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SunGold Power SP6548 Flickering lights after new install

Called the number provided and it was just a google voice number to look like it was from the US. Told I have to upload videos of the problem and explain it again as she has no record of any issues with my order. Tried to explain that I have done all this and have been working with someone on this issue. She then informed me that everyone is away for 3 days and I have to wait. Beats head into keyboard.
 
Lack of documentation and weirdness like this makes me glad I got an Outback. It very clearly states all neutrals are tied together in the unit, that the G-N bomd remains at the main panel, etc. I don't have it installed yet but it should be cake when I can get to it (too many projects going on at the same time, plus now I'm down with the Wu Flu so I have little energy to do much of anything right now).
 
I just can't understand how it is so difficult to get proper documentation and a replacement unit. This is not rocket science. If you sell a product and claim to be the OEM for others you must know how they are to be connected.
 
Lack of documentation and weirdness like this makes me glad I got an Outback. It very clearly states all neutrals are tied together in the unit, that the G-N bomd remains at the main panel, etc. I don't have it installed yet but it should be cake when I can get to it (too many projects going on at the same time, plus now I'm down with the Wu Flu so I have little energy to do much of anything right now).
I was reading another thread possibly in a different forum where the person had an Outback and had flickering as well. I truly hope this does not affect you. I scoured all articles relating to this so I can't remember the exact forum.
 
Shocked, I received a call from the rep I was dealing with. She spoke with her supervisor and they agreed the unit is not functioning correctly after looking at the YT scope videos. They are hopefully sending a replacement and I will send the malfunctioning unit back. I say hopefully since I was asked to text the shipping information as they could not access it..... who is paying for the return shipping to China is also up in the air as she could not understand what I meant. Their policy states they pay return shipping in the event of a warranty issue. Fingers crossed something shows up in a few weeks!
 
The video isn't really capturing it properly. The wave is much improved on PV only but there is a significant amount of distortion and the alternation is not even. It's good enough that I feel ok running it to some devices that have line filtering on them. But, that's only when the PV is able to carry the load. I'll likely just let it run in bypass to keep the pack voltage up until the replacement arrives.
 
The video isn't really capturing it properly. The wave is much improved on PV only but there is a significant amount of distortion and the alternation is not even. It's good enough that I feel ok running it to some devices that have line filtering on them. But, that's only when the PV is able to carry the load. I'll likely just let it run in bypass to keep the pack voltage up until the replacement arrives.

Ahhh OK I see now ! When you say you are running PV only, your battery is off ? Do the lights flicker on PV only ?
Or does the battery have to be connected for the lights to flicker ?

Maybe it is only when both battery and PV are running together ?

boB
 
Ahhh OK I see now ! When you say you are running PV only, your battery is off ? Do the lights flicker on PV only ?
Or does the battery have to be connected for the lights to flicker ?

Maybe it is only when both battery and PV are running together ?

boB
So that is with PV only out to the lighting circuit. DC and AC have been completely removed. The wave is much improved over all other testing scenarios but the lights still flicker in correspondence to the abnormalities. The constant on LED's did flicker less, enough where I would just ignore it. The dimmable ones.. still terrible. On mains the low threshold was a steady 10v out to the lights, on inverter it was an oscillating 5.6-12.8v hence the flickering. The dimmers just can't chop the trailing end of the wave properly with the inconsistencies.
 
Are these LED lights, " dimmer compatible " as they say on the package ?

If the waveform is rough and has some noise steps in it, then the dimmer triac trigger circuit could make the LEDs appear to flicker because the tria would be turning on at different voltage points in the waveform here and there if those steps happen to move around. Or move up and down on the sinewave up-going slope.
 
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Are you ready to have your mind blown? I had this problem on the MPP LV6548 ... UNTIL I replaced the stock 80mm fans inside the unit. So your unit is most likely defective, and I'd get it replaced if you could under warranty.
Please elaborate! You had flickering issues as well? I am relieved to hear this is not just me! Seemed like I was the only one on earth to have an issue with these units. Funny you said that about the fans. The left most fan cooling the mppt sounds like the bearings are gone and I was just going to replace it if I was stuck with it. The full list of things wrong are: left most fan bad bearing, PV2 input was intermittently not working and lighting flicker along with the unstable sine wave. I removed the cover and found a bad crimp at the MC4 and then traced it back and also found the ring terminal screw loose. Tightened and it's been OK since.
 
Are these LED lights, " dimmer compatible " as they say on the package ?

If the waveform is rough and has some noise steps in it, then the dimmer triac trigger circuit could make the LEDs appear to flicker because the tria would be turning on at different voltage points in the waveform here and there if those steps happen to move around. Or move up and down on the sinewave up-going slope.
All the LEDs are high end dimmer bulbs and the dimmers are for LED's. They are flicker free on grid, generator, ecoflow delta pro and ego nexus inverters. This is the only time we ever had flickering issues in the house. The house was built in 2006 so the electrical is in good shape.
 
