After I parallel top balanced my 8 cells then disconnected them, they were all above 3.5 volts after sitting a couple of days. Resting voltage is around 3.33 volts.
New Supplier for 280Ah cells: Shenzen Basen
- Thread starter Haugen
- Start date
Well I got 40 cells. With two 16s BMS for 32 cells and two 4s for the other 8 cells to make two 12v batteries as back up cells to have on hand and maybe put them in my RV.
The BMS that Basen had were pretty impressive so I though why not try them and get them in a month or so also and get a discount with the large purchase. She said they were 2g wire but I bet they are closer to 4g. I'll let you guys know when they arrive. The wires are attached to busbars that attach to the board. They have bluetooth, USB, LCDs, temp sensors, and with the whole order they gave me 60 extra bus bars =100 to double up their thin bars. The pics are screen shots from the video she sent me of the 16s 200a smart bms showing the wires and lugs. It looks legit. We will find out. In the mean time I can learn more about other BMSs.
The 4s 100a bms looked like cheap normal chinese bms but they have all those smart functions. They should be enough to run 12v led lights in my RV and other 12v stuff. I wont have an inverter though.
Shipping was $537 to Florida
The BMS that Basen had were pretty impressive so I though why not try them and get them in a month or so also and get a discount with the large purchase. She said they were 2g wire but I bet they are closer to 4g. I'll let you guys know when they arrive. The wires are attached to busbars that attach to the board. They have bluetooth, USB, LCDs, temp sensors, and with the whole order they gave me 60 extra bus bars =100 to double up their thin bars. The pics are screen shots from the video she sent me of the 16s 200a smart bms showing the wires and lugs. It looks legit. We will find out. In the mean time I can learn more about other BMSs.
The 4s 100a bms looked like cheap normal chinese bms but they have all those smart functions. They should be enough to run 12v led lights in my RV and other 12v stuff. I wont have an inverter though.
Shipping was $537 to Florida
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My capacity testing started this morning. See here:
diysolarforum.com
Lishen 272AH thread?
It looks like a lot of sellers are now going to be replacing their EVE listings with Lishen. I've asked Emily from Shenzhen Basen Technology for spec sheets on them so they can compare to EVE. I'm mainly curious about the mounting threads. I've seen some other aluminum cased cells with odd...
diysolarforum.com
Let us know if they are still m6 1.0 pitch like the eveMy capacity testing started this morning. See here:
Lishen 272AH thread?
It looks like a lot of sellers are now going to be replacing their EVE listings with Lishen. I've asked Emily from Shenzhen Basen Technology for spec sheets on them so they can compare to EVE. I'm mainly curious about the mounting threads. I've seen some other aluminum cased cells with odd...
Yes they are. I have already installed 30mm grub screws using locktite
Where did you find the best deal that's exactly what I want to do encase 20mm was enough. I like the double nut idea also
Here is what I bought. I will be using nylon one's to hold on the BMS leads.
Sscon 100 PCS M6 x 30mm Socket Set Grub Screws Cup Point 201 Stainless Steel: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Sscon 100 PCS M6 x 30mm Socket Set Grub Screws Cup Point 201 Stainless Steel: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Amazon.com: M4-0.7 Metric Serrated Flange Nuts, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Bright Finish, Quantiy 50: Home Improvement
Buy M4-0.7 Metric Serrated Flange Nuts, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Bright Finish, Quantiy 50: Flange Nuts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Yep good finds. Even ebay was more and these have the cone head to seat better. So I'm assuming you did the bus bar, normal bolt, bms wire, then the nyloc.
What about just add the nyloc to all of them and stack the bms lug on top of the bus bars?
I was thinking the nyloc might be too tight and break the thread locker if I unscrew or drive the screw deeper like a bolt. I was thinking bolt one normal nut down, then hold that w a wrench while a second nut locks the 1st one down.
I'm don't have a BMS yet. I only bought the nylocks because they were cheap and I read somebody else had done it. I may not use them.
Good point on the nyloc potentially being too tight. I've stripped enough threads in my day and know not to use a torque wrench on these. I torqued the serrated nuts by hand while holding the grub screw with an Allen Wrench. I'll probably skip the nylocs.
Ok sounds good.
I hadn't thought about also using the allen wrench to keep them in one spot. Good thinking. I do know a nut on a stud is way better clamping force than a twisting bolt and that's why racing cars and trucks upgrade to studs to have better clamping force for the head gasket. Its a better design 100% Its a ridiculous amount of extra force you can add with a nut, vs a bolt head stripping off.
Although we don't need clamping force like that, esp if you have a double nut to keep it all snug.
I'm surprised Basen doesn't sell grub screws as an upgrade.
Man that's a lot of nuts for 40 cells, had to buy 200.
For other people - Encase those run out I found these 35mm for $8 more from rivercity fasteners and supply https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-M6-1-0...-/161901241879?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Basen did not send me double buss bars as requested. Any of you guys who are making your own buss bars want to sell me 15 or more buss bars or trade them for 32 30mm M6x1.0 grub screws?
I should mention that these need to be the beefier buss bars that have been shipping recently as show in my photo.
Thanks.
I should mention that these need to be the beefier buss bars that have been shipping recently as show in my photo.
Thanks.
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Definitely skip the nylocs. Id also suggest skipping the serrated nuts too. Double nutting the stud IMO is the way to go. Easy to tighten and if done right puts no additional stress on the aluminum threads and will never come off until you take it off.
Question: I was thinking about loctiteing the studs in but I was also thinking about a little JB weld and just make them permanent. Going with JB or some other epoxy along with double nutting the studs I would think would make the connection bullet proof. Thoughts?
JB could get messy but I assume it would work. I put just a dab of medium strength loctite on the end of the thread and all seem pretty solid. I set them fully threaded in and just made sure I held them solid with an allen wrench when tightening the serrated nut. This way my studs have full continuity. I could use the nylocs instead of double nuts. I would just have to make sure I hold the stud solid with the allen wrench when cinching up the nyloc.
hankcurt
Solar Enthusiast
I just posted some information I learned about using Loctite on aluminum and stainless steel in another thread here. Essentially, you need to use a primer or it won't properly cure. This is causing issues for some people when it doesn't harden and then oozes out on top of the terminal when the battery is used. I don't want to double post, but page 4 and 5 of the Loctite Manual have important guidelines to follow.
If you want to spend some serious coin on conductive adhesives, there are silver and nickel based conductive epoxies on Amazon.
If you want to spend some serious coin on conductive adhesives, there are silver and nickel based conductive epoxies on Amazon.
Thats awesome info. Thanks for posting it again! I have always used primer with permatex flange sealant but didnt even know there was loctite primer. Thanks again. This just kind of sealed the deal on the JB weld for me.
Like everything, it is in the application. You apply a small dab of epoxy to the female threads so it gets pushed into the hole instead of applying it to the male threads and it all ends up laying on the outside of the hole. Personally I dont really care that much about the stud being conductive. In the grand scheme of things it seems to me to be a nothing. Could be wrong.
Does anyone have any experience or feedback on this stuff?: https://www.mgchemicals.com/product...filled,corrosion, and prevents static buildup.
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