NobodyOfNaught
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2020
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- 31
What did you use for L Brackets?
Chargery BMS, DCC (Solid State Contactor) thread.
- Thread starter Steve_S
- Start date
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
If you are running 48v system then the 100v/600a becomes "about" 300a correct? Or is it the 12v it uses or what?
I got to page 3 of 11. Can you please update the OP with all the latest info. Is the heat and high draw issues solved with the mechanical relays?
Do you need 2 relays? One for discharge/low voltage disconnect and one for charging/high voltage disconnect? I read someone used 2 of them.
Where do you buy these and know they are not counterfeit? Is there a full kit I can buy? Can I support someone on here?
Total noob here
Sorry
GXMnow
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2020
- Messages
- 2,710
On a switch, it is either on or off, so there is very little power dissipation. Only that which is due to resistive loss in the on state. So it has a maximum voltage rating that it can handle when in the off or open state. That is the 100 volts maximum rating. Above that voltage it could arc over or otherwise damage the internal components. And it has a maximum current rating, in this case 600 amps where the current flow in the on or closed state will cause too much heat and possibly fail. The system voltage, as long as it is under 100 volts is fine, and it can handle up to 600 amps, at any voltage under 100 volts. The combination is not an issue.
If your charging sources and discharging loads are separate, it is best to use 2 separate contactors. That way the system can turn off the load when the batteries get low while still allowing the charge current to charge the batteries. Or it can disconnect the charging current when the batteries get full and still allow power to run the loads.
I do not have direct knowledge on the Chargery with a DCC to know how it handles this situation on a common inverter/charger situation. My BMS with a single port is able to act like a diode to stop either the charge or discharge current individually. It is probably covered in this 11 page thread.
What size DCC do I need:
That doesn't answer if the 100v rated relay has a lower voltage draw of 48v from your battery (roughly half) does the amperage rating go down as well do to the lower voltage? So I need to get the 600a if I'm going to draw 250a. My setup config is below.
Wait a minute, if I was drawing 6,000w off of a 48v battery vs 100v then the amps would double, not half. Right? If I decide to do 12kw at 48v = 250a. so I need a minimum 125a DCC correct?
Two DCCs or one:
The common port vs separate port confused me. I think all I have ever seen is common port, like with a daly. Can you explain why I would want two DCCs and separate port. Wouldn't that just be a higher draw?
Well a charge controller could turn off the pack if its too high, but it has no idea if each cell is too low or high. so I still think you would need two DCCs to be the safest. For example if you have just one DCC for charging and the the cell is too low and the controller keep charging the remaining cells would charge too high to compensate for the low or bad cell then turn off right? If one cell is too high and turned off by the BMS then as they discharge the high cell would inflate the others and those would discharge too low so a DCC on that end would be best also right.
Configuration:
I'm trying to find the right configuration for 16s 48v battery and 250a draw max. If the consumption is low even when in use the. Why not rate higher right. What is the consumption at 4000w on a 48v system. It looks like itnis a .13watt consumption while running 12v at 11ma = .132 watts. That seems great and the top three DCCs all seem to be 11ma
When it all arrives I will have two 16s 48v batteries, two MPP 6kw all-in-one inverters, and 50 panels. I was thinking run a Chargery to each 16s battery, then each battery will have its own MPP, then parallel them for split phase (US). If I runs the 16s as 2p then if I'm only using single phase 120v, then my ah would double if I was just using one appliance. So maybe I should do 16s2p battery. The only 240v split phase capable appliance I have is a welder and I think I would rather use a generator for that huge power draw.
Last edited:
Exactly my question please update OP
This link could be added to OP to buy legit. I have seen them everywhere
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
what ? Buy legit ???
see what everywhere ?
I would buy your parallel pack overseer. It seems to me that 16s BMS is the max you get these days at a decent price vs for example Batrium. You idea would allow many people to start building larger systems with the eve and Lichen cells that are currently cheap.
I have see chargerys on Alibaba and who knows if those are real
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Sorry but I have no clue what you are trying to say.
Chargery OLD WEBSITE :
CHARGERY is professional manufacturer for top quality RC and eVehicle power products including chargers,balancers,adapters and balance chargers
Chargery NEW SITE (site certificate needs to be corrected yet) :
CHARGERY is professional manufacturer for top quality RC and eVehicle power products including chargers,balancers,adapters and balance chargers (chargerystore.com)
Vendors like LUYUAN are Authorised Vendors as well as others, including ICoGOGO.
Then you have Rebranded (House Branded) ones like these:
Choice BMS Battery Management System | Electric Car Parts Company
BlueBIRD BMS – BobolinkSolar
Chargery OLD WEBSITE :
CHARGERY is professional manufacturer for top quality RC and eVehicle power products including chargers,balancers,adapters and balance chargers
Chargery NEW SITE (site certificate needs to be corrected yet) :
CHARGERY is professional manufacturer for top quality RC and eVehicle power products including chargers,balancers,adapters and balance chargers (chargerystore.com)
Vendors like LUYUAN are Authorised Vendors as well as others, including ICoGOGO.
Then you have Rebranded (House Branded) ones like these:
Choice BMS Battery Management System | Electric Car Parts Company
BlueBIRD BMS – BobolinkSolar
I just was saying that a link to their store in the OP would be great.
Has anybody done any voltage/current measurements on their DCC? I'm interested in the voltage drop from input to output of DCC when loaded with appreciable current under these conditions:
1. Normal operation (no faults). Measure load current and DCC voltage drop
2. BMS over voltage fault. Measure load current and DCC voltage drop
3. BMS under voltage fault. Measure charging current and DCC voltage drop
A simple way to simulate a fault is to open either the OVP or UVP wire to the DCC.
