diy solar

diy solar

Solar house generator I started DIY back in 2000 - My path from Trace to Xantrex (on FLA battery) to XW Pro inverters on Tesla Model S batteries

dougbert, thank you for sharing the evolution of your solar system. I'm just about old enough to remember those first solar cells when the silicon could only be cut in the round.
 
This morning, something happened that I have been dreading for several years now - my Trace SW4024 is malfunctioning

My current operational mode:

18 hours a day, running the house off of the LA battery bank. Each day the house consumes some 167 amp-hrs @ 24v. On good sunny days, the batteries are recharged by 1800 hr (6PM) as the sun disappears behind the west mountains. At 6PM I have had the grid auto connection via the inverter and then charge the batteries the rest of the way (if needed) to 100% for 6 hours,until midnight.

Yesterday morning battery was at SOC 85%. Last night I checked the grid was connected and charging the battery (SOC as at 87% when the sun went down - very cloudy day) via the grid and high charge rate

This morning, The grid was STILL connected - oh, oh!

That should not be. It should have been inverting from the battery by that time, but was NOT! I played with things, including shutting down down the entire system, grid off, battery off PV strings off. Powered on the battery and......nothing - should have been inverting!

Turned on the grid and the inverter turned on and was then INVERTING. Turned off the grid, and the inverter shutdown entirely - deep darn! No more UPS using a battery backup. Some relays and/or control hardware is malfunctioning.

I think after 20 years, the inverter is telling me something - that it is tired

I have been researching Trace inverter repair places all day, but no one has called back. I might have to accelerate my Move to Tesla batteries and a new inverter faster than I hoped for

Life changes

dougbert
 
This morning, something happened that I have been dreading for several years now - my Trace SW4024 is malfunctioning

My current operational mode:

18 hours a day, running the house off of the LA battery bank. Each day the house consumes some 167 amp-hrs @ 24v. On good sunny days, the batteries are recharged by 1800 hr (6PM) as the sun disappears behind the west mountains. At 6PM I have had the grid auto connection via the inverter and then charge the batteries the rest of the way (if needed) to 100% for 6 hours,until midnight.

Yesterday morning battery was at SOC 85%. Last night I checked the grid was connected and charging the battery (SOC as at 87% when the sun went down - very cloudy day) via the grid and high charge rate

This morning, The grid was STILL connected - oh, oh!

That should not be. It should have been inverting from the battery by that time, but was NOT! I played with things, including shutting down down the entire system, grid off, battery off PV strings off. Powered on the battery and......nothing - should have been inverting!

Turned on the grid and the inverter turned on and was then INVERTING. Turned off the grid, and the inverter shutdown entirely - deep darn! No more UPS using a battery backup. Some relays and/or control hardware is malfunctioning.

I think after 20 years, the inverter is telling me something - that it is tired

I have been researching Trace inverter repair places all day, but no one has called back. I might have to accelerate my Move to Tesla batteries and a new inverter faster than I hoped for

Life changes

dougbert
Sorry to hear. Hopefully it is something that can be repaired... keep us posted!
 
Good news. The Inverter is fine!

the issue was the clock setting was 12 hours off (don't ask - I have no idea how it screwed up) so my timing of grid connect and disconnect was off and my expectations of what it should be doing was off from reality

once I set the clock - all was good and it worked. The one issue of why when I disconnected the grid the inverter turned off, well (sheepishly) I turned the wrong breaker off. I turned off the complete disconnect of the inverter on the AC side and not the feeder breaker from the grid - doh!

so all is good and unicorns at the moment.

generated 10 kwhrs of energy yesterday and bought 6 - love fall time as the panels stay cooler

dougbert
 
Last edited:
Wow; after almost 1:50 minutes, I read the whole post. All I can say is wow. You are a brave man. Not only sticking to it; but without hesitating on the never ending investment. I couldn’t do it that way. Then again; I don’t think you do it for the $ but because you can and you like doing it. With your current setup would have been more than sufficient for most folks to be completely off grid. Must be a very active house. I myself work from home and so does my wife and we average between 19kwh-30kwh per the Smart lying meter. :)
 
Nef003

thanks for the kind words. I am a software geek and this idea of home power generation struck a cord. So glad that things are getting cheaper

Just today I bought a new 310w solar panel for $240 including sales tax.
My original 12 panels @ 100w each, cost $4.50 a watt back in the day. That is $5400 for all 12

I will be taking down 4 of those panels (400w - spec'd - but output is now at 240w today)) at a time and replace them with 2 310w panels (one of which I just bought) and those will take up less space than the 4. Roof space for panels is rare at my house, so I decided to swap out the old with new more powerful panels.

