diy solar

diy solar

Just blew both 200a Class T fuses after precharging with a 25w / 30ohm resistor…?

For comparison my Victron Quattro 5kVA which has pretty large silkscreen font size (also another set of - and + symbols under the 2/0 cables as well):
IMG_1414.JPG
 
Even better shot: View attachment 154097

From:

Thanks. Still not great, IMHO. A lot of the gear I have used over the years does a much better job of labeling and also screens a "CAUTION: OBSERVE PROPER POLARITY" warning on things like this.

Looks like there's room on the enclosure itself under these terminals for a stick-on label providing further guidance. Shame on the mgfr. for not doing that. Running away from responsibility (and I am not singling out EG4 here, lots of others do this) by having the ass-covering "To be installed by professionals ONLY" in the manual doesn't cut it.
 
For comparison my Victron Quattro 5kVA which has pretty large silkscreen font size (also another set of - and + symbols under the 2/0 cables as well):
View attachment 154098

That's more like it. And an actual metal "landing pad" instead of the hokey solder blobs and a buncha through-hole plating directly on the ckt. board of the 6000.

What does the back side of those 6000 studs look like? Anyone know?

In my world, ANY high current connection should have enough mass (metal) to be able to dissipate a little bit of heat. There is no thing as a zero resistance connection.

Perhaps I am being harsh about the 6000 - does anyone know of any incidents of overheating/burning up of their battery terms? If not, I guess it's working...
 
@Will Prowse continuing our discussion from the other day, a fine example.

Here’s a better way to precharge that will give you a very good indication of you have a short

That's a nice demonstration. Would be a nice idea if someone would make that into a more user friendly setup that non-technical people could use.. like combining it with a Pro Installer EZ-Mount Dual Bank Control Battery Switch with the bulb and bulb holder mounted somehow with it.
 
@Will Prowse continuing our discussion from the other day, a fine example.

Here’s a better way to precharge that will give you a very good indication of you have a short

Good point. I can't believe people would reverse polarity a huge inverter. Yikes

Maybe sell a 48V bulb with alligator clips and long leads so people have a easy to purchase solution.
 
I found the same type of bulb Dexter used https://www.amazon.com/Forklift-Bulb-Volt-Watt-BA15d/dp/B0046IJTFE
and interestingly a socket that can easily be mounted as well: https://www.amazon.com/Bayonet-Sock..._bxgy_vft_none_img_sccl_1/132-1464949-5005210

I might actually try this setup. I have the dual bank switch as well since I was going to mount a resistor to the switch but this is much better idea as others have also mentioned above to use a bulb but was more convincing seeing a video of it in action ;)
 
Good point. I can't believe people would reverse polarity a huge inverter. Yikes

Maybe sell a 48V bulb with alligator clips and long leads so people have a easy to purchase solution.
It happens. Sometimes people can start a conversation or have something on their mind and before you know it. Boom, reverse polarity.

I saw some comments here regarding the polarity not being labeled. I'm confused on that, I just went out to check the hook ups on these units and it's clearly printed on the board next to the lug. Batt (Pos+) on the left side and Batt(Neg-) on the right.
 
I saw some comments here regarding the polarity not being labeled. I'm confused on that, I just went out to check the hook ups on these units and it's clearly printed on the board next to the lug. Batt (Pos+) on the left side and Batt(Neg-) on the right.
I think it was more not as clear as could be. I posted pic above and the polarity is not as evident on the 6000EX as it is on the 6500EX which has color indication as well as text.
 
It happens. Sometimes people can start a conversation or have something on their mind and before you know it. Boom, reverse polarity.

I saw some comments here regarding the polarity not being labeled. I'm confused on that, I just went out to check the hook ups on these units and it's clearly printed on the board next to the lug. Batt (Pos+) on the left side and Batt(Neg-) on the right.

But TWICE? On the same install?

The studs certainly are labeled, perhaps just not well enough. The fact that we are having this conversation in the first place could be an indicator of that.

"Fix the problem, not the blame."

If the factory won't do it, maybe distributors could. Print an AVERY self-adhesive label and stick it to the inside of the enclosure under the studs.
 
The labeling is fine on the units and easy to read. My rule after finishing the basic wire-up is to take a short break then come back and fully trace and reinspect all connections. My battery bank wiring became very complex with the eg4 install plus adding quad paths to an additional 12k growatt in the same loop as the eg4s for redundancy. I did my recheck 3 times over two days before testing.
 
It is labelled but always better to have it as obvious as reasonably possible in case people are not as diligent in verifying (even though I agree they should be).. the manual does state with a caution to also double check. So this is a serious installer error (who was paid to install it from the original posters comments). Hopefully @dhy4buva can get the installer to correct and verify there is no damage otherwise installer is going to need to replace for free.
 
It is labelled but always better to have it as obvious as reasonably possible in case people are not as diligent in verifying (even though I agree they should be).. the manual does state with a caution to also double check. So this is a serious installer error (who was paid to install it from the original posters comments). Hopefully @dhy4buva can get the installer to correct and verify there is no damage otherwise installer is going to need to replace for free.
Honestly it's extremely careless. For someone to have been paid to install this system, there is no excuse. The terminals are labeled. You're getting paid to do this, take your time and get it right. This is putting the end user in an incredibly difficult situation, I would hope his installer is willing to own their responsibility in this matter and make things right.
 
Whether or not the labeling "could" be better isn't the issue. It is still labeled, and not in some impossibly difficult way to see. The problem is the installer wasn't being careful.

If it wasn't labeled, that's an issue.

If it is labeled, but isn't immediately obvious, then that should be a sign to the installer to pay close attention to what he's doing, not just slap the ring terminals on without verifying he did it right. Obviously clearly labeled or not, he should always double check his work, but even moreso when the labels aren't in your face.
 
I found the same type of bulb Dexter used https://www.amazon.com/Forklift-Bulb-Volt-Watt-BA15d/dp/B0046IJTFE
and interestingly a socket that can easily be mounted as well: https://www.amazon.com/Bayonet-Sock..._bxgy_vft_none_img_sccl_1/132-1464949-5005210

I might actually try this setup. I have the dual bank switch as well since I was going to mount a resistor to the switch but this is much better idea as others have also mentioned above to use a bulb but was more convincing seeing a video of it in action ;)
One can use some bulbs in series instead of searching for a 48V bulb.
 
Part of the problem is that for DC wiring Black is Negative. For AC wiring, Black is Power. If it is your installer's first rodeo, he may mix it up. For an experienced installer, it should be routine.
 
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