1. Normal operation (no faults). Measure load current and DCC voltage drop
2. BMS over voltage fault. Measure load current and DCC voltage drop
3. BMS under voltage fault. Measure charging current and DCC voltage drop
A simple way to simulate a fault is to open either the OVP or UVP wire to the DCC.
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
I just got a package from Jason which included the new External Power Adapters for the BMS', installed them this morning and the voltage readings and such have really settled down nicely. It is making a difference in the internal passive balancing as well as it reads values more sensibly. At present I am pushing 135A charge into the bank and eagle eyeing it.
I was also sent the ISO Board adapter to put between the DCC & BMS for (+) line Operation. I have not installed those at this time as I am wired to use the DCC on the NEG line per the original instructions as provided by Jason. I may test this when I assemble the next pack to go into place, as my LFP bank is production, so I can't / won't futz much with it. Ain't broke don't fix it. It also means cutting up more of my 4/0 cabling and crimping on more lugs and to be honest, I've had to spend Far More on wire than I ever intended to with all the changes.
@Cal, if you want, I can do some quicky tests with a DMM if you specify what exactly you'd like to see... step-by-step instructions. The current charge run on the bank will run another 3.5-4.0 hours yet.... I bottomed the whole bank to just tickling 0% SOC on all packs, prior to this charge run. Once this part is done (the LFP's), I'll be running a Deep Charge on my FLA Bank for 4 hours, so the day is accounted for.
BTW: Using BMS8T-300's with 1st issue 300A DCC's on the Negative Line after the Shunt. (Batt to Shunt to DCC to Common DC Busbar and out)
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I was also sent the ISO Board adapter to put between the DCC & BMS for (+) line Operation. I have not installed those at this time as I am wired to use the DCC on the NEG line per the original instructions as provided by Jason. I may test this when I assemble the next pack to go into place, as my LFP bank is production, so I can't / won't futz much with it. Ain't broke don't fix it. It also means cutting up more of my 4/0 cabling and crimping on more lugs and to be honest, I've had to spend Far More on wire than I ever intended to with all the changes.
@Cal, if you want, I can do some quicky tests with a DMM if you specify what exactly you'd like to see... step-by-step instructions. The current charge run on the bank will run another 3.5-4.0 hours yet.... I bottomed the whole bank to just tickling 0% SOC on all packs, prior to this charge run. Once this part is done (the LFP's), I'll be running a Deep Charge on my FLA Bank for 4 hours, so the day is accounted for.
BTW: Using BMS8T-300's with 1st issue 300A DCC's on the Negative Line after the Shunt. (Batt to Shunt to DCC to Common DC Busbar and out)
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Unfortunately the easiest way to run this test is to open the two fault wires coming from BMS, going to DCC. Once the wires are cut, insert a toggle switch in the two locations to complete the circuit again. Now you can simulate an over voltage or under voltage situation by opening the switch.
While the DCC is conducting current (either charge or discharge), measure the voltage drop across the DDC as I described in my previous post. You'll be measuring a voltage drop that might be less than 0.1V. The greater the current the greater the voltage drop. Need to record voltage drop and current.
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Ohh my, I'm not into cutting wires and disassembling the working system for this. This is powering my home and it is -22C outside right now, no power != an option.
You would only be non-operational for a minute, until the toggle switch is installed. Then another minute after test is complete to remove switch and re-solder wires together & insulate exposed solder connection.
Don't need to cut fault wires for a partial test. You can place cell temperature sensor in ice water. You should have plenty of that. The BMS will throw an over voltage fault (disabling charging). Apply a sizable load current and measure voltage drop across DDS.
You just can't measure how the DDS reacts to a under voltage fault.
Don't need to cut fault wires for a partial test. You can place cell temperature sensor in ice water. You should have plenty of that. The BMS will throw an over voltage fault (disabling charging). Apply a sizable load current and measure voltage drop across DDS.
You just can't measure how the DDS reacts to a under voltage fault.
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Hahaha.. NOT. That would mean disassembling battery cases which have the cells compressed into them, tearing the packs apart to extract the sensors from between the cells is not happening. I have extra wires harness bits that I could make a replacement "wireset" with switches IF I had spare switches which I don't and those are 45 minutes 1-way away. The LFP bank is now at 27.5V and still climbing, so not stopping that till it's done. The saturation point should be reached within the hour, after which time, I'll give it 30-45 minutes for Topping then I have to flip over to Lead Bank Charging.
Maybe next time.
PS: Having 7 Days of Live Reserve is great BUT can be a PITA at some times.... More Panels & SCC in spring, seems like I just don't have a choice now.... especially after the next 280 goes online.
Is the ambient temp sensor easier to get too? I believe a large temperature difference will also disable charging. Do you still have the cables from the defective BMS? You could swap out the sensors and get easy access.
Or, anybody else up the the challenge?
Or, anybody else up the the challenge?
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
Cal, if you look at my "About my System" page, you may realize that for me it's just not a simple task anymore. Those pictures are "close" to what's there now, it got a wee bit more complex and interconnected.
I will only have one more opportunity to rearrange things once the next pack is ready & by then I'll also have to decide what to do about the pair of 174's (which came originally as 1, 24V/350AH pack with paralleled used cells, that I may have to put back into paralleled cell config.
I will only have one more opportunity to rearrange things once the next pack is ready & by then I'll also have to decide what to do about the pair of 174's (which came originally as 1, 24V/350AH pack with paralleled used cells, that I may have to put back into paralleled cell config.
