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Newer models of EG4 6500ex are built without the bonding screw

One of each model would take up entirely too much space. lol
I think I have a pretty good handle on high-frequency inverters. Just one of the Low-Frequency Split-Phase with Neutral in (Like the EG4 6K) and one of the LF Split-Phase without Neutral in (Like the Growatt) would be nice.

Does anyone have a dead one I can play with?
 
The announcement of these changes significantly alters the grounding and bonding options for the EG4 6500EX. Consequently, the MPP LV6548 & EG4 6500EX grounding and bonding resource I had previously posted has been removed and replaced with these two resources:

 
The announcement of these changes significantly alters the grounding and bonding options for the EG4 6500EX. Consequently, the MPP LV6548 & EG4 6500EX grounding and bonding resource I had previously posted has been removed and replaced with these two resources:

Not certain if you saw this thread, it is wired with a common neutral. I'm assuming both bonding screws in place.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lv-6548s-split-phase-not-awesome.54708/

While it is possible the common neutral is not the cause of the failures, it has to be taken into consideration.
 
Not certain if you saw this thread, it is wired with a common neutral. I'm assuming both bonding screws in place.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lv-6548s-split-phase-not-awesome.54708/

While it is possible the common neutral is not the cause of the failures, it has to be taken into consideration.
That one was definitely incorrect grounding on the load side. Or possibly even incorrect wiring all together.
It blew boards whenever switching to inverting from battery. This is when the AIO engages its bonding relay.
 
Anything is possible but I don't think it is the common neutral. Particularly now that EG4 is supporting common neutral on essentially the same inverter
I went back thru the posts, it appears there might be multiple N-G bonds. Waiting on clarification.
 
I couldn't follow what that article was saying very well. He didn't address what would make such high currents in ground, only some current should flow.

"There is no way to get 100 amps through a 120 volt cord-connected product on a 20 amp branch circuit.
The board did burn. It did take 100 amps to bum the board. Those 100 amps had to come from somewhere."

The 100 amps had to come from somewhere. Through the 20 amp branch breaker? Through the 20 amp branch circuit neutral?
If not one of those, could be generated by a step-down transformer. 1/5 the voltage, 5x the amps to get 100 amps.

"Have you ever measured the potential difference between the neutral and the ground? You probably measured a couple of volts.
To get a few volts potential difference, there must be a few amps of current passing through a resistance, somewhere."

Normally, if you measure neutral to ground, there is a small voltage. If you connect them, there is a small current.
When a 200A single-phase load (24kW 120V) is connected in your house, 200A flows through L1, 200A through L2. This would be a branch circuit hopefully wired in 2/0.

If your 20A branch circuit was also wired to same sub-panel, its neutral would see elevated voltage. Assume the circuit's 12 awg wire was very short, low in resistance compared to the 2/0 wire from sub panel back to main panel. Some of the 200A neutral current flows through 12 awg neutral, to your PCB, through the redundant ground, back through circuit's ground wire to sub panel. Now, it can split between ground (normally smaller than 2/0) and neutral (2/0) back to main panel. Less than 100A flows through your circuit, because ground wire is higher resistance than neutral wire.

You have to try pretty hard to get excessive "objectionable" current in ground. Bad neutral connection on the 200A load, running hot, could do it.

Something is wrong with the wiring in forum member's system, but I doubt multiple neutral paths is the problem. Would help if we knew what burned out.

Isolating the two inverters so they only share incoming neutral and ground for testing (and measurement of voltages between them), then connecting data cable for paralleling and retesting, could shows something. Keep outputs isolated while looking for voltage between wires you plan to connect.
 
I see it as a power generating source with ground loops creating voltage where it should be zero reference. There is potential for large amounts of current to flow. This is really a short distance so impedence may not be much of a factor.

I've worked around circuit boards for 38 years. I'm quite conscious of stray voltages such as induced currents, poor grounds, shorted inputs/outputs, static electricity. Claiming multiple N-G grounds creating parallel paths will not damage a circuit board is erroneous.
 
I see it as a power generating source with ground loops creating voltage where it should be zero reference. There is potential for large amounts of current to flow. This is really a short distance so impedence may not be much of a factor.

I've worked around circuit boards for 38 years. I'm quite conscious of stray voltages such as induced currents, poor grounds, shorted inputs/outputs, static electricity. Claiming multiple N-G grounds creating parallel paths will not damage a circuit board is erroneous.
About the same length of time for me. I've also encountered a few situations where tracking was either blowing a board or causing it to do weird things. That's not the issue with new equipment but in a dusty environment it's always a potential problem.
 
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I see it as a power generating source with ground loops creating voltage where it should be zero reference. There is potential for large amounts of current to flow. This is really a short distance so impedence may not be much of a factor.

I've worked around circuit boards for 38 years. I'm quite conscious of stray voltages such as induced currents, poor grounds, shorted inputs/outputs, static electricity. Claiming multiple N-G grounds creating parallel paths will not damage a circuit board is erroneous.

I refer not to ground current flowing through a PCB (because it has two connections to chassis, but ground currents flowing through chassis (due to multiple neutral/ground bonds) or through neutral or power circuits of the inverter, or the neutral/ground bond. Those are all designed for high current.
 
If you look at the drawing he posted I'd say there is at least some potential for a short or incorrect wiring.
I only glanced at a couple posts. Made a quick and easy conclusion. And backed away slowly with my eyes wide open. (It was a party sized can of worms, that I didn't have time to get involved with)
 
Anything is possible but I don't think it is the common neutral. Particularly now that EG4 is supporting common neutral on essentially the same inverter
I'm the OP of https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lv-6548s-split-phase-not-awesome.54708/ Do you think the internal bonding of the inverters cause the boards to pop IGBT's? If so, I would think that many others would have the same issue due to the popularity of the LV6548's. Is there any other reason that you can think of?
 
I'm the OP of https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lv-6548s-split-phase-not-awesome.54708/ Do you think the internal bonding of the inverters cause the boards to pop IGBT's? If so, I would think that many others would have the same issue due to the popularity of the LV6548's. Is there any other reason that you can think of?
Mine are wired pretty much the same way. I’ve had no issue. I highly doubt that’s the problem. But I suppose it’s possible. I think it’s something else that might be more obvious if we were there to actually look. I’m not sure.
 
Mine are wired pretty much the same way. I’ve had no issue. I highly doubt that’s the problem. But I suppose it’s possible.

You have common neutral with both bonding screws in the units?

I think it’s something else that might be more obvious if we were there to actually look. I’m not sure.
I agree. Fix what is known to be incorrect first.
 
You have common neutral with both bonding screws in the units?


I agree. Fix what is known to be incorrect first.
I don’t have the screw in either unit. But other then that they are wired roughly the same way. I don’t see a problem removing the bonding screw. I’m just saying, don’t install a new board and expect better results after removing the screw. Because it’ll fry again.
 
I'm the OP of https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lv-6548s-split-phase-not-awesome.54708/ Do you think the internal bonding of the inverters cause the boards to pop IGBT's? If so, I would think that many others would have the same issue due to the popularity of the LV6548's. Is there any other reason that you can think of?
It seems highly unlikely the bonding would cause the problems you are having. I looked at your diagram and it seems OK. However, like others on the thread have said, the symptoms seem to be something with the wiring.
 
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