diy solar

diy solar

New Daly "Smart" BMS w/ Communication. (80-250A)

…so the secret to running parallel BMS units is easy. Set your external devices (loads/chargers) to just under the ratings for one of the battery packs. That way, if (in my case), 3 of my 4 packs go into error (very unlikely) the charge/discharge current values are still good for the remaining single pack. Surprisingly, all packs have kept in sync 99% of the time. If one pack does cutout, I am careful to make sure an alarm informs me so I can get it back online quickly- so I don’t have to do a rebalance. Maybe it’s happened twice in 15 months (and thats because I charged at too higher voltage during some experimentation).

The biggest thing that keeps the Daly/lifepo4’s happy is keeping well within any top/bottom values you set. Work to battery limits and expect a few blackouts…

Thanks for this - but I was referring to posts from those saying multiple smart daly bms units simply WON'T work together, and stating that Daly themselves have stated multiple BMSs in parallel is not supported:


I was assuming that's why THIS was then marketed, but I'm curious to know if it's absolutely required, or if others are running 3-4 Daly smart BMS packs in parallel with no issue.
 
I'm pretty sure all/most of Daly Smart BMS units come with the same defaults - for my 250amp unit I had to raise those numbers from 120 to 125 (charge) and 250 discharge.

@Dforster @ken morgan - it sounds like you guys both have multiple packs, each with their own Daly BMS, paralleled together? I heard problems with paralleling multiple daly bms units UNLESS you pay more for their BMS with parallel units, but I'm very curious to hear if this is just marketing BS from those who actually have 3 or 4 units in parallel together. Let me know, thanks!
When I ordered mine it was under the premise of the possibility of paralleling them as I had not decided between 1p16s x 2 or 2p16s x 1. I ordered two units. it would work either way in one case giving me a spare.

Initially I was 2p16s and had a spare. when I expanded the pack 4 months later i ordered two more BMS as by then I had fried one via the adventures of getting a DALY to turn on. The second original one would die exactly 1 week after my new batteries and (planned on spare BMS's) arrived. it died from a lightening strike that took out the control boards on my inverter as well.

another 6 months of mucking about and I am now a 1p16s x 4 system with one spare bms. all my BMS's were ordered as a 48 volt "smart BMS" which at that time they asked me 16s or 17s. I chose 16 as it would be easier to make packs with.

I do not nor have I used the Parallel unit that you linked

mine work fine in parallel you must top balance, and all packs must be at 100% Charge, with the BMS's meter set to 100 percent. after that i sometimes get variances between packs but by the end of the day they are all at 100% again and then start on the discharge cycle at night. come morning time one pack might be at 80%, one might be at 90% and the other two sit in the middle at 84, 85 or 86%.

I see this as inconsistency in the batteries not as a BMS issue. (64 used calb second life cells)
 
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Ken, ditto with my 4 packs. As long as you are sensible with charge/discharge currents the batteries work fine together. When my inverters click off because the cells have reached my cut off voltage, all four batteries quickly level off any small voltage changes and within 20 mins or so they are all identical voltage again.

When I purchased my Daly’s I asked for the RS232 port to be made useable (adds about £20 to each units cost). So I have the battery level meter, BT dongle, NTC battery thermostat and RS232 all working together. I have added a raspberry pi pc to each pack to read the RS232 and then send the Daly data to a web page. I can now see all four battery packs data (down to single cell level) and monitor input versus output to easily check performance.
 
Ken, ditto with my 4 packs. As long as you are sensible with charge/discharge currents the batteries work fine together. When my inverters click off because the cells have reached my cut off voltage, all four batteries quickly level off any small voltage changes and within 20 mins or so they are all identical voltage again.

