Ok. There are plenty of discussions on UL ratings and cost comparisons of DIY vs prebuilt batteries.
What I want to know is who is still doing DIY and the reasons you chose this approach.
I will go first. At first it was the only thing going. Later it was for the challenge and satisfaction of building something from scratch.
The prebuilt versions are nice and my mouse has wandered towards the purchase button more than once. However for me there is just something about the creative process which has me strongly considering DIY for the next battery. An added advantage is that I can jump from 24 to 48v with a simple reconfiguration and BMS if I want.
At first, I went all DIY because there were no shelf offerings back then, DIY was the only way to get lots of LFP Ah. So I bought all my DIY parts based on 280Ah cells, for 12v and 48v packs, so they could all interchange (better serviceability for reconfiguration or for cell failure), then I added heaters under the aluminum floor-plates. I still don't see heaters on many of the shelf models today.
So now I'm building a 3rd 48v battery (already have three dual-12v, and two 48v setups), and also decided to go DIY again on the 3rd pack, because I want it to match the look of the others, and the same serviceability having existing form-factor. They all have the heaters too. I still buy 280Ah cells this time, just got them delivered today after 1.5 month China shipping...
I like to scale-out and keep all parts across my packs interchangeable. Plus, $2300 for 16s 280Ah is good for me, I already know the dimensions for the cut2size aluminum plates for the clamps, the floor plates (only the length is different on floor-plates between the dual-12v and 48v packs, totally modular design), 3/8" dia threaded rod, the silicone protector hose for the threaded rods, all the stuff I use.
I also like that I can change the BMS brand or model easily (right on top, no covers to remove). I also added the standalone 2a active balancers on all them as well in case I want to turn on higher amperage active balancing, or just have another bluetooth method to login and monitor cell voltages in case a BMS fries or something, or even if I want to compare the accuracy of the voltage readings. I can also easily access all the cell terminals and bus bars without removing shelves, cover lids, so I can manually check cell voltages, test voltage drops, connection points and such. Troubleshooting is a snap...