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Newer models of EG4 6500ex are built without the bonding screw

I don’t have the screw in either unit. But other then that they are wired roughly the same way. I don’t see a problem removing the bonding screw. I’m just saying, don’t install a new board and expect better results after removing the screw. Because it’ll fry again.
You could always put the screws back in with the common neutral and we could find out. ;)

There is a possibility something else is amiss. I was just looking at his diagram again and PV is bi facial panels with a max of 15.16A per string of 4 but only see 2 of the SCC's being used and he has 3 strings.
 
You could always put the screws back in with the common neutral and we could find out. ;)

There is a possibility something else is amiss. I was just looking at his diagram again and PV is bi facial panels with a max of 15.16A per string of 4 but only see 2 of the SCC's being used and he has 3 strings.
I was wondering if those were actually the stats to his panels. Or if he just pulled it from another page. Assuming it is, that may be where the problem lies. I still think it’s something on the ac side of things by his original description of when the boards fried.

If it is the pv then that would certainly be an easy fix.
 
I'm not sure that the confusion is "resolved". We just ordered a second set of EG-4 6500s. I called support to see if they would pre-flash or install bonding screws before shipping. Apparently this has been asked before, but I was told I'd get a call back.

What they did tell me is that they ship with bonding screws. I provided my 2/2023 order number and offered photos to show no screw installed. Again, they're checking into it.
 
I'm not sure that the confusion is "resolved". We just ordered a second set of EG-4 6500s. I called support to see if they would pre-flash or install bonding screws before shipping. Apparently this has been asked before, but I was told I'd get a call back.

What they did tell me is that they ship with bonding screws. I provided my 2/2023 order number and offered photos to show no screw installed. Again, they're checking into it.
Did you ask for their email so you could send them the video on YT stating that the screws were now removed?
 
Did you ask for their email so you could send them the video on YT stating that the screws were now removed?
No, but I mentioned that they had a video referencing their removal. If we're referencing their "grounding" video (which was pretty darn good) - it doesn't actually show disassembly of the inverter.
 
Yeah I was talking about the bonding video.

Link below is set to the exact timestamp of the "bonding screws removed" comment.

 
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Maybe it's just me, but.........
Shouldn't have to send "them" a link to "their" video. Explaining what "they" should know about "their" equipment.
I know if I have to send it, they will definitely feel quite small when I'm done berating them for not knowing the video exists.

Must be an interesting place to work, they must run around like chickens with their feathers on fire all making the same clucking sound.

What probably needs to occur is for the owner (James) to step aside and let a real professional take over running the company. It's been a disaster when it comes to support.

Hear the same crap, "we are working on improving support" but it's really been long enough. Shit or get off the pot.

I had them drop my support ticket for 2 reasons, one, would be a waste of my time. Two, the support/technical people working there do not have any knowledge of the product.

If someone's decision to purchase from SS depended on support, I'd tell them to go elsewhere.

One more thing, the recent video by Will about the M inverter showed him being able to call up SS and get answers quickly. I think he should have had to suffer thru what most members have to go thru when it comes to support. Would certainly make for an interesting video, wouldn't you think?
 
One more thing, the recent video by Will about the M inverter showed him being able to call up SS and get answers quickly. I think he should have had to suffer thru what most members have to go thru when it comes to support. Would certainly make for an interesting video, wouldn't you think?
There was a gap in the video.
So, not sure how long it took to get through.
 
Is there a way to check (using a meter) to see if the bonding screw is installed or not ?
I really don't want to take the unit apart if I don't have to.
Thanks
 
Is there a way to check (using a meter) to see if the bonding screw is installed or not ?
I really don't want to take the unit apart if I don't have to.
Thanks
I believe if you power down the unit you should be able to take a multi-meter and set it to "continuity check" and see if there's continuity between the AC Out Ground and the AC Out Neutral.

Depending on how you have things wired up, you may need to disconnect the neutral from your AC Out and AC In to make sure you're checking for a bond in the inverter and not a bond coming from a separate breaker panel.
 
Is there a way to check (using a meter) to see if the bonding screw is installed or not ?
I really don't want to take the unit apart if I don't have to.
Thanks
I asked that same question. I felt like a dumbass.
With all the wires off, check for continuity between neutral and ground on the outputs. If there is continuity, you've got a ground screw.
 
I asked that same question. I felt like a dumbass.
With all the wires off, check for continuity between neutral and ground on the outputs. If there is continuity, you've got a ground screw.
Ok I checked and the ground is connected to the neutral :( (0.00 ohms) . So now I have to remove the bonding screws. Can someone tell me what to remove to get to the bonding screw?
Thanks
 
Ok I checked and the ground is connected to the neutral :( (0.00 ohms) . So now I have to remove the bonding screws. Can someone tell me what to remove to get to the bonding screw?
Thanks
So you have a grid charge application? (your sig mentions the chargeverter, which is often a generator solution)
Just making sure.

I see someone posted a video!
 
So you have a grid charge application? (your sig mentions the chargeverter, which is often a generator solution)
Just making sure.

I see someone posted a video!
I have a whole house propane generator. The chargeverter is only used to charge the batteries using the generator in a grid down situation. (I haven't tried it yet.) I did test the chargeverter (using the grid) and it works. Probably should just use the EG4's to charge the batteries from the generator. Someone mentioned that the generator power is dirty and might not be good for the EG4's. I don't know if this is valid or not. I might have wasted $400 on the chargeverter, who knows ?
 
I have a whole house propane generator. The chargeverter is only used to charge the batteries using the generator in a grid down situation. (I haven't tried it yet.) I did test the chargeverter (using the grid) and it works. Probably should just use the EG4's to charge the batteries from the generator. Someone mentioned that the generator power is dirty and might not be good for the EG4's. I don't know if this is valid or not. I might have wasted $400 on the chargeverter, who knows ?
Then I think you need that N/G bond. Leave it. Your inverters are your "main" and the main is N/G bonded.
You never tie your inverters to grid power as you're charging from the chargeverter. Meaning you are NOT using your inverter AC inputs.
Note, my opinion changes if your inverters input is on the grid.

I have a 20KW generator and it's clean/stable enough for everything so far. The issue isn't so much that it's bad for the inverters (may be true) - it's that inverters are sensitive to frequency variation and may lock out a "dirty" source. The chargeverter is designed to solve that as it can charge on "dirty power".
 
Then I think you need that N/G bond. Leave it. Your inverters are your "main" and the main is N/G bonded.
If the "stationary" firmware is used, the bonding screw should be removed and a bond should be added someplace else in the system.

If the Mobile firmware is used the bonding screw should be in place, any AC input needs to be bonded, and there should be no bond added on the AC output.

For stationary installs, I prefer removing the bonding screw and using the stationary software.
 
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