diy solar

diy solar

4 AWG wire vs 4/0 AWG wire

Ok lets back up.
You are just integrating one of Will Prowses blueprints into your exisiting rv setup, yes or no?
 
I’m trowing away the cheap battery that came with the trailer and replacing it with 3x drive motion 75ah AGM batteries. Initially the only battery was at the front of the trailer near the propane tank. I’m puting everything inside under the table seats
 
I’m trowing away the cheap battery that came with the trailer and replacing it with 3x drive motion 75ah AGM batteries. Initially the only battery was at the front of the trailer near the propane tank. I’m puting everything inside under the table seats

ok so new batteries replacing existing batteries, confirm?
And the rv system should work fine with the replacement batteries?
 
Correct 3 batteries replace one cheap battery

It should yes. I’m bringing the fuse that’s outside on the frame closer to the batteries and reduce a good 10 feet of battery wire

Cool then I will assume the batteries are part of the legacy system and all should work well.
The only integration between the new part and the old part is the share they same set of batteries.
Now for my suggestions.
Starting with your first published diagram
1. add a disconnect switch between the 100 amp fuse and the fuse box.
2. add a quality breaker of appropriate amp rating between the main solar panel feed and the solar charge controller.

Observations
You will have 2 ways to charge the batteries.
1. the wfco converter when connected to shore power.
2. the solar panels whenever there is sunshine and the breaker is closed.
Depending on how much current the batteries can tolerate you may need to manage this.
IE only use one charging method at a time.

Is that clear?
 
Last edited:
IE only use one charging method at a time.
What does IE mean? I planned on turning off the switch when I'm not using solar.

Observations
You will have 2 ways to charge the batteries.
1. the wfco converter when connected to shore power.
2. the solar panels whenever there is sunshine and the breaker is closed.
Depending on how much current the batteries can tolerate you may need to manage this.
IE only use one charging method at a time.
Do you consider when the TT is connected to the car while driving? I guess this transits by the power centre?

Is that clear?
This is exactly what I needed as an answer!
 

Dude you are killing me.
I can't make these instructions any more clear.
There are only 2 simple additions to your first drawing.
 

OP the picture in the linked post does not look like a fuse.
I can't really say with certainty because of my poor eyesight though.
I'm worried that the existing rv setup is not safe.
I don't trust any of the existing design and implementation based on that one picture.
Also I can not take any responsibility for any of the things I coached you on.
I suggest you get a pro to check the entire job.
 

OP the picture in the linked post does not look like a fuse.
I can't really say with certainty because of my poor eyesight though.
I'm worried that the existing rv setup is not safe.
I don't trust any of the existing design and implementation based on that one picture.
Also I can not take any responsibility for any of the things I coached you on.
I suggest you get a pro to check the entire job.
I'm not asking anybody to take responsability on anything and I appreciate the help. Like I said, this thing is going to the trash and I'm taking everything inside. Anything I have done and will be doing on that new trailer is way better than what the manufacturer has done unfortunately.
 
I'm not asking anybody to take responsability on anything and I appreciate the help. Like I said, this thing is going to the trash and I'm taking everything inside. Anything I have done and will be doing on that new trailer is way better than what the manufacturer has done unfortunately.

If the manufacturer did what was in that picture then everything is suspect.
 
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