SUNGOLD 10KW 48V SPLIT PHASE SOLAR INVERTER

[CaliSunHarvester]

**My Solar Exploits**

Just got my March Xcel bill (for electricity and natural gas)

Approximately the same weather/temps

Electricity this year (with my solar power system) $20.02 / 92 kWh - Last year $72.23 / 469 kWh
Natural gas this year $49.64 42 therms - last year $65.88 58 therms (I did keep the thermostat about the same but did use space heaters more this year)

So, 377kWh saved equals $52. 13c/kWh.
A $20 electrical bill would be awesome to me.

To feel better about this topic, I don't look at $ numbers, just at kWh billed:

January 2176 --> 1329
February 1901 --> 1008
March 1903 --> 611
April 1651 --> ??? my math predicts 542

That doesn't mean I made 1300kWh of solar in March. Far from it. It actually was only 553kWh. The other 750kWh stem from change of electric dryer to heat pump, and the hot tub was turned off until last week.

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

Sungold website now shows the AIO 10k as model number SPH10048P replacing previous version SPH10K48SP. Now stating units support parallel https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0323/4090/2025/files/SPH8-10kw_manual.pdf



Param 31 now shows

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

Sungold website now shows the AIO 10k as model number SPH10048P replacing previous version SPH10K48SP. Now stating units support parallel https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0323/4090/2025/files/SPH8-10kw_manual.pdf


View attachment 209029View attachment 209031
Param 31 now shows
View attachment 209034

No way to add one of these parallel to the old 10kW model? I guess not, since the RS232 style connection is missing on the old model.

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

No way to add one of these parallel to the old 10kW model? I guess not, since the RS232 style connection is missing on the old model.

I would think it’d need a board and a firmware change. I doubt we’ll ever have that. Not a huge deal for me.
I’m now ready for my two new batts arriving Tuesday.

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

Final images of install. I am going to let it ride now and work on other projects. I made it through the entire night last night on batteries, first time that’s happened. Happy with everything so far, buss bar project worked out very well, I am proud of that. Cheers

 

[G00SE]

Looks very clean

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

Looks very clean

Thanks. One thing I do like about the liquid tight lines (although by code they should be metal) is that I am keeping all my + - lines completely separated until reaching appliance or device. I feel like this reduces risks of faulty insulation, heat, or damage to wires that could result in a potential arc fault. I may upgrade to a wire raceway one day I guess, but for now I feel ok with it.

 

[Brucey]

Thanks. One thing I do like about the liquid tight lines (although by code they should be metal) is that I am keeping all my + - lines completely separated until reaching appliance or device. I feel like this reduces risks of faulty insulation, heat, or damage to wires that could result in a potential arc fault. I may upgrade to a wire raceway one day I guess, but for now I feel ok with it.

My understanding is that best practice is to keep positive and negative cables pairs bundled together to minimize magnetic effects?

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

Final images of install. I am going to let it ride now and work on other projects. I made it through the entire night last night on batteries, first time that’s happened. Happy with everything so far, buss bar project worked out very well, I am proud of that. Cheers
View attachment 210272View attachment 210271

So are the wires from each battery to the white box in the middle of the same length? It seems it would be difficult due to the arrangement. But maybe possible with the curving that you have there.

 

[Moretorque]

Should I get one to go with my VIC 450/200?

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

My understanding is that best practice is to keep positive and negative cables pairs bundled together to minimize magnetic effects?

So are the wires from each battery to the white box in the middle of the same length? It seems it would be difficult due to the arrangement. But maybe possible with the curving that you have there.

For a system this small, based on my research, these factors are mostly null.

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

Just got the truck done.. I better get my 25% off discount!

 

[Kenny_]

Just got the truck done.. I better get my 25% off discount!

View attachment 212170

OH MY LORD!!!!

 

[Kenny_]

 

[Brucey]

Just got the truck done.. I better get my 25% off discount!

View attachment 212170

Trying to figure out if this is real or CGI.

 

[Kenny_]

Trying to figure out if this is real or CGI.

Two bads don't make a good.

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

Sungold 10k Inverter 4 Months Running Follow up Video

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

Good description why you like SA. The whole install looks good. SGP will like it.

I have the entire main house (4000sqft, 2 kitchens, hot tub, electric water heater) on solar and used utility power for a few hours only (10 maybe) in the first half of March. If I charge the PHEV on the SGP system, I can push consumption to 45kWh in a day.. which in recent weather is no problem. I do have 13kW in pv now.

(Usually I charge the PHEV with a smaller dedicated pv system.)

Not on solar: pool equipment, guest houses, well pump, booster pump.

Really happy with the inverter, have 5 batteries and thinking of increasing to 9 before winter.
But I won't make a video. I still have some temporary portions here and there .


All that said, did you read the thread "House burnt down"? It illustrates the importance of class-T fuses. The system there had operated for 4 (!) years before a bad fire happened.

So, I am thinking of a class T fuse between each battery and the bus bar. I saw your have a breaker but no fuse either?

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

Good description why you like SA. The whole install looks good. SGP will like it.

I have the entire main house (4000sqft, 2 kitchens, hot tub, electric water heater) on solar and used utility power for a few hours only (10 maybe) in the first half of March. If I charge the PHEV on the SGP system, I can push consumption to 45kWh in a day.. which in recent weather is no problem. I do have 13kW in pv now.