My primary reason to play with solar has been geekdom not the savings, but reducing the power bill from $100 to $30 a month is cool.
Some guys spend their money on new trucks, I am now focusing on new solar harvestors

dougbert
 
Last edited:
About time those 100w panned came off; you stated that they were only providing about 1/3 of their throughout the post; and finally they are off. Just sell them all for 30$ a piece :)

I have been on the way to finishing this solar project for 5 years now. Only missing batteries. Not sure which to get since I plan on a 48v system on the cheap! Do you think reconditioned deep cycle marine batteries are worth it if I get them at like 35-40$ a piece?
 
Thank You very much for your in depth story and the Lesson Learned along the way. Thank goodness for missionary workers, a good feeding and bit of time and much get's done. ;-)

I'm also running on 24V (total off grid) am using a bank of 8 Rolls S550's being replaced by one lifepo4 24v/400AH LifePO4 pack. ($2999 usd). I considered Tesla S packs as well but when adding another 350 for BMS and other related costs, the LifePO pack solution came out best for us (albeit a risk, but so are used EV packs too). I noticed in your thread here, you make no mention of a BMS for the Tesla Packs, when I was considering such, a "Chargery Brand" BMS was recommended to me LINK http://chargery.com/BMS8T.asp Although I don't know anything about them, there may be better or ? Also depends on if you want to have access to monitor & control with something like CanBus or Modbus. I was given this link the the day and it has a wealth of info on BMS' and more... worth spending some time going over the site.

I feel I should point out, most modern Inverters / Chargers, Solar Controllers etc can communicate through software and that can enable a lot more functionality & capability because you can really dial it in better for your particular use case.

Have you considered some form of Tracking Rack ? even a manual one can be adjusted seasonally to optimize generation, the automated ones are crazy expensive IMO but I've seen DIY ones on YT and elsewhere if your inclined for such. Seems you aren't afraid of diy LOL.
 
Nef003

thanks for the kind words. I am a software geek and this idea of home power generation struck a cord. So glad that things are getting cheaper

Just today I bought a new 310w solar panel for $240 including sales tax.
My original 12 panels @ 100w each, cost $4.50 a watt back in the day. That is $5400 for all 12

I will be taking down 4 of those panels (400w but output is now at 240w today)) at a time and replace them with 2 310w panels (one of which I just bought) and those will take up less space than the 4. Roof space for panels is rare at my house, so I decided to swap out the old with new more powerful panels.

My primary reason to play with solar has been geekdom not the savings, but reducing the power bill from $100 to $30 a month is cool.
Some guys spend their money on new trucks, I am now focusing on new solar harvestors

dougbert
And your brave solar exploits shall go down in geekinfamy!
 
Last edited:
For my future batteries, I will be going with the Tesla S batteries from salvaged vehicles.

These go for $1300ish off of ebay and will require 2 for 48v
Also required will be the battery controller and I am aiming for the Jack Rickard controller which does cost $2500 for the controller alone - BUT there is REAL value and feature sets in the product:

Watch his video on it first - run the video speed at least 1.25 or 1.5


Here are the reasons why I want his controller:

1) I want a 5+ day depth of battery bank -eventually - That is at least 5 days of NO solar input. I use abt 15kwh per day, that means I need 75kwhr deep battery bank. I can't get there immediately, but I can start with a 10kwhr pair of Tesla S modules (again $2500 for 2) and add 2 more modules over time, increasing my bank depth by 10kwh per set as I get $2500. The controller will display 40 battery modules, but supposedly can control 62 modules

Cost to get started: $2500 for Tesla S batteries and $2500 for battery controller, 10kwh capacity initially - with ability to grow

COMPARE: I currently have 12 2volt USBattery L16 size Lead Acid batteries, 1100amp-hr each. Cost was $5000.
10kwh usable capacity due to only can use 50% DOD. BUT I need another set at $5000 to make it 48volts: total cost would be $10,000.