When I purchased my Daly’s I asked for the RS232 port to be made useable (adds about £20 to each units cost). So I have the battery level meter, BT dongle, NTC battery thermostat and RS232 all working together. I have added a raspberry pi pc to each pack to read the RS232 and then send the Daly data to a web page. I can now see all four battery packs data (down to single cell level) and monitor input versus output to easily check performance.
Nice I am not IOT smart enough to go that far, though I wish I was savy enough to do it. I just use the BT dongle and it’s all good to go
 
Get a pi (a model 3 is fine and cheaper), download the free card imager from the official raspberry pi web site, image the card (with free latest OS (Buster I think), really easy, pi web site written for all ages and non tech people tells you how to do. Then get this free software for the pi and run (from desktop on pi (so easy), can be set to auto run on reboot https://github.com/njfaria/dalylog. Daly BMS connects to pi with either UART/ RS 232 to USB cable (buy from Daly, not expensive). https://github.com/njfaria/dalylog
 
Get a pi (a model 3 is fine and cheaper), download the free card imager from the official raspberry pi web site, image the card (with free latest OS (Buster I think), really easy, pi web site written for all ages and non tech people tells you how to do. Then get this free software for the pi and run (from desktop on pi (so easy), can be set to auto run on reboot https://github.com/njfaria/dalylog. Daly BMS connects to pi with either UART/ RS 232 to USB cable (buy from Daly, not expensive). https://github.com/njfaria/dalylog
yep speaking greek to me.. want a couple of bearings or shafts made from scratch to order for you project? I have a bridgeport combo i do small order stuff on, down to the .001"
 
Looking for a BMS that can be programmed to limit charge rate. Do all of the Daly BMS with UART have that programmable capability?
 
Any Daly BMS that has a UART interface can take the Bluetooth dongle required to connect to the phone/pad app. You can also use the correct interface to USB lead/Windows software to program the unit, but the app is more straightforward. Once correctly programmed, you can connect the USB pc programming lead to a cheap raspberry pi/free software and read the BMS levels into an MQTT database and hence lots of home control programs. At the time of ordering you can specify a BMS with all four interfaces active (NTC ((temp), UART, RS232 and PowerBoard)), this gives maximum flexibility in using the BMS over longer periods of time.
 
Does anyone have experience pushing the 500a BMS to its limits? I'm building a 36v forklift battery that burst peaks to 450a, heavy loads/full throttle at 400a, and average use 300a+. It is 2P12S using EVE cells so I could instead buy 2 of the 500a BMS but obviously I would like to avoid that if I can. 36v is a pain point for chargers and BMS's. My options are limited.
 
I feel any more than 200a on a mosfet based BMS is a little too much. At minimum if you want 500a, then I would split the pack and use 2x 250a BMS.
 
After 3 years of non stop use, my 100A 4S BT DALY has intermittent shut down issues. It just happens randomly with no errors, no matter the current drawn or temperature. Anybody has any issues with long term use of this BMS?
 
Does anyone have experience pushing the 500a BMS to its limits? I'm building a 36v forklift battery that burst peaks to 450a, heavy loads/full throttle at 400a, and average use 300a+. It is 2P12S using EVE cells so I could instead buy 2 of the 500a BMS but obviously I would like to avoid that if I can. 36v is a pain point for chargers and BMS's. My options are limited.
As others have mentioned, you need a contactor BMS. I would build two separate batteries and parallel them. Below is an example that only goes to 300 amps.

 
After 3 years of non stop use, my 100A 4S BT DALY has intermittent shut down issues. It just happens randomly with no errors, no matter the current drawn or temperature. Anybody has any issues with long term use of this BMS?
I replaced mine. That fixed all problems.
 
I feel any more than 200a on a mosfet based BMS is a little too much. At minimum if you want 500a, then I would split the pack and use 2x 250a BMS.
I would go one step further and use a contactor. FETs have a propensity to fail closed and that can mean a problem on any thing with a throttle. That is why EVs use contactors.
As others have mentioned, you need a contactor BMS. I would build two separate batteries and parallel them. Below is an example that only goes to 300 amps.

Great information, thanks. I'll research the contactor option and the linked BMS.
 
Looking for a BMS that can be programmed to limit charge rate. Do all of the Daly BMS with UART have that programmable capability?
The BMS doesn't limit charge current. What you do is place something (such as a raspberry pi) in between the bms and the charger (assuming the charger is a smart one (Victron is an example), which instructs the charger to throttle the current.