(Usually I charge the PHEV with a smaller dedicated pv system.)

Not on solar: pool equipment, guest houses, well pump, booster pump.

Really happy with the inverter, have 5 batteries and thinking of increasing to 9 before winter.
But I won't make a video. I still have some temporary portions here and there .


All that said, did you read the thread "House burnt down"? It illustrates the importance of class-T fuses. The system there had operated for 4 (!) years before a bad fire happened.

So, I am thinking of a class T fuse between each battery and the bus bar. I saw your have a breaker but no fuse either?

Yes I’d like to add fusing between each battery at some point. I’d figured there was some short circuit protection between the batteries already which would help? I don’t think the wall batts have a breaker like the rack systems but the batteries do disconnect from the busses correct? I know during ‘FULL’ and ‘OVP’ I’d heard a click and the batteries disconnect? I know fuses would be a good idea but I wonder if we have any other protection, @42OhmsPA can you tell me more about this? What would be the worst case scenario? Some sort of short circuit inside the batt case and the fuse would disconnect that batt from the bar? Is that what could happen?

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

What would be the worst case scenario

I think the worst case is one battery going bad and the others dumping into it. The thread "house burned down" is very detailed. The breakers may not be able to break the high current. Or they may be too slow. Wires melt in 0.1s at high enough current.

I have a single class T on the + side of my 24V system, straight next to the battery + pole. It's 3 batteries each 24V 200Ah and 200A BMS.

I am not sure why I didn't do the same for the 48V system. Maybe because the rack batteries look so sophisticated.

Remember that guy did a clean install and operated it for 4 years. He used "mega" fuses instead of ClassT. I believe some manufacturers incl. Victron actually recommend Mega fuses(?).

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

I think the worst case is one battery going bad and the others dumping into it. The thread "house burned down" is very detailed. The breakers may not be able to break the high current. Or they may be too slow. Wires melt in 0.1s at high enough current.

I have a single class T on the + side of my 24V system, straight next to the battery + pole. It's 3 batteries each 24V 200Ah and 200A BMS.

I am not sure why I didn't do the same for the 48V system. Maybe because the rack batteries look so sophisticated.

Remember that guy did a clean install and operated it for 4 years. He used "mega" fuses instead of ClassT. I believe some manufacturers incl. Victron actually recommend Mega fuses(?).

Yes I remember. I’d planned on cleaning up my buss bar wiring and adding fuses this this guy did:

but I guess those are the “junk” mega fuses? And everyone says go class T. But I still don’t understand what fuses to use. I’ve had that marked as a project but snooping around the forums and Google hasmy really led me to answers. I’m using the included battery wires, which are 4ga I think? And the packs can do 100 amps? So this?



But they are junk? I just don’t know

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

Yes I remember. I’d planned on cleaning up my buss bar wiring and adding fuses this this guy did:

View attachment 215236but I guess those are the “junk” mega fuses? And everyone says go class T. But I still don’t understand what fuses to use. I’ve had that marked as a project but snooping around the forums and Google hasmy really led me to answers. I’m using the included battery wires, which are 4ga I think? And the packs can do 100 amps? So this?

View attachment 215237

But they are junk? I just don’t know

My 24V system has the class t fuse in a plexiglass container. It's supposed to contain a mess. I haven't had a chance to verify.

 

[Lighthouse Beacon]

My 24V system has the class t fuse in a plexiglass container. It's supposed to contain a mess. I haven't had a chance to verify.

Are you going to fuse each of your 48v packs? What fuse are you going to use? I guess we need to. It makes sense to do it

 

[42OhmsPA]

Yes I’d like to add fusing between each battery at some point. I’d figured there was some short circuit protection between the batteries already which would help? I don’t think the wall batts have a breaker like the rack systems but the batteries do disconnect from the busses correct? I know during ‘FULL’ and ‘OVP’ I’d heard a click and the batteries disconnect? I know fuses would be a good idea but I wonder if we have any other protection, @42OhmsPA can you tell me more about this? What would be the worst case scenario? Some sort of short circuit inside the batt case and the fuse would disconnect that batt from the bar? Is that what could happen?

If there is no breaker on the batteries I'm guessing the click is the BMS disconnecting.
The worse that can happen would really bad... A fuse would protect against a short circuit, as long as it can extinguish the ark.
Personally I'd run a Class T, or fuse with equal or better interrupt rating, for each pack; 125A - 150A should be acceptable. At a minimum I would run a 250A class T between the main + bus and the inverter.

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

Are you going to fuse each of your 48v packs?

That was exactly my question for you LOL

It's said probably on every of the 20+ pages in the house-burnt-down thread: fuses protect wires, not equipment.

But yes, my intuitive answer is one class T per 48V battery.

In the 24V system I have only 1 fuse, but those 3 batteries are not on a bus bar.

I'm thinking rated up to 60V (not 48V) and 125A?
I use SGP's wires which are AWG 4 = 85A ampacity.
The most the inverter can pull is 10kW / 50V = 200A. Ideally, those 200A are split evenly across (in my case) 5 batteries = 40A each. However, it could be more if not well balanced. I recall that the rack batteries can deliver 50A sustained and 100A for a short period. So the fuse should probably be 125A?