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Eg4 inverter future

Anyone have the inside scoop?
Luck would have it, my cousin Eddie works for EG4. I just got off the phone with him. He works in the advanced research department of resourcing. He said their stickers work on almost any inverter or battery and no options are off the table. He said to not worry. You will have your cheap chinese AIO in one form or another. Power to the minions!
 
One issue with the oversized inverter is that they can come with a bigger minimum size battery requirement… see the thread from that forum member who decided to live dangerously with the XW’s minimum battery size.

48V also doesn’t help with keeping it smol
If I were double conversioning it using a chargeverter, that would be taking the place of some of it's battery.. when there's power of course. It would have 200ah of 48v battery for my first tests though.
 
If I were double conversioning it using a chargeverter, that would be taking the place of some of it's battery.. when there's power of course. It would have 200ah of 48v battery for my first tests though.
I didn’t look at the min battery spec of 6000XP but I’m sure that is plenty of battery.
 
Luck would have it, my cousin Eddie works for EG4. I just got off the phone with him. He works in the advanced research department of resourcing. He said their stickers work on almost any inverter or battery and no options are off the table. He said to not worry. You will have your cheap chinese AIO in one form or another. Power to the minions!
Bet tomorrow Eddie will be called into a different EG4 department.
 
min battery spec of 6000XP

What would a 'min battery spec be? There are essentially three critical specs for the battery.

1) battery voltage.
There is not a lot of wiggle room here if you are using LiFePO4. I have not looked but you might be able to get away with a 15cell battery, but the majority of the pre-built batteries are 16 Cell.

2) Continuos Current.
To get the full continuous power out of the inverter, the battery needs to be able to provide (6000W/.9)/48V = 138A. However, the inverter will still work if the battery can't deliver that. You just won't be able to run at full power.

3) Capacity (Ah or Wh)
The inverter does not care what the AH of the battery is. You could put 50Ah of battery on it and it would work if it is a 48V battery. However, it would drain the battery to zero fairly quickly if you had very much load.

Given the above, The only minimum battery spec is that it has to be a 48V battery.

However, we can talk about a minimum practical battery size. Most server rack batteries can do 100A continuous. You could get away with one of them but if we assume you need the full 6KW output of the inverter, the minimum practical number of server rack batteries would be two.
 
2) Continuos Current.
To get the full continuous power out of the inverter, the battery needs to be able to provide (6000W/.9)/48V = 138A. However, the inverter will still work if the battery can't deliver that. You just won't be able to run at full power.
Min spec on current is what I meant (since the others seem pretty clear to me).

There is a thread on the XW which seems to confirm the mmanual admonishing against using it on a small battery. The folks having trouble on small battery seemed like they knew how to test.

So from that I assumed there is a risk of surge current causing BMS shutdown even if only small loads are used on the inverter.
 
Don't you only get surge ability on 240vac loads? If only running 120vac don't even worry about it.. lol.
When testing a single leg using my 30 amp RV, I was able to hit a surge of 4,000-4,500 watts on a single leg.
 
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Surge can't exceed 5 seconds. If if does, the inverter will shutdown with overload.
> 4,000-4,500 watts on a single leg
Surge can't exceed 5 seconds.
That is pretty good. The most common load that needs significant surge capability is a motor. Most motors will be spinning enough in 5 seconds that the surge will be over (or at least way down from the locked spindle surge).
 
I wonder what the surge and length is on one of them fancy 115v heat pump hot water heaters. I cant find much detail aside from "4500w".
0 surge. Compressor will slowly ramp up when using the heat pump to heat water.
Elements will draw continuous current of rating if the hp can't keep up with water heating demand...
 
I wonder what the surge and length is on one of them fancy 115v heat pump hot water heaters. I cant find much detail aside from "4500w".
Do you know if it has a soft start? If so, the surge is probably not too bad.

A lot of modern appliances have variable speed motors to help reduce power consumption and maximize efficiency, a very pleasant side effect is that it is effectively a 'free' soft-start. Since the whole purpose of a heat-pump hot water heater is efficiency, I would say there is an excellent chance the surge is pretty low.

The video @Markus_EG4 showed was for a 5.7HP 120V compressor without softstart. 5.7HP is 4200W so I would say there is a very reasonable chance it would start a 4500W 220V heat pump hot water heater.
 
I wonder what the surge and length is on one of them fancy 115v heat pump hot water heaters. I cant find much detail aside from "4500w".
The actual heat pump doesn't use much of that power, that 4500w is the backup electric resistance heater. Many manufactures have 120volt plug in models that can plug into a standard 15amp 120volt circuit for warm climates with little to backup heat.
 
I wonder what the surge and length is on one of them fancy 115v heat pump hot water heaters. I cant find much detail aside from "4500w".
The 4500W is definitely wrong for 120V heat pump water heater, there was some confusion between 120V and 240V spec sheet. For 120V there are two sizes, plug-in are around 500W and dedicated can be 1000-1200W. Compressor only I believe (though now that I say that, I'm not sure how these work if installed in a cold but not freezing area and the compressor locks out. Does it shutdown completely or go to resistive. 500W resistive is literally less than a water kettle).

Never 4500W on 120V
 
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