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SunGold Power SP6548 Flickering lights after new install

On your post #99, "Output from the inverter with PV and Grid input disconnected:", I see some added voltage on the waveform happening aperiodically. They may actually have been periodic but you would have to slow the sweep down a bunch in order to see how often that would be.
The more recent waveforms look good BUT your lights are still flickering. As long as your lights are OK, then I think you should try video capturing the waveform again so we can see how it varies.

Just showing a few cycles of a nice waveform as a still photo may not show up on the scope. We can get by the shutter speed issue so that's OK.
Here is the inverter with PV as the only connection. It's a much better waveform but still quite dirty.
 
I saw Will's review of the new EG4. He noticed a circuit breaker on the input and some changes in the inverter caps and mosfets as well as a different firmware. This SunGold unit also has the breaker on the input and the firmware is different than the LV and the EG as it shows revision 69. It seems like this unit is different than the LV6548 and different than the EG4 as the PV input max voltage is the same as the LV6548. This can be an issue if anyone tries to mix and match these seemingly similar units. Food for thought for anyone looking at these 3 units.
 
What's odd is that we have this exact same configuration (grid connected reliance transfer switch with pass though neutral) running in our cabin and have 0 issues. That is a small 3kw Growatt though that only runs at about 5% capacity max.

The GW 3Kw may or may not have the ability to have N-G bond depending on when it was manufactured as there were some changes but model number was not changed.

It's another case of poor documentation and proper labeling. Yes, I have one in my truck camper. Never ran a 120V LED off it yet though.

It was already installed when we purchased it, I never took a close look at the wiring as it works just fine. I have no problem changing the wiring if that is what is required but without documentation stating so I am reluctant to kick another hornets nest with this Building Inspector.
I'm sure we will get to the bottom of this issue it's just a matter of time and patience. Does anyone know if SunGold is part of Signature Solar now? All my emails are responded to at night as if China based but last night I was given a Texas number to call "if urgent".
 
Unfortunately I have it set to solar charging only. But, funny you brought that up. I did notice last night that even when set to solar only the BMS was reporting more amps than the panels were producing. I threw my amp clamp on the input and saw 2 amps coming in on the mains connection. Now is it using that to supply power to the main functions, is it leaking into the battery through a bad circuit? Many questions. But, even with mains completely disconnected it still showed a poor waveform.

In that linked thread, he saw the same thing. It seems models or systems wired with a common neutral are prone to this. The LV5048 would be a common neutral as it was the predecessor to the LV6048.

TBH I am fairly exhausted with poking and prodding this box. I don't have a problem performing a few tests to help the manufacturer figure out a problem but with 0 feedback for a week I feel like this is an exercise in futility. My wife has about had it with the time I am spending on this. Hoping for a resolution shortly.
Have you ever tried just running a string of LED's on the inverter output without any AC input wired without the transfer switch?

That is what I would try, disconnect AC input and output to the transfer switch, wire up a circuit with some LED's to the inverter and see if the LED's still flicker. If the lights flicker, then it is a problem with the inverter. If the lights don't, then the problem is related to how this is wired.
 
I could. I did put the scope on the output with nothing connected but DC battery in and the wave was shifting in the same manner so I don't think it will change anything. I have some edison bases but I am past the point of wanting to tinker any longer. They need to send me some proper documentation instead of wasting all of our times doing R&D for them. It has been 1 week, not a single useful response from SunGold short of "the engineering has to build a mock setup to test you will hear back in 2 day max" then "we are in training". I genuinely appreciate all the input, lot's of good information was shared.
If I hear anything back from them I will be sure to update this thread. If I do not and get stuck with this unit I will update this thread to make others aware all the same.
 
Called the number provided and it was just a google voice number to look like it was from the US. Told I have to upload videos of the problem and explain it again as she has no record of any issues with my order. Tried to explain that I have done all this and have been working with someone on this issue. She then informed me that everyone is away for 3 days and I have to wait. Beats head into keyboard.
 
Lack of documentation and weirdness like this makes me glad I got an Outback. It very clearly states all neutrals are tied together in the unit, that the G-N bomd remains at the main panel, etc. I don't have it installed yet but it should be cake when I can get to it (too many projects going on at the same time, plus now I'm down with the Wu Flu so I have little energy to do much of anything right now).
 
