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Power of lightning

Lightning strikes a tree and causes sparks to fly from nearby chain link fence pipe joints. Most likely due to ground induced potential. This is why you want to bond everything and never have multiple unbonded ground rods.

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From here: Tiktock also FOXweather.
In my OPINION, this is why you want to have NOTHING connected to ground at all, whatsoever. However, this may be only possible for someone who has an entirely off-grid system.

I've shared my experience before in another thread, but suffice to say, I was bitten by having installed a very good ground rod--and the only damaged equipment in the house happened to be the only equipment plugged into that grounded plug I had made. Nothing else was grounded, and nothing else was damaged. For perspective, this happened to me in Laos, where virtually nothing is ever grounded. Perhaps I learned the reason why.

If you are going to ground something, ground the lightning rod, and make sure that the lightning rod is more attractive to lightning than anything else in your system. If you ground anything else, then, as @pollenface implies, perhaps you better ground EVERYTHING--and hope for the best. I have yet to experience any issues from NOT grounding, so long as nothing is grounded that is connected to my off-grid system--and this accounts for years of experience, weathering electrical storms during the monsoon season.

DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician, and am not qualified to give advice on this subject: I present only my experience-educated opinion.
 
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In my OPINION, this is why you want to have NOTHING connected to ground at all, whatsoever. However, this may be only possible for someone who has an entirely off-grid system.

I've shared my experience before in another thread, but suffice to say, I was bitten by having installed a very good ground rod--and the only damaged equipment in the house happened to be the only equipment plugged into that grounded plug I had made. Nothing else was grounded, and nothing else was damaged. For perspective, this happened to me in Laos, where virtually nothing is ever grounded. Perhaps I learned the reason why.

If you are going to ground something, ground the lightning rod, and make sure that the lightning rod is more attractive to lightning than anything else in your system. If you ground anything else, then, as @pollenface implies, perhaps you better ground EVERYTHING--and hope for the best. I have yet to experience any issues from NOT grounding, so long as nothing is grounded that is connected to my off-grid system--and this accounts for years of experience, weathering electrical storms during the monsoon season.

DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician, and am not qualified to give advice on this subject: I present only my experience-educated opinion.
Ground your system and buy a safe-t-cut RCBO(1500thb)for your home these have a built in SPD that protects your home and electronics from surges and the RCBO+grounding prevents poorly trained Thai electricians from killing you and your family.
 
Ground your system and buy a safe-t-cut RCBO(1500thb)for your home these have a built in SPD that protects your home and electronics from surges and the RCBO+grounding prevents poorly trained Thai electricians from killing you and your family.
Thank you for that information--I'm looking for a good GFCI device for an entire building....however, that is a separate issue from that of grounding for lightning. A good GFCI breaker does not actually need to be grounded to function, if I'm not mistaken. It cuts power based on an inequality of current flow between the hot and neutral lines, which should only occur if something is grounding unexpectedly, causing a portion of the outgoing current to fail to return. (Perhaps a certified electrician can explain it better and/or correct me if this is incorrect.)
 
Lightning is a "surge" (the big one) ... surge levels can be described as:

1. lightning strike (could be direct hit, could be over the ground via nearby strike)
- a lightning protection system (LPS) is needed here
2. grid surge (could be grid equipment event, could be lightning-strike on grid equipment & wiring)
- a level-1 Surge Protection Device (SPD) is needed here
3. equipment surges (micro-surges on up), from anything in your home
- level 2 and 3 SPD's are needed here

If you are grid-connected, you are subject to all 3 types of surges above. If off-grid (as I am), you are subject to 1 and 3.

Most folks have a grounded (to earth) system via electrician-installed (or possibly diy-installed) electrical wiring systems, but perhaps not as many have the appropriate levels of surge protection in place for 2 and 3, and rare is the person who has surge protection in place for 1 (a lightning protection system).

