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SRNE 20KW parallel ASP journey.

42OhmsPA

What's in a title?
Joined
Feb 17, 2022
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Location
Pennsylvania
This will be an ongoing thread on my work in process expansion going from SRNE ASF to to parallel ASPs for additional power, 10KW wasn't cutting it...

Quick specs that come to mind for the ASP.
-Up to 6 units in parallel.
-Supports split phase, 3 phase and single phase (I'm running the US version, there is also a 230V native version).
-10KW AC output, 5KW / leg.
-2 5500W 22A 500 VOC max mppts, 11KW solar input.
-200A charging.


Relevant links from the other thread I started below.
Manual and datasheet.
Order placed.
Additional fees.
Units received.
AC output wired.

I'm making a commitment to have them up and running this weekend, I've been saying I'll get them commissioned for to long. I'm really in no hurry because everything is working exactly as intended with my ASF but they've been hanging on the wall for to long.

My ASF thread.

I'm looking forward to the other members that are / will be running these to share feedback as well.

The ASP is being relabeled by sungold power, powmr, probably others.

I have no idea what SRNE stands for, based on my ASF experience I've deemed it Some Really Nice Equipment.
 
6-29 update. They are alive!
Enjoy the photos. Feel free to critique and pick apart.

Zero issues.
(You will get faults for parallel communication if you set the first inverter to PAL with the cables disconnected, the power switch must be off to change the setting; it won't let you with it on.

Idle current dropped to 4A when the displays turned off, not spectacular, my only complaint so far.
Not sure I'm going to like the battery bus bars, time will tell. I got sick off thinking of a design.
Hopefully tomorrow they are powering the house. Need to transfer 3 more battery packs over.
 

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Looking forward to your updates.

Does Sungold power have the equivalent of the ASF, though? I see they have an 8K and 10K version of some SRNE inverter, but don't know which. If I ever upgrade, the 10K would be one I'm interested in.
 
They were selling the ASF version I don't know if they still are, a few members are running it.
If it's not able to be paralleled it's the ASF, if it can be paralleled its the ASP.
I'm looking at the site now, the 8/10K units are parallel capable, so they're ASP clones.

The 8K is $1519, and the 10K is $1669, with free shipping until end of the month.

I saw on the spec that they have about 100W idle power consumption, seems pretty high.
 
I'm looking at the site now, the 8/10K units are parallel capable, so they're ASP clones.

The 8K is $1519, and the 10K is $1669, with free shipping until end of the month.
That seems expensive compared to what they cost through Borick on baba...
I saw on the spec that they have about 100W idle power consumption, seems pretty high.
That's really my only gripe, but I can't complain for the price. I did verify it twice (with my ASF) with my clamp meter and shunt; I'll do the same with the ASPs.
 
Only down side is after buying the thing I saw the cap discussion in the other thread. If the caps are not going to last but 3 years or less this will be a bad mistake on my part.
 
Only down side is after buying the thing I saw the cap discussion in the other thread. If the caps are not going to last but 3 years or less this will be a bad mistake on my part.
I don't remember it being verified the lelon were in the ASP. If I get ambitious I'll pull a cover off.
 
Opinion time.
Option 1 - Run the battery cables down through the gutter where the red bushings are.
Option 2 - run them along the AC cables to the center of the gutter where the bags of lugs are then down and out?

Main - on the left side of the rack, main + on the right side.
1000010316.jpg

PSA the hex shank Neiko step bit has a really weak shank... Spent more time than I'd like to admit trying to get the broken section out so I could finish drilling without taking the ASPs off the wall; ended up taking them off the wall and drilling the like a normal person would... It was much faster....
1000010317.jpg
 
Opinion time.
Option 1 - Run the battery cables down through the gutter where the red bushings are.
Option 2 - run them along the AC cables to the center of the gutter where the bags of lugs are then down and out?

Main - on the left side of the rack, main + on the right side.
View attachment 223969

PSA the hex shank Neiko step bit has a really weak shank... Spent more time than I'd like to admit trying to get the broken section out so I could finish drilling without taking the ASPs off the wall; ended up taking them off the wall and drilling the like a normal person would... It was much faster....
View attachment 223970
I bought one of these a few years ago to install double din stereos. Works great for what your doing too. Also allows you to use stronger bits since it works with normal stuff.


$99

Well worth it.

angledrill.jpg
 
I'd do option 1 if it was me to keep contact between the ac and battery cables separated as long as possible to cut down on heat transfer. I like to be able to touch the cables and different spots to find problems before they happen :)

I pet my breakers and cables close to the tp6048 all the time so if something starts working loose and starts making heat I will catch it early.
 
I bought one of these a few years ago to install double din stereos. Works great for what your doing too. Also allows you to use stronger bits since it works with normal stuff.


$99

Well worth it.

View attachment 223974
Thank for the reminder ... I have 1 of these in the bottom of my big packout box... Would have saved me a lot of time.
.. It looks like the dedicated right angle is alot slimmer. Must resist the urge to buy more tools...
 
I'm not sure he's had time to fire them up yet. I only have the single unit so I can't help much right now :)
 
Looking good! I have been checking this thread every couple days for an update as this site seems to mess up the watch thread thing for me. Glad you have no issues. My units are sitting in Chicago, going to get shipped out Tuesday, should see them soon.
 
Well that's not going to work...
Better rewire the AC side, definitely will be beefing up the DC side for 240VAC input.
 

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You seem to of created a heater :)
Lol that's what 16AWG and 20 amps will give you. I stopped when the shrink terminals started softening up, about the same time I got the 12AWG silicone cord rigged up, things are nice and 'cool' now.
The marine rated 10AWG is happily handling 35-40A on the DC side.

That rectifier is impressive for under $100, need to order another one.

I already want to order more cells. As @OffGridForGood would say DSAM!
 

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