Now I might be running a Batrium on my house battery, but its the same concept. The batrium (in your case Daly) feeds a raspberry pi running the victron Venus image, this then talks to a Smart Solar 150/35, which gets told to reduce charging current when the cells are balancing, or stop charging completely and just supply the load when the batteries are full. This means if my load is drawing 4 amps, the charger will deliver 4 amps, thus supporting the load and keeping the battery full until sundown.

Yes there are drivers to make the Victron Venus software understand "Daly" speak.

Likewise, to protect my battery I have the software shut off the inverter when the battery is down to 10%, and send an alert (push notification when its down to 20%. The DC loads are so small they won't completly drain the battery (router, modem). When this does happen anyone on a desktop gets turned off, and it's time to switch to laptops, tablets or phones on WiFi. This is another indicator as the wifi is called "Low Battery WiFi" and only becomes active when the battery is low. I also have an emergency power switch that will override the software and allow the batteries to drain to 2.7V p/c.

Apart from testing, I have never reached 20% on my batteries, and only seen the system warn me a few times, all during testing.

My switch is a big 24 port 10GbE uplink mains powered POE+ thing, so when it goes down, so does the main wifi, as its powered over POE.
 
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The BMS doesn't limit charge current. What you do is place something (such as a raspberry pi) in between the bms and the charger (assuming the charger is a smart one (Victron is an example), which instructs the charger to throttle the current.

Now I might be running a Batrium on my house battery, but its the same concept. The batrium (in your case Daly) feeds a raspberry pi running the victron Venus image, this then talks to a Smart Solar 150/35, which gets told to reduce charging current when the cells are balancing, or stop charging completely and just supply the load when the batteries are full. This means if my load is drawing 4 amps, the charger will deliver 4 amps, thus supporting the load and keeping the battery full until sundown.

Yes there are drivers to make the Victron Venus software understand "Daly" speak.

Likewise, to protect my battery I have the software shut off the inverter when the battery is down to 10%, and send an alert (push notification when its down to 20%. The DC loads are so small they won't completly drain the battery (router, modem). When this does happen anyone on a desktop gets turned off, and it's time to switch to laptops, tablets or phones on WiFi. This is another indicator as the wifi is called "Low Battery WiFi" and only becomes active when the battery is low. I also have an emergency power switch that will override the software and allow the batteries to drain to 2.7V p/c.

Apart from testing, I have never reached 20% on my batteries, and only seen the system warn me a few times, all during testing.

My switch is a big 24 port 10GbE uplink mains powered POE+ thing, so when it goes down, so does the main wifi, as its powered over POE.
Nice setup!

In a nutshell, if you want more Control then the high voltage setting on the MPPT, low voltage setting of the inverter and BMS, you need to spend some serious money.

There are high quality components like Victron who can give the correct information and help making the right instruction set.

If the Eve cells from alibaba/AliX are worth this, can be a different discussion as more and more people find out that their "Grade A" is more like a B or C or D...

2 years ago the real grade A were +$300, and our price was around $75...
(280AH eve)

That should have given some indication.?

Those probably won't last 15-20 years, even with the amazing finetuning that you did.

Compared to lead acid, longer life (for me living in hot Thailand), no fumes (unless fire ??) more efficient charge and discharge, a lot more usable capacity (DOD)...

Even with 5 years the Alibaba batteries where good value for the money.

I hope they last double of that.

For those "cheap" batteries, you might better put the money aside instead of investment in Victron to better control the battery.
As it probably won't make any difference for how long you can use.
(With correct settings in inverter and MPPT)

That is, if this would be the only reason to buy it.

There are many good reasons to buy Victron, and it probably will outlast the battery.
 
Is it just me having trouble with the smart bms app?

The only screen I can see is this one below, instead of the normal display which allows you to connect via Bluetooth and see the voltages, etc
B03CCA6A-76C2-4D8A-BF37-3C93EFCA8242.png
 
Is it just me having trouble with the smart bms app?

The only screen I can see is this one below, instead of the normal display which allows you to connect via Bluetooth and see the voltages, etc
View attachment 117475
They updated the app - select the option that matches your configuration (single cell, series or parallel) and then you will see the option to select your battery via Bluetooth.
 
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