Dalbon
New Member
Have this in the cart but really don't see any solar panels that make sense to purchase with this unit. Does SS only sell 10 panels at a time? What's a good panel solution to *almost* max the input for 1 inverter?
A string of 10 or 11 of the Canadian Solar 400w or 390w panels? They seem to reasonably priced to.Have this in the cart but really don't see any solar panels that make sense to purchase with this unit. Does SS only sell 10 panels at a time? What's a good panel solution to *almost* max the input for 1 inverter?
It’s very useful to some, like me that’s using the PV input for a high voltage battery (~375 VDC). ? Everyone has their own use case and budgetary constraints.On the running with just pv it really isn't usefully to be honest. I have done it with my tp6048 but not from by choice. I ran with just grid and pv for a long time before getting a battery.
When the power goes out from the grid it runs on pv but since that only works while the suns up and clouds cause brown outs I can't see it really being useful other than the coolness factor of seeing it do it which wears off fast![]()
@pvgirl
I appreciate the pointers. I did see that running te inverter without a battery itself, is supported.. and that is a great first step in answering my question.
However, I did clarify to say.. "PV only". (ie, no batteries and no AC input from generator or grid)
The two sections you reference clearly shows that I can set "battery" to "no", and operate it. However, as seen in the screenshot from @Zapper77 above, There is this quote:
"The 6000XP can use energy from PV, Grid, or batteries for powering the output. However, not all the sources are required. In an off-grid situation, the inverter can be used with just batteries and solar as the energy source.<br /> The 6000XP can also be used with just battery and grid. This is useful for power backup or load shifting without the expense of the PV modules. In other configurations, the inverter can operate with no batteries and just use PV and Grid. In this configuration the inverter will power from the PV as long as the PV is providing adequate power. If the PV power fall below the demand of the load, the unit will switch to powering completely from the Grid."
When reading that, and seeing phrases like "just battery and solar" or "just battery and grid", or "no batteries, just PV and grid", starts to give the impression that you'd need 2 of the 3 inputs. Specifically, I'm pointing out that they are not making the claim that it can use any single input alone for operation. They specifically mention a combination of 2 inputs.. repeatedly. This is the part that gives me pause. I would think that if it could operate from any one, or multiple inputs.. it'd be a much simpler statement to write than to give multiple examples. ie, "This inverter can work with any single power source, or any combination of power sources".
Does that make sense?
Considering how fast they discontinued these inverters, I think it would make sense. They obviously knew there were hardware deficiencies and decided to remove them from their lineup.@Markus_EG4 Would there be any discount or treade off for the costmers that bought the 6000ex? I know that for the 18k there is.
It sounds like it will do exactly what you want.This part is slightly more specific in the manual under the settings:
"PV Grid Off: If the customer wants the system to have Off-Grid functionality without
installing any batteries, please enable PV Grid Off. Please note, in this situation the Off-
Grid energy is supplied by solar and is not stable. We suggest the customer install
battery/batteries to keep the inverter output voltage stable if they want to have Off-Grid
function. (Allows system to access the Off-Grid mode when only solar input is available
without battery storage). Note: It is not recommended to run the system without battery
backup."
It seems to imply that it can run PV only with no battery or grid, and it's suggesting that this configuration is unstable (no sun, no power).
Nice! Was the compressor tank full or empty?
Exactly what I was thinking. Being a 6000ex user I would.definetly jump on a upgrade kind of deal. @SignatureSolarJamesConsidering how fast they discontinued these inverters, I think it would make sense. They obviously knew there were hardware deficiencies and decided to remove them from their lineup.
The 6000 ex issues of dirty power, lights flickering, computer UPS tripping. etc still exist and no resolution has been made with all the firmware updates to date.
It was prob 1/4 or 1/2 full I dont know exactly we just got it set back up, We used it at RE+ with the 18k.Nice! Was the compressor tank full or empty?
Was all that beeping in the background voltronic inverters crying?
This 6000XP really does look like a winner!It was prob 1/4 or 1/2 full I dont know exactly we just got it set back up, We used it at RE+ with the 18k.
Thanks! What shortcomings are you referring to exactly? All of my large loads are 240v and even those rarely get above 3000w. Im new to the solar "scene" though so Im still learning and am probably missing something in my "math".I had a single 6000xp running my house for 3 days straight. No issues. But realize the limitations of a single 6k watt unit.
Here is a single leg running 2,700 watts and zero on leg 2.
View attachment 174120
Multiple 240v loads.Thanks! What shortcomings are you referring to exactly? All of my large loads are 240v and even those rarely get above 3000w. Im new to the solar "scene" though so Im still learning and am probably missing something in my "math".
An oven, cooktop, dryer, water heater, etc.. could all probably hit 3000 watts per leg each.Thanks! What shortcomings are you referring to exactly? All of my large loads are 240v and even those rarely get above 3000w. Im new to the solar "scene" though so Im still learning and am probably missing something in my "math".
My electric oven hits 3000W when the element is on but that’s at 240VAC (meaning 1500W or 12.5A on each leg…).An oven, cooktop, dryer, water heater, etc.. could all probably hit 3000 watts per leg each.
My electric oven and stove top will pull 10,000 watts when all heating elements are on.Multiple 240v loads.
It will definitely be a relief.I can’t believe that we all overlooked the main feature of this inverter!!!!!
@timselectric doesn’t have to correct the name of it nonstop. Only when the @42OhmsPA of the world insult it by referring to it as an EX and not an XP
My electric dryer pulls 2500 watts per leg when it runs. Water heater uses an easy 2200 watts per leg when it kicks on. I guess it can run most of these items solo, certainly not the whole slew of them at once.. which frequently happens.My electric oven hits 3000W when the element is on but that’s at 240VAC (meaning 1500W or 12.5A on each leg…).
Range, water heater and dryer are all gas…
Buy a lithium replacement battery for your UPS.Bummer part when paralleling these inverters is it looks like we lose the UPS mode, at least fast enough for computers. I would have to use one all by its lonesome on key circuits for my computers. Would have been nice to just parallel them all up, but I gather the switching delay in parallel is probably something all these HF inverters suffer from in parallel.
Has anybody found a nice little UPS or solar gen that they like that uses lifepo4s and is just about the right size for 500-1000 watt PC that switches fast enough under load? I'm sick of AGMS and swapping them out every couple years.
I was only replying to somebody that was asking why something larger was needed. Post 387.I am shocked that a small inverter can't run multiple large loads at the same time! If only larger or parallel inverters were available.
Do we think a lifepo4 is going to appreciate being put on a permanent float voltage meant for an AGM, with no load ever being run on it because the battery is rarely ever used? Also, a lifepo4 of the necessary size isn't likely to fit in the small UPS cases meant for AGM batteries.Buy a lithium replacement battery for your UPS.