An electrician installed your wiring system, so it must have everything you would ever need, already in place ... right? And besides, who ever gets hit by lightning? These two things, and lack of yearly inspections, allow for the state of electrical surge protection today. No improvements get added to the system (SPD's), no information is provided (LPS sales, as this is mostly optional) ... years could go by before something gets done, and/or an event causes some level of awareness and then change.

Inspect the grounding system every year (physical inspection, measurement device), checking for poorly designed ground systems, improper ground connections, effective grounding, changes, etc. Inspect the SPD's every year (more often if they offer a visual indicator), checking for proper installation & operation, and whether or not they're still effective (have capacity to take more surges, or have lost capacity and can't take any more).

Note: for extra credit, look at commercial installations and everything they do, and consider why something to appropriate scale isn't done at your home; if it's good enough for them (and mostly *required*), why isn't it good enough for your family? For extra extra credit, consider EMP's, and what one might do about it.

Hope this helps ...
 
An electrician installed your wiring system, so it must have everything you would ever need, already in place ... right?
From my experience it's very rare for this to be true here in Thailand, even the government run electricity supplier occasionally swaps live and neutral on the transformer for our local community just to keep me on my toes.
 
each fence post is set into ground, but since each is different distance from the strike, they are all at different potential, the top rail passes through fence top rings - not solidly connected to each post - and becomes the gap for those various potentials to jump. Interesting.
If the top rail was solidly fixed (electrically) to each post, we may not have seen any fireworks.
 
each fence post is set into ground, but since each is different distance from the strike, they are all at different potential, the top rail passes through fence top rings - not solidly connected to each post - and becomes the gap for those various potentials to jump. Interesting.
If the top rail was solidly fixed (electrically) to each post, we may not have seen any fireworks.
Science is fun.

Until it blows your socks off and sets your trees in fire.
 
Lightning strikes a tree and causes sparks to fly from nearby chain link fence pipe joints. Most likely due to ground induced potential. This is why you want to bond everything and never have multiple unbonded ground rods.

View attachment 231884

From here: Tiktock also FOXweather.
That is a pretty bad ass picture!

each fence post is set into ground, but since each is different distance from the strike, they are all at different potential, the top rail passes through fence top rings - not solidly connected to each post - and becomes the gap for those various potentials to jump. Interesting.
If the top rail was solidly fixed (electrically) to each post, we may not have seen any fireworks.
100% agree. Just like antenna cables at a tower site. Everything is bonded together.

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In my OPINION, this is why you want to have NOTHING connected to ground at all, whatsoever. However, this may be only possible for someone who has an entirely off-grid system.
Sure if your setup is compact, offgrid and disconnected from utility. But if you got ground mounted panels some distance away from house then ground potential exposure is inevitable.
I've shared my experience before in another thread, but suffice to say, I was bitten by having installed a very good ground rod--and the only damaged equipment in the house happened to be the only equipment plugged into that grounded plug I had made.
That's because your ground rod became main ground for everyone fed by your utility transformer. If you did not have beefy SPD connected to your utility feed and that ground rod then surge induced on AC distribution wire would travel through your UPS and PC equipment into your new ground rod. Not a problem with having ground, just user error.
 
What was my error?
From your other thread:
Trying to do things right, I installed a ground rod at my home--a nice 2-meter-long copper-clad steel rod--and did so at a wet spot on the lower side of the house leading down toward a pond. Even in the poor conductivity of the clay, this rod was well grounded! I then hooked up my computer to a receptacle running off of batteries/inverter to which this ground was added. The very next lightning storm that we had knocked out my UPS, and my computer was worth so much that I was deeply afraid it might have been damaged as well. Fortunately, it wasn't--but I waited a month between sending the UPS back to the manufacturer for repairs and getting it back. My house was probably the only one grounded within a half-kilometer radius, and was made the more vulnerable to storm damage.
I read it again and noticed you had your offgrid setup connected to this ground rod. I thought it was utility fed outlet. Was your computer connected to Ethernet or cable/dsl modem or in any way to a long wire coming from outside? That would create continuity to ground for lightning pulse.
 
