Texas-Mark
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He did up in the first post.
And info on the panels:
DC/Charger Volt Compatible 12v, 24v, 48v
| Rated Power Output | 355 |
| Voltage (VOC) | 40.6V |
please help! New panels putting out very little energy
- Thread starter Gracie8
- Start date
And info on the panels:
DC/Charger Volt Compatible 12v, 24v, 48v
Well… he listed the VOC, but not the vmp… I have never seen a panel rated at 12/24/48 no way a 40.6V panel can support a 48V SCC…
LONGI 355W LR4-HPB is a 120 cell solar panel, which combines high efficiency and low LID mono PERC cells. This module has a 35mm lightweight frame resilient enough to withstand 5400Pa load and 25mm hailstones at the speed of 23 m/s.
- 355W Power Output
- 120 Cell, Monocrystalline, Half-Cut Technology
- 19.5% Module Efficiency
- Low LID mono PERC cells
- 1000 Volts Max Voltage
DC/Charger Volt Compatible - 12v
- 24v
- 48v
Texas-Mark
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Where did you see that? Do you have more specs than what was posted earlier? I had mentioned to wire them all in parallel based on the 24V input spec listed earlier.
It is the last number in the charge controller section of his spec he posted… VOC 70V
Texas-Mark
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I agree, and have never seen that sort of rating. Probably confused the OPer as much as everyone else.
Texas-Mark
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Ok, I see that. Still should not be running the panels in series for that controller, correct?
Bud Martin
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OP post #1
All-in-one Inverter(3000W 24V Inverter+80A controller)
Build-in 80A Controller Part
Solar Charge Mode: PWM
Solar Panel Wattage: up to 2800W
Rated Input Voltage: 24V DC
Open Circuit Voltage: 70V
wattmatters
Solar Wizard
Those two specs are not compatible. A Longi 355W panel will have a Voc of ~40V and Vmp of ~35V.
If your solar controller has a maximal input voltage of 24V then you are not going to have a good outcome with those panels. Hard to know as that input voltage seems low, given inverter spec also says for solar input limit:
In any case the Voc of those panels means you cannot place them in series with that inverter's solar input Voc limit. If you are lucky the inverter's over voltage protection has saved the inverter from damage but that's no guarantee.
At best you can put them in parallel but 4 x Longi 355W in parallel is a lot of current, like about 41A at Vmp.
I'd want to validate the exact model and specifications of the inverter but I suspect the panels and inverter are a poor match.
I appreciate you confirming what I have begun to suspect about the controller/inverter not being a good match. I can replace it and return thio one as long as its not damaged. Thanks for the info that I can't use that 5th panel with this inverter/controller even with them in parallel. I am copying the specs from the merchant website, so I'm not making any typos or mistakes. I can go out to the manufacturer's website to confirm them there to be sure the merchant didn't make an error.
Most likely the discrepancy in voltages is simple translation issues…
It is designed for 24V batteries, and the VOC max is 70V…
Texas-Mark
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Yes, that is the way I read it.
mikefitz
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I would think the unit needs a 24v Battery to be connected so the PWM controller can function correctly, however the information provided suggests that the unit will operate without a battery.
The maximum input from the panels is 70 volts, it seems you exceeded that and may have caused damage.
The panels you have are 10 amps at 33 volts with a OC voltage of 40 volts.
Connect in parallel, this will give a maximum solar input of 240 watts per panel, 960 for the 4 in parallel, and a maximum charge current into the 24 volt battery of 40 amps.
The OPs measurements on the panels I suspect are voltage measurements.
The information provided on the all in one is not clear and confusing.
Its not surprising that the OP is having issues.
Mike
The maximum input from the panels is 70 volts, it seems you exceeded that and may have caused damage.
The panels you have are 10 amps at 33 volts with a OC voltage of 40 volts.
Connect in parallel, this will give a maximum solar input of 240 watts per panel, 960 for the 4 in parallel, and a maximum charge current into the 24 volt battery of 40 amps.
The OPs measurements on the panels I suspect are voltage measurements.
The information provided on the all in one is not clear and confusing.
Its not surprising that the OP is having issues.