But wait.....there's more: I need to get all the same Lead Acid batteries at the same time - which means I would have to replace my current set as well - can't just add another new set of 12 batteries to an old set of batteries. Argh!

2) The EVTV controller

http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=esp32bms

interfaces WITH the onboard Tesla BMS. It does NOT do the BMS function itself, it reuses the existing BMS. That Tesla BMS is the secret sauce on running these batteries. Tesla engineers know their batteries and how to properly manage them - they manage 16 modules in each car.

The controller ONLY works with the Tesla Model S. They are working on another product to control Model 3 batteries, but not there yet.


2a) Tesla battery fires and why the Tesla BMS might be the best BMS - watch between (HH:MM) 1:12 to 1:24 and then 1:29 to 1:35


750 gasoline car fires PER DAY
a dozen or so Tesla vehicle fires ever

BMS by Tesla is excellent

3) This is a house capable system, not a portable unit. Serious project. I don't want Netmetering, I want my own battery store at my point of usage. I am thinking bigger. Rickard calls this the "Selfish Solar" model.

I want what Congressman Thomas Massie has built using this controller and Tesla batteries. Massie also coded the display module using a Raspberry Pi, that I believe he has licensed to Jack Rickard, which ships with each controller.

- read some of the comments on that vid

4) I was ahead of the pack back in 2000 with my system and I went ahead and did it. What I didn't know, I found a class and attended - cost $1500 for class and lodging. Then I built it. Today we can search and find GOOD verifiable training on youtube - it does take some time, but better then before youtube was around.

So I want to take my system higher and bigger than it was before. That means more battery depth, more panels and newer inverters and charge controllers. My wiring works just fine and will handle the upgrades,

I planned for a bigger system then initially was running. It just has taken 20 years to where I can really build it right



dougbert
 
Last edited:
Thank You very much for your in depth story and the Lesson Learned along the way. Thank goodness for missionary workers, a good feeding and bit of time and much get's done. ;-)

thanks

I'm also running on 24V (total off grid) am using a bank of 8 Rolls S550's being replaced by one lifepo4 24v/400AH LifePO4 pack. ($2999 usd). I considered Tesla S packs as well but when adding another 350 for BMS and other related costs, the LifePO pack solution came out best for us (albeit a risk, but so are used EV packs too). I noticed in your thread here, you make no mention of a BMS for the Tesla Packs, when I was considering such, a "Chargery Brand" BMS was recommended to me LINK http://chargery.com/BMS8T.asp Although I don't know anything about them, there may be better or ? Also depends on if you want to have access to monitor & control with something like CanBus or Modbus. I was given this link the the day and it has a wealth of info on BMS' and more... worth spending some time going over the site.

After listening to Jack Rickard and his teams work on reverse engineering how to talk to the Tesla BMS modules, I came to the conclusion that re-using the Tesla BMS boards is the best way for me to go. Tesla has had DEEP pockets to hire engineering talent to best manage their batteries - which is NOT a trivia undertaking. Other BMS system "may" work in the long run, and I think feedback over time on how well they work may provide good information. Yet I feel the $2500 controller Jack puts out, will work for me.


I feel I should point out, most modern Inverters / Chargers, Solar Controllers etc can communicate through software and that can enable a lot more functionality & capability because you can really dial it in better for your particular use case.

I understand. For years I have stood by with my 20 year old processing equipment and wished I had better telemetry harvesting. Upgrading the inverter and DC charge controllers will provide that. The EVTV battery controller also have such modern data harvesters

Have you considered some form of Tracking Rack ? even a manual one can be adjusted seasonally to optimize generation, the automated ones are crazy expensive IMO but I've seen DIY ones on YT and elsewhere if your inclined for such. Seems you aren't afraid of diy LOL.

I did back in the day. I found that spending the money on actual panels instead of tracking equipment (the expensive ones) was actually better.
I have a small lot with a small house. No place to put a tracker. But I have a roof that faces west and also east. Been thinking of putting panels there to get some morning photons as the sun rises and when it is setting. But 2 arrays both face south currently. I hope to add first to those 2 arrays.

