diy solar

diy solar

America's melting pot

but for the grace of god go I, when I had heart surgery they gave he lots of pain pills
and today I would be one of the many stuck in that trap. if not for it's side effects on
me, gave me turtle heads. I through them away. not for me.

if not for the turtle heads I'd be living on the streets now, it' possible.

few of our families have not been hurt by pain pill problem.
You can see the problem but follow along like a good sheep.
Please stop getting your advice from watching the View!
 
carp, that 7.5kW Split Phase Transformer seems to draw 200W from the battery with no load

output voltages are good 120V-0V-120V 240Vac across both phases.
 
carp, that 7.5kW Split Phase Transformer seems to draw 200W from the battery with no load

output voltages are good 120V-0V-120V 240Vac across both phases.
Curious why did you buy a Vevor 2400 watt 230 volt 24volt inverter and then run a transformer to make your 120 - 0- 120 output?

Post in thread 'America's melting pot'
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/americas-melting-pot.80508/post-1033716
 
Curious why did you buy a Vevor 2400 watt 230 volt 24volt inverter and then run a transformer to make your 120 - 0- 120 output?
D71, when I started with solar my GF still lived here, she had a few TVs running all day, I was only going to
power my work station with solar, but with her gone I'm now powering my whole house. for that I need 120-0-120

when it was just my workstation only I needed signal phase 220 to power the AC servo system I use on machines(home work)


D71 said: in other topic
Tommy your iq is not high enough to have worked on nukes with everything required for that job field especially with your own described mental condition.
D71, this line confused me, because everyone in the NORAD system knew if monkey's could read TM's ( technical manual)
they could be replaced, a large part of our training was in how to read a TM, they did give us basic electronic information
and spent a lot of time on soldering wires and components which I have come to use a lot over the years, but the most
time was on understanding and using TMs

I guess in every class there are students that think they know better then the TM's , or try to memorize the test set's
setup procedure, the instructors had a name for that kind of students "knobdicker" most offend "fucking knobdicker"

from the Minuteman to the Hawk missile system there is a TM for each operation.

1710895589414.png

 
Last edited:
does seem logical if I wire it for a higher primary voltage it should reduce the Watts
I'll try 240V I would think the secondary voltage would drop, but I think if I get 110v
I would be all good, 100W would be better then 200W I think


Capture347.PNG
 
Well did you cut the watts or not?
D71, yes it did drop the watts to 110W, but the output voltage dropped to 99.5 VAC
I'm going to have to deal with the 200W for a time.:mad:


I think I'm going to try one of these, or keep to my original plan of only dealing with my Home workstation.

Capture353.PNG
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: D71
D71, yes it did drop the watts to 110W, but the output voltage dropped to 99.5 VAC
I'm going to have to deal with the 200W for a time.:mad:


I think I'm going to try one of these, or keep to my original plan of only dealing with my Home workstation.

View attachment 203919
I chose this 120volt setup and if want 220-240 can run a second unit in split phase.



Might consider adapting to the system vs trying make present appliance and such run-work.


This guy in video is actually incorrect… the induction top is not a heating element. Induction requires special pans that become the heat source….. works via induction.

More cooking

Post in thread 'Rice Cooker Recommendations'
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/rice-cooker-recommendations.7236/post-804945
 
I'm letting life changes chase me in circles, my inverter, battery packs and panels pointed
at the sky are sized for powering my home office, now is not the time to try doing the whole
house, that would require a different setup. I'm going to stay on task for my home office for
now. I can revisit the whole house this summer when I can get 2000W more panels point at the sky.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D71
Do you need 220-240 volt split phase?

This stuff gets expensive real quick. Mistakes are a biggie waste of money. Why I was asking.
Some things for the future….to consider. Victron is probably best advice and I just don’t see problems like from cheaper units.. Expensive. Very Low watts in standby.

I considered setting up multiple remote solar power stations then running a power wire to appliances. Or setting most everything up at the appliance. The problem think most of us have is trying make solar fit our life styles and as such adapt these systems to our conventional past. That might be a mistake and need to do things different for multiple setups….vs single source.

Again THINK; We kind of need to change up everything for thinking. I like these Victron small inverters might be solution because in no load - eco mode the rated draw is just 1 watt or so. Of course if mppt is sitting there powered on then it is drawing juice if solar is not off setting it. Most ppl with systems like this should NOT compare to all in one units for idle. The watts while at idle for all in one systems when running everything inverter, mppt , built in charger and so on is going to be a bigger draw vs stand alone inverter.

That Parasitic drain is a problem…for small systems….. i am considering this to basically run my refrigerator or maybe bigger version run refrigerator and chest freezer . I have 120volt 1 ton mini split heat pump might run with victron 1200va …24 volt unit. The 120v -mini heat pump takes a lot of power. I started get the HYBRID unit that just plug panels into from signature solar but wanted batteries to dampen the load…in regular system.
This HYBRID IS INTERESTING. BUT I went with standard 120v 1 ton mini split direct from Pioneer online.

