LL's in place too. Everything is in a shipping container [pics tomorrow] and the panel currently has N/G bonded. It sounds as is the simple fix is to remove the bond in the panel and let the inverters handle it. Not clear on
- A jumper wire between AC neutral IN and OUT
-Removing the screw from the 2nd LV6548.
or, if I leave the bond in the panel, remove both screws, and then run a "real" ground wire from the inverters? This is all a brand new setup, so I'm willing to do some testing.
 
A jumper wire between AC neutral IN and OUT
No - MPP does not support any connection between neutral in and out, not needed. These units require a dedicated loads panel. Do not use a pro-tran type transfer switch to feed them back into your main panel and share the neutrals. If you want to also bring AC directly to your loads panel you'll need an x-fer solution that switches neutral. See the thread I linked to earlier (and several others for that matter) for a nauseatingly repetitive discussion of this topic

Removing the screw from the 2nd LV6548.
Not required unless you insist on bonding in your dedicated loads panel. You say your loads panel is bonded, if so and if you have no AC input planned (AC Input would eventually come from another bonded source so that would be bad if you had a bond in your loads panel) then yes you should remove the screws from all units.

However look at this alternative with no bond in the load panel
1646432714281.png
 
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