Array 1 is about 1kw - want to expand to 2kw (maybe 2.5kw) after going to 48 volts
Array 2 is 1.5kw - want to expand to similar size
Array 3 to the west maybe?
Array 4 to the east maybe?

and again, thanks

dougbert[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
About time those 100w panned came off; you stated that they were only providing about 1/3 of their throughout the post; and finally they are off. Just sell them all for 30$ a piece :)

I have been on the way to finishing this solar project for 5 years now. Only missing batteries. Not sure which to get since I plan on a 48v system on the cheap! Do you think reconditioned deep cycle marine batteries are worth it if I get them at like 35-40$ a piece?

the panels are not off yet. I will get a second new panel, and then swap out the 4 old ones with the 2 new ones: 240w for the old and 620 watts with the new

Measured the old panels today:

Seimens 100w panels: Spec'd at 5.6 amps
12 of them are putting out (after MPPT) 20 amps which is 3.3 amps each. Used to get 4.6 amps back in the day

as for the batteries, I only bought new. Never played with reconditioned ones
Batteries are messy, dirty machines.

The late Richard Perez of the "Homepower" magazine fame - learned batteries deeply and hated them fully

As I pointed out above, a 48v Tesla battery bank and controller can be purchased for $5,000 - the same cost as my current 24v Lead Acid bank was back in Sept 2015

I do plan to sell or repurpose my panels, analog MPPT controllers (two of them), my battery bank (on year 4 with a 10 year life plan) and the Trace SW4024 inverter - if it continues to work.

One thing that I might do with my new Tesla pair of modules, is run them 24volts at first and use the Trace inverter - its digital programming will allow for the lower voltages of the Tesla batteries - ow, rah! - until the inverters finally dies or I want to upgrade to true 48 volts. Then rewire to 48 volts. The Victron charge controllers will require battery voltage reprogramming. When they are first applied to battery bank they take that initial voltage as their battery voltage. If you change the battery voltage, must manually reprogram to the new target voltage via their app or I believe their optional display device will also work

What size battery bank you looking at? What loads would go on it? Make SURE you have a battery monitor like the Bogart Engineering one or similar. I installed my 3 months ago and it is MY GO TO meter to read the state of my batteries.

dougbert
 
Last edited:
wanted to show how NOT to charge Tesla batteries. The fire was caused by OVERCHARGING the bank, without a controller nor BMS. Imagine this event at night while you are sleeping.


Jack Rickard shares this event on his video, then after ward shares what happened

starting at around 47:45 and going to around 1:05

 
Last edited:
Oh Oh a Crazy Canuck chucking a Monkey Wrench in the works, lol....
Just a ponderance to contemplate upon. 72 Cell Bi-Facial 350-450W Solar panels are available, not as expensive as many think either. They are bigger and absolutely a 2 man job to manhandle them ! (that's the only warning, you get ;-) ). A few fella's up here tested these by putting them over White Tin Roofing and surprise surprise ! I am presently pondering 3 of them (LG) for my Powerhouse roof as there is an economy to be gained there. You may be able to score a good deal with some concerted shopping. One of the big attractants for me is Low Light Generation is much improved and given winter hour limits (and that "stuff" that comes with it), every watt / volt counts.

REF: https://www.lg.com/us/business/solar-panels/lg-LG390N2T-A5
 
Well I have been working on project plans on upgrading my system, as I have referenced in prior posts. This will all be DIY, just getting the parts will be difficult thing

I have come up with 5 phases for the project to be implemented over time as funds become available. Later phases can utilize features of earlier phases

Phase 1: Charge controllers and more panels for Array 1
  • initially to 1800 watts while at 24v due to 60 amp breaker
  • Controller limit is 3500 watts max with 48v per array
  • using 310 watt panels at 2S5P, that would be 80volt Open Circuit, total of 3100 watt-best option
  • total of 10 Panels to stay under the max.
  • Doing 3S3P, only 2790 watts can be reached - so not a good option

Phase 2: New Tesla Batteries and battery controller -
  • 10kwh - stay with 24v for awhile using the old Trace inverter (the 20 year old inverter)
Phase 3: New inverter and Power distribution panel
  • switch over to 48v
  • can handle 4 Arrays
Phase 4: More battery modules
  • repeat this phase over time
  • 10kwh increments per interation
Phase 5: More solar panels per array
  • upgrade from 1800 watts to 3100 watts per array, in 2S5P layout
Phase 5a: Add array 3, another 3100 watts