Mike
wiseacre
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OP needs
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0..._in_one_inverter_instruction.pdf?v=1609313709
It makes my brain hurt the way it was written.
The inverter looks like an Eco Worthy model. OP needs to confirm if it is, and if so this is the manual:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0..._in_one_inverter_instruction.pdf?v=1609313709
It makes my brain hurt the way it was written.
Texas-Mark
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I took a quick look at that and here is my take.
It does need a battery to work.
The panels should be ok since it says:
"Solar panels with a maximum input voltage of 36V"
So, IMO the OPer should get his 24v battery bank, connect those. Then rewire the panels in parallel and give it a go. It will either work or not.
My situation is I have two ladies over 85 in my home. I live in a town that can see temps of 118 on a normal year. This has been a very hot year. California is threatening black outs. summer doesn't end here til
l mid October. I bought solar not to save money but to protect the comfort of my household. Tomorrow could be a crisis, so waiting for shipping is a problem.
So with that in mind, how about I cover some of the panels cells with cardboard to lower the watts and volts and gets some more cord to plug either the 4 or 5 panels into the all in one controller/inverter in parallel, if it is still operational. Then if I can get some specs on what I need to replace the all in one, I can shop knowing I can keep an area of the house temperature under 90. I would like to use either the 4 or the 5 panels to create as much watts as needed to run a smaller but not mini fridge, a swamp cooler that takes 1050 watts to run and a light. If possible a few hours on a small tv with cable box and roku.
I think most my wires are 6 gauge if that figures into anything. The battery cables to connect them together are 2- 6 gauge cables linked together at the ring connections. And the cables to and from the batteries look like 4 gauge. I can move this over to a different forum but wondered if you all would be interested in weighing in.
l mid October. I bought solar not to save money but to protect the comfort of my household. Tomorrow could be a crisis, so waiting for shipping is a problem.
So with that in mind, how about I cover some of the panels cells with cardboard to lower the watts and volts and gets some more cord to plug either the 4 or 5 panels into the all in one controller/inverter in parallel, if it is still operational. Then if I can get some specs on what I need to replace the all in one, I can shop knowing I can keep an area of the house temperature under 90. I would like to use either the 4 or the 5 panels to create as much watts as needed to run a smaller but not mini fridge, a swamp cooler that takes 1050 watts to run and a light. If possible a few hours on a small tv with cable box and roku.
I think most my wires are 6 gauge if that figures into anything. The battery cables to connect them together are 2- 6 gauge cables linked together at the ring connections. And the cables to and from the batteries look like 4 gauge. I can move this over to a different forum but wondered if you all would be interested in weighing in.
Can I add the fifth panel in parallel? Can I add two more batteries.
Yes. That is right. It is awkward. But I'd be confused no matter what.
So, wiring just 4 in parallel will not accomplish the perhaps life saving goal of running the swamp cooler for at least 4 hours which takes 1050 watts. I need to add the 5th panel, if that isnt going to dmage the combo unit. What do you think? I don't understand all the numbers. Sorry.
Maybe if I can add the second set of batteries that are coming in about a week I could charge those 4 up before 11 and get the cooler running for 5 hours.
If niether of those are a safe bet to not harm the current controller, then I'll have to look at a controller/inverter today to replace and then I would want to maximize the use of these panels. Amazon is often fast. Any guidance on specs would help.
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Thank you so much for all your time and help. I can't hook the system up in parallel till I order more cords and until I know if it's at all feasible to run the cooler for 5 hours a day without harming this inverter, I dont know if I need more cords to wire in parallel to this combo unit or if I am just having to replace it and run in series parallel with the new controller/inverter.
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Texas-Mark
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I am not familiar with that "all in one" unit, but like most others, the inverter part gets power from the batteries and then the panels either recharge the batteries, and/or supplements the batteries. So in full sun your 4 panels will barely be able to provide the power for the cooler. But that is what the batteries are for. The more batteries, the more load they can take up. Maybe someone else can run the exact numbers to be a bit more accurate. Adding a fifth panel in parallel won't hurt the combo unit. The unit will only draw as much power as it is able to. But as someone else noted, the cabling will need to be beefy.
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