I also changed out my electric water heater for a lpg tankless on demand water heater. It saved a bunch of money and electricity…… I have installed a few lpg tankless for other ppl. See below.


IMG_5687.jpeg

The versions vary depending on what you need.


Specific use applications like refrigerator

I am considering this for my mini split heat pump.

I think we sometimes need to completely re-think our applications with a fresh approach vs adaptations over from past traditions. Some of these inverters come with gfci sockets which think is my preference for direct plug - protection. I think appliances with built in battery and inverters would be interesting just plug up solar panels…option 120 volt selectable. These systems do nickel dime with other components like mppy and a battery charger for when the solar lets you down.

Before you buy anything else try your setup for testing your present system… see what you think before spending more. Better to learn with your current setup then spend more with defined goal. Some ppl spend a lot of money.

For hot water - tankless have seen these working fantastic for 4-5 years zero problems and they come with exhaust kits. Not for large homes and best to setup near the most used source for hot water. Recommend getting the water valves from home depot or lowes. Electric hot water heaters are just not a good method to me…when conserving energy. Traditional electric water heaters are hogs. Best money saver so far.

IMG_5688.png


They are offered for $349 at Lowes now and you can get 10% for being in military - basically no taxes. Eccotemp sells direct.
I hate plumbing …. These units always require thought to put in the cleaning valves.

I think ppl need to re-examine how we build homes and have energy combined central points vs spread out big homes. The Swedes and Japanese are good at compartmentalized living spaces.

So what are you planning?

You want to go Green don’t you?
 
Do you need 220-240 volt split phase?
D71, all my work stuff can deal with 208 to 240Vac single phase.

for my whole house I need 110V to 120Vac two phase.
For hot water - tankless have seen these working fantastic
my hot water heater, home heating, and stove are natural gas, piped into my house, comes on same bill as electric service.


I'm going to use this information to figure the most cost effective way to get it done.
now my clothes dryer is 220Vac, I'm going to look into changing that to natural gas

IMG_4329.JPG

like you I could go with 48Vdc to reduce my wire gauge sizes, but because my bike, snow shovel, and office
are 24Vdc, I'm going to do my whole house 24Vdc also.
 
Last edited:
I think appliances with built in battery and inverters would be interesting just plug up solar panels…option 120 volt selectable.
D71, that seems like a sweet idea :love:
I considered setting up multiple remote solar power stations then running a power wire to appliances. Or setting most everything up at the appliance. The problem think most of us have is trying make solar fit our life styles and as such adapt these systems to our conventional past. That might be a mistake and need to do things different for multiple setups….vs single source.
this also interests me because I testing 3 different battery chemistry, and charging and discharging profiles.
The watts while at idle for all in one systems when running everything inverter, mppt , built in charger and so on is going to be a bigger draw vs stand alone inverter.
D71, I have the same AIO as you but in 24V , at idle I'm showing 26W. @1 amp
Victron is probably best advice
thanks for the link to will's Victron mini inverter video, got me thinking.
 
My current system as shown in description can only run my refrigerator for 1 day with 45% remaining on batteries. No solar - cut in. It is around $3000-$4000 and not even 2 days of power…..just for my refrigerator.
Sound cost effective?
In winter time - bad weather solar output is horrible. I took down solar panel array to move it around. Bought a solar tracker for additional 1200watt array to put back up later.
The components are not that expensive if you have welder and metal. Old satellite tracker component. From what read Old satellite dish antenna bases and actuator work well when adapted. Tracker Videos near bottom.

Some things to look at - still looking at battery breaker:

IMG_5702.jpeg
IMG_5703.jpeg

VS

IMG_5704.jpeg


Components and trackers


Ecoworthy Tracker $399







Specs
https://youtu.be/BQkVNolzR3g?si=k8Lfeu11m7GTUjo6

Shame this 24vdc appliance is so Expensive a dc to dc coupling would avoid inverter…- loss.
https://youtu.be/Z91Pu6g86x8?si=ovFlugQ-5eaSS9zY

Post battery appliances towards bottom of page.
 
Old satellite tracker component
D71, because I can get used panels dirt cheap(230W $60), and because I have lots of trees that cause
numerous shading issues throughout the day, I've decided over paneling would be the best option for me.
while I have 24vdc linear actuator, and motors that could be used in a tracking system, over paneling
seems the best idea for me.
Sound cost effective?
I got 600Ah (14.4 kWh) 24Vdc at a cost of $3200 that's about my grid cost for 2.5 years, going to see how long
that 600Ah lasts, if it's less then 3 years I would still do it, practicality never enters my mind when doing
a project, because I have options.

my hope is to have 800Ah before summer gets here. (20 KWH)

that would only cover one day for my whole house, so I got a 24V 25A grid charger for rainy days.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: D71
my hope is to have this 100Ah 24V battery pack ready to test by sunday.