From your other thread:

I read it again and noticed you had your offgrid setup connected to this ground rod. I thought it was utility fed outlet. Was your computer connected to Ethernet or cable/dsl modem or in any way to a long wire coming from outside? That would create continuity to ground for lightning pulse.
I guess one of the positives of Starlink (assuming the dish on a long metal pole doesn't act as a big lightning magnet)
 
From your other thread:

I read it again and noticed you had your offgrid setup connected to this ground rod. I thought it was utility fed outlet. Was your computer connected to Ethernet or cable/dsl modem or in any way to a long wire coming from outside? That would create continuity to ground for lightning pulse.
Or if you were using one of these "cheap" MOV based surge protector power strips they divert the surge to the ground line which means it can damage your equipment that way as well. More expensive surge protectors divert to neutral.
 
From your other thread:

I read it again and noticed you had your offgrid setup connected to this ground rod. I thought it was utility fed outlet. Was your computer connected to Ethernet or cable/dsl modem or in any way to a long wire coming from outside? That would create continuity to ground for lightning pulse.
No, there was no external connection. The computer was connected to the internet via its own internal wifi to my router. Actually, it was a Mac Pro and was in a multi-day process of rendering a video for me (so much to that--lost it). In fact, in Laos, I did not even have DSL coming to the house--I was bridging to another building half a kilometer away via a set of Ubiquiti nanostations that connected to my router--which was probably running off the same inverter at the time as was the Mac, but without being explicitly grounded as the Mac was.
Or if you were using one of these "cheap" MOV based surge protector power strips they divert the surge to the ground line which means it can damage your equipment that way as well. More expensive surge protectors divert to neutral.

In my case, the lightning surge seems to have come FROM the ground connection.
 
They are all a voltage trigger device, MOV, Gas discharge, or other devices that have a breakdown voltage. You should have at least 2-3 MOV type devices in your surge arrestor. Antenna Coaxes use gas discharge due to capacitance. MOV for Power use MOV from hot to hot and each hot to ground or for 120v it is neutral to hot, neutral to ground, and hot to ground. They can also incorporate inductance to create a delay in the current giving time for the MOV/Gas discharge to kick in and dissipate the charge.

The goal is get it to the ground where everything is supposed to be bonded together. The hole house can go up to 500V with litter differential between wires/loads and little to nothing will happen because everything went up together. A "difference in potential" fries things.

It is usually something that has two different connections. Cable TV & Utility, Antenna & utility, Phone line & utility, because the other connections weren't bonded to the same ground as the utility. You can substitute your solar with utility. Same principal applies. Just make sure the solar and utility ground are all tied together. This goes for panels and everything.

There is nothing to argue about. Simple fact that has been tested at radio towers and lightning labs. Old subject... Big broadcasters and power companies don't like loosing equipment. They figured this out a long time ago.
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They are all a voltage trigger device, MOV, Gas discharge, or other devices that have a breakdown voltage. You should have at least 2-3 MOV type devices in your surge arrestor. Antenna Coaxes use gas discharge due to capacitance. MOV for Power use MOV from hot to hot and each hot to ground or for 120v it is neutral to hot, neutral to ground, and hot to ground. They can also incorporate inductance to create a delay in the current giving time for the MOV/Gas discharge to kick in and dissipate the charge.

The goal is get it to the ground where everything is supposed to be bonded together. The hole house can go up to 500V with litter differential between wires/loads and little to nothing will happen because everything went up together. A "difference in potential" fries things.

It is usually something that has two different connections. Cable TV & Utility, Antenna & utility, Phone line & utility, because the other connections weren't bonded to the same ground as the utility. You can substitute your solar with utility. Same principal applies. Just make sure the solar and utility ground are all tied together. This goes for panels and everything.

There is nothing to argue about. Simple fact that has been tested at radio towers and lightning labs. Old subject... Big broadcasters and power companies don't like loosing equipment. They figured this out a long time ago.
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Cheers bob I'll be looking to do a proper grounding system when I build my power shed this is a good explanation (current one works to a degree but I'm sure it's not ideal as it was mainly fitted by a Thai "electrician") hopefully I can get yours and Tim's input when it comes time.
 