I just can't understand how it is so difficult to get proper documentation and a replacement unit. This is not rocket science. If you sell a product and claim to be the OEM for others you must know how they are to be connected.
 
Lack of documentation and weirdness like this makes me glad I got an Outback. It very clearly states all neutrals are tied together in the unit, that the G-N bomd remains at the main panel, etc. I don't have it installed yet but it should be cake when I can get to it (too many projects going on at the same time, plus now I'm down with the Wu Flu so I have little energy to do much of anything right now).
I was reading another thread possibly in a different forum where the person had an Outback and had flickering as well. I truly hope this does not affect you. I scoured all articles relating to this so I can't remember the exact forum.
 
Shocked, I received a call from the rep I was dealing with. She spoke with her supervisor and they agreed the unit is not functioning correctly after looking at the YT scope videos. They are hopefully sending a replacement and I will send the malfunctioning unit back. I say hopefully since I was asked to text the shipping information as they could not access it..... who is paying for the return shipping to China is also up in the air as she could not understand what I meant. Their policy states they pay return shipping in the event of a warranty issue. Fingers crossed something shows up in a few weeks!
 
The video isn't really capturing it properly. The wave is much improved on PV only but there is a significant amount of distortion and the alternation is not even. It's good enough that I feel ok running it to some devices that have line filtering on them. But, that's only when the PV is able to carry the load. I'll likely just let it run in bypass to keep the pack voltage up until the replacement arrives.
 
The video isn't really capturing it properly. The wave is much improved on PV only but there is a significant amount of distortion and the alternation is not even. It's good enough that I feel ok running it to some devices that have line filtering on them. But, that's only when the PV is able to carry the load. I'll likely just let it run in bypass to keep the pack voltage up until the replacement arrives.

Ahhh OK I see now ! When you say you are running PV only, your battery is off ? Do the lights flicker on PV only ?
Or does the battery have to be connected for the lights to flicker ?

Maybe it is only when both battery and PV are running together ?

boB
 
Ahhh OK I see now ! When you say you are running PV only, your battery is off ? Do the lights flicker on PV only ?
Or does the battery have to be connected for the lights to flicker ?

Maybe it is only when both battery and PV are running together ?

boB
So that is with PV only out to the lighting circuit. DC and AC have been completely removed. The wave is much improved over all other testing scenarios but the lights still flicker in correspondence to the abnormalities. The constant on LED's did flicker less, enough where I would just ignore it. The dimmable ones.. still terrible. On mains the low threshold was a steady 10v out to the lights, on inverter it was an oscillating 5.6-12.8v hence the flickering. The dimmers just can't chop the trailing end of the wave properly with the inconsistencies.
 
Are these LED lights, " dimmer compatible " as they say on the package ?

If the waveform is rough and has some noise steps in it, then the dimmer triac trigger circuit could make the LEDs appear to flicker because the tria would be turning on at different voltage points in the waveform here and there if those steps happen to move around. Or move up and down on the sinewave up-going slope.
 
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Are you ready to have your mind blown? I had this problem on the MPP LV6548 ... UNTIL I replaced the stock 80mm fans inside the unit. So your unit is most likely defective, and I'd get it replaced if you could under warranty.
Please elaborate! You had flickering issues as well? I am relieved to hear this is not just me! Seemed like I was the only one on earth to have an issue with these units. Funny you said that about the fans. The left most fan cooling the mppt sounds like the bearings are gone and I was just going to replace it if I was stuck with it. The full list of things wrong are: left most fan bad bearing, PV2 input was intermittently not working and lighting flicker along with the unstable sine wave. I removed the cover and found a bad crimp at the MC4 and then traced it back and also found the ring terminal screw loose. Tightened and it's been OK since.
 
Are these LED lights, " dimmer compatible " as they say on the package ?

If the waveform is rough and has some noise steps in it, then the dimmer triac trigger circuit could make the LEDs appear to flicker because the tria would be turning on at different voltage points in the waveform here and there if those steps happen to move around. Or move up and down on the sinewave up-going slope.
All the LEDs are high end dimmer bulbs and the dimmers are for LED's. They are flicker free on grid, generator, ecoflow delta pro and ego nexus inverters. This is the only time we ever had flickering issues in the house. The house was built in 2006 so the electrical is in good shape.
 
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