What did you replace the fans with? I usually put Noctua fans in everything but when I googled the part number on the oem fans I could not find cfm specs so I was just going to request one from the manufacturer. 80mm fans are noisy to begin with but they are likely high pressure to push air through all the heat sinks.
 
Please elaborate! You had flickering issues as well? I am relieved to hear this is not just me! Seemed like I was the only one on earth to have an issue with these units. Funny you said that about the fans. The left most fan cooling the mppt sounds like the bearings are gone and I was just going to replace it if I was stuck with it. The full list of things wrong are: left most fan bad bearing, PV2 input was intermittently not working and lighting flicker along with the unstable sine wave. I removed the cover and found a bad crimp at the MC4 and then traced it back and also found the ring terminal screw loose. Tightened and it's been OK since.
Yes, similar to what I understand with your situation, I had constant LED lamp flickering, but only when the inverter was active (not in line mode or bypass mode). It was constant, rapid flickering, and awful. I ended up buying a variety of bulbs and noticed that the Philips Hue bulbs are immune.

Anyway, I replaced all 3 fans with near silent fans. If you buy standard computer fans, you have to crimp your own JST 4-pin connector, swapping pins 2 & 3. After I swapped out the stock fans, the sound levels were drastically reduced, and the flicker in the LED lamps was completely gone.

Only issue with swapping the fans with low-rpm fans is your airflow is reduced, and the system will "catch on" after about a day and send an 01 fault error code, forcing the fans to full speed and prompting you to replace them. However, I actually don't mind the fans running full speed all the time because they're still quiet at full speed. And I disabled the alarm beeper so I can ignore the fault code.

I used the Noctua NF-A8 fans. The airflow is approximately 30-40% of the stock fans, however, I haven't noticed any excessive heat building up compared to usual.

The stock fans were ~100CFM from the googling I did.
 
LED bulbs and flickering go hand in hand unfortunately. Even on grid I frequently get flickering with my cheap ($4-6) LED bulbs pretty regularly. The more expensive ones ($20-50) I have with massive drivers never flicker. The problem with the expensive ones is that they cause cheap dimmers to buzz at certain brightness levels ? It seems like you need expensive bulbs AND expensive dimmers.
 
LED bulbs and flickering go hand in hand unfortunately. Even on grid I frequently get flickering with my cheap ($4-6) LED bulbs pretty regularly. The more expensive ones ($20-50) I have with massive drivers never flicker. The problem with the expensive ones is that they cause cheap dimmers to buzz at certain brightness levels ? It seems like you need expensive bulbs AND expensive dimmers.
This is also true. Only the cheap LED bulbs with small form factors flickered for me. The Philips Hue (smart/bluetooth) lamp is also immune, probably because it has its own voltage-smoothing built in?
 
This is also true. Only the cheap LED bulbs with small form factors flickered for me. The Philips Hue (smart/bluetooth) lamp is also immune, probably because it has its own voltage-smoothing built in?
I think because the cheap ones use tiny capacitors. The drivers in some of the expensive bulbs I have cost twice as much as entire cheap bulbs.
 
All the LEDs are high end dimmer bulbs and the dimmers are for LED's. They are flicker free on grid, generator, ecoflow delta pro and ego nexus inverters. This is the only time we ever had flickering issues in the house. The house was built in 2006 so the electrical is in good shape.

Yes, similar to what I understand with your situation, I had constant LED lamp flickering, but only when the inverter was active (not in line mode or bypass mode). It was constant, rapid flickering, and awful. I ended up buying a variety of bulbs and noticed that the Philips Hue bulbs are immune.

Anyway, I replaced all 3 fans with near silent fans. If you buy standard computer fans, you have to crimp your own JST 4-pin connector, swapping pins 2 & 3. After I swapped out the stock fans, the sound levels were drastically reduced, and the flicker in the LED lamps was completely gone.

Only issue with swapping the fans with low-rpm fans is your airflow is reduced, and the system will "catch on" after about a day and send an 01 fault error code, forcing the fans to full speed and prompting you to replace them. However, I actually don't mind the fans running full speed all the time because they're still quiet at full speed. And I disabled the alarm beeper so I can ignore the fault code.

I used the Noctua NF-A8 fans. The airflow is approximately 30-40% of the stock fans, however, I haven't noticed any excessive heat building up compared to usual.

The stock fans were ~100CFM from the googling I did.

Well that is disappointing. The NF-A8 is their highest speed/static fan. I will look at the amperage when the new one comes in and see if I can find a closer match. Did you try dimming the bulbs?
 
I think because the cheap ones use tiny capacitors. The drivers in some of the expensive bulbs I have cost twice as much as entire cheap bulbs.
Well in my case I have flickering in $280 Philip architectural fixtures and hue bulbs. The architectural fixtures have multiple caps on the drivers, If I remember right 8. They should 100% not flicker lol
 
100% agree. They should be isolated. All motors can induce noise, every engineer should account for this.
Speaking of noise and accounting for it, the power supply for the LEDs on the front panel make an audible noise. When I turned off the front panel LEDs the audible noise went away. Both of these issues make me question the quality of the engineering in this unit.
 

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