Make the pole your ground rod!
Yes ground it but don't use the Ethernet coming off the antenna as the lightning path going into the house then the modem where it plugs in the wall outlet. That will get cooked. You need to ground the ethernet via surge suppressor at the pole that is tied back to utility ground. Pole, ethernet surge arrestor, and utility ground (main house ground) are all at the same potential.
 
No, there was no external connection. The computer was connected to the internet via its own internal wifi to my router. Actually, it was a Mac Pro and was in a multi-day process of rendering a video for me (so much to that--lost it). In fact, in Laos, I did not even have DSL coming to the house--I was bridging to another building half a kilometer away via a set of Ubiquiti nanostations that connected to my router--which was probably running off the same inverter at the time as was the Mac, but without being explicitly grounded as the Mac was.


In my case, the lightning surge seems to have come FROM the ground connection.
very common for it to come in or go to the Utility. It's got to so somewhere. Make everything tied together and add some surge suppression. If you are lucky only the surge suppression gets damaged. Sacrificial lamb doing it's job.

For a single appliance or a power strip look for something that has RFI/EMI + surge protection. It will have inductors to help slow down the current change to your device. This makes the MOV's work better and delays the pulse to your equipment.
 
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very common for it to come in or go to the Utility. It's got to so somewhere. Make everything tied together and add some surge suppression. If you are lucky only the surge suppression gets damaged. Sacrificial lamb doing it's job.

For a single appliance or a power strip look for something that has RFI/EMI + surge protection. It will have inductors to help slow down the current change to your device. This makes the MOV's work better and delays the pulse to your equipment.
To be clear, my only "connection" to the utility (if I hadn't unplugged it during the storm--it's been too long ago, and I don't remember now), was the IOTA charger that charged my two large lead-acid batteries. After that, it was an inverter from those batteries that fed my computer. The computer was powered from the inverter, from the batteries, and nothing in the system was grounded except for that plug to the computer to which I had specially added grounding. The devices, like my refrigerator, which were plugged to the grid, were not connected in any way to the inverter circuit--nor were any of the grid-powered devices in the house damaged in the lightning strike. I don't remember seeing the strike, but I sure heard it--it was loud, and sounded like it must have been within about 200 meters' distance from the house. I was very afraid when the computer had gone down that it would have been damaged; but fortunately, the UPS took the hit and spared the computer. (I had a pure sine wave inverter to which the UPS was plugged into that grounded plug, then the computer and its monitor were plugged into the UPS.)
 
To be clear, my only "connection" to the utility (if I hadn't unplugged it during the storm--it's been too long ago, and I don't remember now), was the IOTA charger that charged my two large lead-acid batteries. After that, it was an inverter from those batteries that fed my computer. The computer was powered from the inverter, from the batteries, and nothing in the system was grounded except for that plug to the computer to which I had specially added grounding. The devices, like my refrigerator, which were plugged to the grid, were not connected in any way to the inverter circuit--nor were any of the grid-powered devices in the house damaged in the lightning strike. I don't remember seeing the strike, but I sure heard it--it was loud, and sounded like it must have been within about 200 meters' distance from the house. I was very afraid when the computer had gone down that it would have been damaged; but fortunately, the UPS took the hit and spared the computer. (I had a pure sine wave inverter to which the UPS was plugged into that grounded plug, then the computer and its monitor were plugged into the UPS.)
UPS acted like your surge arrestor. Took one for the team
I took a direct hit to my house and blew antennas off the tower. Naturally my home wasn't built as good as the towers we work on commercially. The radio that was connected to the coax and the tower stilled worked. The computer connected to the radio was cooked. It came in through the cable modem to the computer and through the radio. I have everything bonded together now. Been there done that. My neighbor took a hit via the telephone pole. It blew the cable TV coax off the wall but didn't hurt anything in his home.
 
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