Phase 1 Switch to digital controllers, control box, communication port and add solar panels

ComponentPartprice
Array 1 charge controllerSchneider Electric Conext MPPT 60$515
Array 2 charge controllerSchneider Electric Conext MPPT 60$515
Remote Control Panel for systemSchneider Electric Conext SCP$207
Wireless CommunicationsSchneider Electric Conext Gateway
$456
5 more panels for array 1310w panel$225 each=$1300
 
Last edited:
Phase 2 : Battery switch over

Battery ControllerEVTV v2 for Tesla S Modules$2600
Tesla S Battery Modules2 modules 10kwh @ 24v$2500
.
.
Phase 3 : Inverter and other processing equipment


DC-AC battery inverterSchneider Electric XW+ 6.8 kw 48v$3168
Power Distribution Panel - PDPSchneider Electric XW+ PDP$930
.
.
Phase 4 : Batteries


Tesla S Battery ModulesBattery modules 10kwh now at @ 48v$2500
repeat over time
.
.
Phase 5 : Array 1 and 2, add Array 3


Solar Panels for Array 1 and 2add panels to arrays 1 and 2, until max of 3100 watts per array is reached$225 per panel, plus rails, wire, etc
Add array 3Two arrays would provide 6.2kw of power. 3rd array another 3.1kw, total of 9.3 kw. PDP can support up to 4 arrays.$515 for Charge controller plus other stuff
.
 
Last edited:
Sounds lke you have a plan and ready to attack it. I might suggest you don't count too much on long term budget planning, things change fast and with Foghorn Legorn and his duty wars & trade sanctions anything is possible and probable. Anything beyond 6 months is speculation. I learned a while ago, figure out the numbers, verify them and add 20% on top for Murphy's Laws and Shit Happens factors, helps keep one sane and a wallet slightly more prepared. (Besides, I have & use "no credit at all", all cash so budgeting is critical and essential and no room for unplanned "oh shit, I forgot...")
 
steve_s, I understand what you are saying. This plan is "direction" that I am aiming. These prices give a feeling of what things will cost and yes, I will adjust as each phase starts.


CASCADING LOAD DIVERSION OF PV POWER

Some might ponder if too much PV will be wasted. Read on.

Several years ago I installed solar water thermal heater and it worked, especially in the summer. But awhile ago, the heat exchanger began leaking and the system has been off line since then.

I just came across a youtube video on how to heat water with excess PV power instead of a dedicated solar thermal system

part 1

part 2

I have decided to take down the broken solar thermal panel and brackets, etc. That southern roof space is wasted, from, a PV harvesting standpoint

In their place, I will put more solar PV panels for array 2 and then array 3
Array 2 has 5 panels @ 24v now. With the new controller I think I can add in the 6th panel for 1800 watts. After switching to 48volts, then add 4 more 310watt panels. Could even add 2 200 watt panels and match the 3500 max in that roof space.

I can use that extra PV power for several things, including heating water in my current electric tank (turned off) that is plumbed prior to my tankless gas water heater. This electric tank was used with the solar thermal system and was my heated energy store. Got up to 150 F in the summer. In the winter, maybe 90 F, which is still an improvement above the water temp of 48 F from the input source

dougbert
 
Last edited:
Here is Jack Rickard's Powersafe 100 product where you can see the insides that have 20 Tesla Model S battery modules. He has been a DIY'er for some time.

They have them arranged with 2 modules per layer, in series. 10 Layers, each layer being 48v and 10kwh of capacity. The vertical purple "swim noodles" cover the silver coated copper bars that are used to implement the parallel busses of the negative contacts on the left and the positive bar on the right. Smart and simple protective barrier, zip tied on. I will remember that

I am trying to plan how to arrange these batteries in the "battery area" where my Lead Acid batteries are now. Just need to design/implement a rack like in this picture

powersafe 100-1.png

Cost: Some $73,000
About: 100kwh storage
15kw inverter
battery controller

Here is the link to video the above photo came from



I'd like 4 modules, Alec

screen capture from
 
Last edited:
Started demo'ing out the solar thermal pipes and electric last night and this morning. Going to pull all the copper pipes from the basement that was the solar thermal system. Looking at it, I can see the complexity of the piping and wiring, etc.