View attachment 205556
How much was that pack if you don’t mind? I HAD thought about building my own but usually it is break even or so when done. So bought fab batteries. I can always take apart.


IMG_5801.jpeg

This OUPES Mega 5 4000w is currently on sale for $2743.59 delivered. No mucking around plug and play…easy to transport if need be too. Can take up to 2100watt solar input just mount it in kitchen under a cabinet… plug in terminal strip. Run all emergency powered cook ware, refrigerator, and freezer. Run 1200watt solar tracker vs 1600watt to it. Use 2 panels combines 400watts on tracker to run another previous battery ups back up….

Run my 48 volt AIO and 1560watts for the mini split. Hmmmm or run total 1600watt tracker to mini split. Decisions decisions. If ecoworthy solar tracker works out buy another?

I really like component systems AIO units give me anxieties…. Hahaha

I setup 2 of my additional Santan Solar used 330watt panels yesterday. 330watt each panel were putting out 400watts each panel today. Cold weather makes them work a lot better with good sun. Once it gets hot power drops Those panels get warm in summer time. Today was Fantastic compared to previous months. Glad this shit is just a hobby for me. It is not dependable standalone. Works when it works. Expensive yard art when it doesn’t work….like intended. You’ll see.

Keep your panel matched. Not moving for solar array is best but have limited yard - trees too. High winds in storms sometimes. I am waiting to see how shading from new building hits yard to place the solar array - tracker.

I’d hoped Will Prowse would try similar tracker setup. He likes to try new stuff.

I would not mix those batteries for power. They all need be same basic specs and types or you are probably going to get some smoke.
 
How much was that pack if you don’t mind?
$340.00 for 100Ah 7S 12P 29.4V

 
Last edited:
$340.00 for 100Ah 7S 12P 29.4V
Are those batteries lifepo? I don’t trust other lithiums.

I considered this build setup but they went quick.


considered these at around ~ 14kW still need bms and other components. This setup is stated $117/kWh. These cells are suppose to be new.

IMG_5808.png
 
my hope is to also use this pack as 48V for running a new 5000W BLDC motor I just pick up.

damn thing can draw 100Amp, not wanting to use my 400Ah 24V lifepo pack for that
my 200Ah 24V flooded pack would have a hard time with this motor.

IMG_4299.JPG
 
Last edited:
shading is something I also have to deal with, for me running the panels in parallel seems
to work best. a lot of wires but doable results
It does help with shading running parallel just got to meet battery voltage for panels or mppt won’t work right. I have 48v AIO battery 2 panel in series then parallel. I tried swapping them around. The winter time changes shading due to sun….location. My house cast a shadow in one spot but not year round when sun came up other parts of year. With house shading Took 2 hours longer get full sun. I Moved those panels. Problem solved I used set security cameras to monitor my shading through out the day but initially missed that house shading. Used 360 camera to also check shading …. ….

Be nice if we had something that made parallel-series transition for wiring changes on the fly - relay-contactor based. The diode shit for partial shading doesn’t work real well. That is for split panels. I haven’t personally tried them. I’ve got 3 different solar panel brands types. Small watt arrays. I had planned to ground mount different areas pointed different directions.. hoping tracker solves. I don’t want a shitload of panels in my backyard.


With batteries these are ones really like and are like a Mil-Spec setup. They are just extremely heavy. They were my first choice.

IMG_5809.jpeg

Our old locomotive lead acid batteries would last 10-15 years. As they cheapened locomotive lead acid batteries they only lasted 5-7 years …. They reduced the weight and physical size-some too. We dramatically increased with added technology the load requirements. Why they did not last as long…was multipoint. We built $1.5 million dollar battery facility to try figure out ways make cheap lighter weight lead acid to last longer. We should have required battery makers to reproduce original spec’ed batteries. 🤡

It is like the control sub systems we built and spec’ed coming out of china with substandard components. Then fucking bean counter point crooked finger at us. F them.
 
my hope is to also use this pack as 48V for running a new 5000W BLDC motor I just pick up.

damn thing can draw 100Amp, not wanting to use my 400Ah 24V lifepo pack for that
my 200Ah 24V flooded pack would have a hard time with this motor.

View attachment 205591
Whatcha building ….. a go cart?

 
Whatcha building ….. a go cart?
D71, the city I live in just made it ok to use golf carts on city streets, going to
put it in a golf cart frame, use it to take my mother to breakfast on sunday mornings(been doing that for 20yrs)
she has a tough time getting in and out of my truck. she is 90 this month.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D71

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top