I like the more simpler model of just adding more PV modules (2000w worth) to the house, and then heating water directly with that extra power. Then when the water is hot, cascade the power to another load - maybe a heat pump for cooling

PV has gotten much cheaper when one starts thinking about what to do with the extra power

dougbert
 
I think EVTV products are vastly over-charged, his Tesla BMS depends on a open source project.

His EVTV Battery Display software he got from Congressman Thomas Massie and runs other open source software on hardware that might cost $120.00 and he charges $395.00 for it.
 
I think EVTV products are vastly over-charged, his Tesla BMS depends on a open source project.

His EVTV Battery Display software he got from Congressman Thomas Massie and runs other open source software on hardware that might cost $120.00 and he charges $395.00 for it.

I understand what you are saying. I developed some linux kernel drivers 10 years ago. Did that for 4 years for 2 companies that paid me for that, and I was able to get it submitted and included into the linux 2.3 kernel

Yet I don't think that their products are over priced for the market they are aiming at. Their battery controller (BTW it is NOT a BMS, rather a front end to the Tesla BMS that is on each module - that is what that board is, the BMS) was developed by reverse engineering the communications protocol to the Tesla BMS as well as the wiring harness. That takes time to do. Engineering time is money invested with the expectation that that money can be recouped when selling the end product. I like his product. No one else has a similar featured product for Tesla batteries, that has the SAFETY FEATURES his team has put into it.

Their controller can support upto 62 battery modules - OMG that is a huge controller. It is targeted at bigger market and I will gladly pay their price for the feature set that they provide, in order to utilize the Tesla BMS and not a gerry rigged BMS that really does not understand the complexity of the Tesla Battery

The ESP32 embedded board is their design. Sure libraries may be open source that they use, but note that the Tesla CAR uses several computers, each running linux as well

I think that Congressman Massie has some contract with Jack and probably gets a fee for every display sold. The display alone is $120, plus the $35 for the Raspberry Pi, power supply, cables, etc. Then the packages, etc. That price is a great price for what is included and the information it provides. Even access to a cloud service to upload solar telemetry.

So my view point and my money, will be to buy his products so I don't have to DIY that part. My project plan lays out $19,000 in future costs, where Jack's product will only be $2900 of price.

I appreciate your comment and I understand where you are coming from. It is good to explain this for others as well

thanks

dougbert

PS Jack and his team are currently doing R&D on the Tesla Model 3 battery pack to come up with a battery controller for those batteries. Model 3 will have far more salvaged battery available going to the future than the Model S (which has many for it already)
 
Last edited:
took some pictures of my 2nd array on the main house and the OLD solar thermal panel. That thermal panel is going to come down along with its piping and brackets

here are the existing 5 panels of array 2. Columns 1 and 2 from the left.

That open spot in the upper left column 1, is where panel 6 (currently on the ground tied in with array 1) will be placed. These 5 panels are 300 watts each and totals 1500 watts. another panel would bring it to 1800 watts and the current charge controller can't handle that amount of power - 50 amp limit. The new controller will be able to handle 60 amps, and then I will add the 6th panel, totally 1800 watts

P1000003.JPG

here is the thermal panel and will be coming down. In its place will be two columns (column 3 and 4) of 3 rows of new panels. This will allow for a total of 10 panels eventually for array 2.

4 more panels in column 3 and 4, rows 1 and 2 (from the bottom) for array 2

It will require the new inverter and the switch to 48v battery and 48v array refactoring before that can happen

P1000001.JPG

column 3 and 4 will take the space now occupied by the thermal panel, there will be 4 lower spots for 4 more panels for array 2. Then array 2 will filled out to 10 panels. There will be 2 open spots in column 3 and 4 for array 3.

After that, in future column 5, there is some space to the far right on the top part to put in 2 more panels for array 3. Just need to find where to put in the other 6 panels for array 3. Leave for a future day problem


P1000002.JPG
 
Last edited:
Received my first new upgrade, the Conext MPPT 60 150 charge controller yesterday. Then last night did some prelimary layout of where I will put it on the "board" and planning for the 2nd SCC in the future. Existing invert, power panel and ground fault box will remain until the new inverter and PDP (power distribution panel) are installed.

Need to re-route array incoming wires to new position of the new controller(s)

dougbert
 
Last edited:

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top